Adrian's car is an automatic.
Just saw this for the first time Adrian. Sorry to see this. Sounds like a sensor failure of some type. Does the cam position sensor (if there is such a thing on your engine) fit in a location that is submerged in oil?
If future towing is needed, let me know if I can help!
Todd
In reply to wawazat :
Yup it’s an auto. It could be a sensor, but no codes show via my OBD plug in dongle.
First off, my signature from the other forum: "I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril."
Oil Leak: Should we call it a seep or a leak? Oil stained engine and $0.25 size 'puddle' overnight, or wet engine and enough oil to wipe off the floor with a towel? Could still be originating from the vicinity of the oil cooler or AOS and running down. Clean it all up, and see if it's a static leak, or only when running.
Starting the car: Sure why not. No chunky bits in the filter or sump. Crank turns smooth by hand?
Sensors: Crank sensor is back by the transmission at about 3:00. Cam sensors are above the #2 and #5 cylinders - #2 is easy to access behind the driver's seat, #5 requires removal of the AOS to access.
AAZCD said:First off, my signature from the other forum: "I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril."
You're a much better approximation of one than I am though!
Would the cam sensor fail with no error code though?
The puddle I found when I got to my wife and the car was approx 2 1/2" diameter on the road. Not sure about since then though as I've had the car on jack stands with the oil pan off and (after letting it make a mess dripping for a couple of days) with another oil pan under there, so no idea if anything else is coming from that area.
One last thing. I had recently changed more trans fluid, as my daughter has run off with my IR thermometer for her lizard cage and I could find it, I guessed at the refill amount, erring on the side of a bit too much rather than too little. I will say since then, before the breakdown, the trans has been working it's best ever, no slip at all. This is the 1/3 time I've done a trans oil change, but as you know you can only change approx 1/3 of it at a time sp we're approx 70% new now
Next? Troubleshoot. Fuel, air, spark, time. Go ahead and give it a quick run... What do you have to lose? (a 1998 2.5L engine) Have someone else start it while you are by the engine listening and looking, ready to scream, "Turn it off, TURN IT OFF!!!"
The oil leak may be unrelated and at best a secondary symptom. The crank sensor does not generally give a specific DTC. It can stall a warm engine, or make a warm engine not start. Check Renntech.org (donate a few $ to Renntech if it helps you out) and the 986Forum for more detaily stuff on that. The cam sensors each have a DTC. I forget what it is, but I can look it up if you get codes.
I still wouldn't write off the AOS as a possible problem. The AOS is best checked by reading the vacuum pressure at the oil cap with a manometer. According to JFP in PA, " 4-7 is OK on a cold start, but 5 is our limit warmed up. " No manometer? If you do run it, pull the oil filler cap off while it is running. Put the palm of your hand over it. Very strong suck or no suck at all is likely the AOS.
JFP is showing "online" at the moment on the 986... you could try PM'ing him for real Professional advice.
Putting the sump back on, be sure to go light with the sealant. No 'snakes': http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/51984-snakes-fun-yard-sometimes-never-fun-oil-pickup.html
Thx. Will have to wait for tomorrow. Off to a car show and fireworks tonight.
OK, I put it all back together and I restarted it. Well, I got my wife to start it while I watched and videoed. It started no problem, no check engine light, it started right up and idled fine, but I think I can still hear a slight misfire. Here's a vid of the start up if embedding thetubeofyou works
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXyUtt5syW8
After idling for about five mins I took another vid underneath. I really don't like this noise. Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn_jO-A_ymY
Well embedding doesn't seem to work so here are the links.
I don't know about the noise, but it definitely sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders to me. At least on the first video.
How difficult is it to pull the sparkplugs?
I've just been back and had a look another 10 mins after I shut it off. Sure enough, oil is seeping out again, down to the clean area in the second vid, it's coming from between the engine and bellhousing.
At this point, it seems to be either the IMS bearing or RMS is leaking. Either way, I think it's a trans out job to diagnose and fix. That will have to wait.
I have a bad idea involving a Boxster engine, an Audi drivetrain, and a Subaru chassis.
In reply to Knurled. :
damn, the wolves are circling already. Back Knurled, back!!
In reply to Adrian_Thompson :
Oh not your engine. It's either FUBAR, which I hope it is not, or it is fine, in which case it is needed for your Boxster.
