Dr. Hess wrote: Yeah, WB, works great for single person pump the pedal method. Crack the nipple a little bit, hose end submerged in brake fluid, pump the brakes until no bubbles come out, close the nipple.
ok ... forgot that method ... for anyone trying this, don't forget putting enough fluid in bottle to cover the end of the tube
Speaking of bleeding brakes, I've never been able to get a good pedal on the Yugo, the system is all new, I've probably bled a qt of fluid though it and the pedal is still low. Pump method, bottle method, gravity, tickling the pedal, holding the pedal overnight, its still got air somewhere. Stops scary good, with the pedal an inch off the floor. I neglected to bench bleed the MC, the manual said I wouldn't have to. I think the next plan of attack will be forceful reverse bleeding, filling a 60cc catheter tip syringe with DOT 3, attaching a hose, and forcing that through the bleeder port. Thoughts?
I'd bench bleed the MC first, the manual doesn't say anything about forceful reverse bleeding either does it?
I would have but M10x1.25 Brake tube nuts to make bench bleeding lines, seemingly used almost exclusively on old Italian cars are essentially unobtainable in the USA.
wvumtnbkr wrote: What is teh gravity bleed method? Is that where you crack open all of the bleeders and run long pieces of hose straight up?
Gravity bleeding is where you open the bleeder and let gravity drain the fluid down through the system and out. It's slow, but it usually works. Not the greatest at air bubbles because they can rise in the fluid as it flows down, sometimes just as fast, so it doesn't come out.
The Doc and I are describing actively bleeding. As in pushing the brake pedal repeatedly. The end of the tubing being in the brake fluid in the jar acts as a one-way check valve, every bit as good as speed bleeders or a second person under the car opening and closing the bleeder.
You'll need to log in to post.