Mainly I marvel that it looks just like the old Audi bellhousing bolt pattern with the starter tucked up really high, which means that it should technically bolt up (the best kind of bolt up!) and then you'd need somewhere to PUT that device that nature never intended...
Easy for me to say, but drive it and see what happens. Or even better, find someone with Durametric and check your camshaft deviations since you're running it anyway. If they're in spec, then drive it and see what happens.
p.s. Did you try the palm-on-the-oil-filler voodoo?
Knurled. said:Mainly I marvel that it looks just like the old Audi bellhousing bolt pattern with the starter tucked up really high, which means that it should technically bolt up (the best kind of bolt up!) and then you'd need somewhere to PUT that device that nature never intended...
I have heard of people utilizating this similar bolt pattern in a different way, supposedly you can fit an Audi 4.2 into a Boxster...
In reply to codrus :
034 Motorsport put a turbocharged 3 liter on a Boxster transaxle and a 911 subframe, in the back of a Golf, as a time attack car.
I had an IMS seal leak in one of my cars. It ran normally, just dripped oil and gradually got worse. An RMS leak would probably show the same. Here's how it would get after a good warm drive :
After a wipe-down and sitting a few hours it would show right at the bottom center of the engine just fwd of the transmission.
In that car, the bearing was fine, just a bad seal, but I had the bearing replaced anyway since the transmission was off. I have an engine and Tiptronic out right now and plan to put it back in tomorrow. I wouldn't want to do all that work unless I was certain there was a good reason to do it. Are you sure the leak isn't running down, or back from another spot?
A cheap basic automotive scanner will miss a lot of faults and pending faults. A Durametric would be best if you can figure out how to use it. A scanner like an Autel MD802 would be good for codes, but I don't think it does the Cam Deviation.
Any updates?
I’m currently out of town. Hint below. I’ll get back to it in a couple of weeks. In the mean time not only have I bought an 07 S60, but we put a deposit on a 17 MINI Clubman Cooper S All 4 as well, so the whole family will be mobile and I will have all the time in the world to investigate and fix once home.
Current local hint below
Well, I'm back. I"ve been on vacation, bought another car, not the S60 above, but a 17 MINI Clubman Cooper S for my wife and started a new job. Just starting to get my head back in the game now and think about the Boxster again.
AAZCD said:A cheap basic automotive scanner will miss a lot of faults and pending faults. A Durametric would be best if you can figure out how to use it. A scanner like an Autel MD802 would be good for codes, but I don't think it does the Cam Deviation.
So, I take it I need to have the engine running to check the cam deviation? Would something like this work? I have access to this at my new job.
It sounds like an AoS failure a bit to me too which can hydrolock a cylinder if real bad. It could also be timing related where the IMS gear slips on the shaft.
If its a newer Porsche engine replacement with the larger IMS bearing.m, it is probably not the bearing.
I would pull and cut apart the filter. I’d also drop [canoe link deleted] the oil pan straight down, and take lots of photos of the pan contents before disturbing them. After that pull the plugs and use a borescope.
Failed IMS bearing [canoe link deleted] has been misdiagnosed due to a bad rear main seal and vice versa.
It could be a minor pain or a major catastrophe.
{mod investigation: spam account confirmed, de-activated. no confirmation how they compiled the IMS recommendations. }
In reply to johnricher101 :
Strange fist post. Was it sent from a canoe? Actual, on-point information, although if you read the thread I've done much of what you suggest, with canoe links liberally sprinkled in. Strange.
Adrian_Thompson said:In reply to johnricher101 :
Strange fist post. Was it sent from a canoe? Actual, on-point information, although if you read the thread I've done much of what you suggest, with canoe links liberally sprinkled in. Strange.
All that post needs is a paddle.
I don't think the Foxwell does cam deviation, and yes the engine has to be running and warmed up for about 20 minutes for an accurate reading. Given that the engine needs a thorough warm up, its not a great way to diagnose a poorly running or misfiring engine. I'd say give the Foxwell a try and see what it finds. It may get some Porsche specific or pending codes that a basic scanner will miss.
and yes, that's an odd canoe. My guess is that it's improved AI being used by canoe manufacturers that gathers parts from other sources and then assembles them with their own.
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