Budget E30 Mods

Just curious: If you had a $1,000 dollars to modify an E30 to be a daily driver and weekend autocrosser, what would you buy?

Poly subframe, trailing arm and control arm bushings. A set of Bilsteins matched to shorter springs (kit was $500), rebuild the shifter.

walterj wrote: Poly subframe, trailing arm and control arm bushings. A set of Bilsteins matched to shorter springs (kit was $500), rebuild the shifter.

I'd 2nd that. Add onto that an M3 rear swaybar, you can get them for cheap. Gives you a healthy dose of oversteer.

Decent set of pads and a flush with ATE superblue too.

Change the subframe bushings and you won't worry about tackling much else on the car. If you're going to do it, the rear trailing arm bushings are right there and you might as well do SS brake lines - there are four in the rear and it's much easier with the subframe off.

After that, a set of basketweaves off of any given forum for ~150 bucks and some sticky tires. Maybe a set of shocks - bilsteins are pretty good and under 400.

Already rebuilt the shifter and did a brake job. Other ideas sound good.

I run the Bilstien pss9 kit on my 318ti.. (basically the same as the e30) and I love it.. even if everyone else in the world HATES riding in the car due to have stiff I set it.

I picked it up for around $650 on ebay.. seller thought it was the PSS kit (non-adjustable)

Pull the dash out and remove and throw away the service interval lights and the bulb for the CHECK light. Maybe disconnect the plug for the check panel.

IIRC vorshlag built a E30 318 for autocross (that was for sale awhile back..) there was a build thread IIRC on bimmerforums...

find that site and start copying what they did?

ddavidv wrote: Pull the dash out and remove and throw away the service interval lights and the bulb for the CHECK light. Maybe disconnect the plug for the check panel.

I've fixed every broken system, and replaced the batteries in the service panel. I don't have any warning lights.

Tommy Suddard wrote: I've fixed every broken system, and replaced the batteries in the service panel. I don't have any warning lights.

Much like the evil in Poltergeist, they'll be back. I used to be a big one on fixing every failed system in a car until I realized some things are just STUPID, like the SI lights in an E30.

I'll fix them one more time, then use black tape.

This is a no brainer but "Tires"

Another thing that often happens to these cars, you get play in the steering that is not really obvious but when its gone - you notice nice crisp turn-in.

Under the dash there is a huge nut on the shaft. Tighten it a little - but do not CRUSH it or it will get worse next week.

If you like a little bass rumble and only have say $45 and can weld (Ive seen your dad do it in pics...), remove 40lb giant factory muffler, buy a cherry bomb with a 2.75 in/out and a 2 into 1 adapter to fit. Bask in the 5lb, free-flowing, dirt cheap solution to a problem you didn't have :)

As additional clarification to my previous response - keep your wheels in the 14" or, preferably, 15" range. I've got three sets of various r-comps in the garage and a set of old Azenis that are all 14-15" and I've never paid more than 150 for a set. Lots of people run 205/15s in various spec series, and will sell you tires for cheap.

Ireland Engineering S3 or H&R Race springs with Bilstien sports. Should be under a grand.

H&R race + billie sports. As I'm assuming you have already done any necessary maitenance or I'd say that first.

subframe mounts, rear trailing arm bushings, M3 Control Arm Bushings. Would follow that.

Apexcarver wrote: IIRC vorshlag built a E30 318 for autocross (that was for sale awhile back..) there was a build thread IIRC on bimmerforums... find that site and start copying what they did?

The suspension setup alone on that car comes in at around $3k. And they specifically setup the spring rates (570/570) to run without a rear sway bar.

Clutch stop tires then sport seats

You will still have money left over.

How much does a course at a "performance driving school" like Bondurant or Skip Barber cost these days? If it could be done for under a grand, that might be the best use of the $1000.

However, having been a GRM reader since 1992, I'm pretty sure your dad has either sent you to one/all of them, started you in karts at like age 3, or personally taught you enough that you could probably teach one of those courses yourself.

I've been autocrossing since I was 8, and been to driving school. I'm trying to focus on the car for now. (I know, I know, the driver is the most important part. Leave me out of the equation for now.)

mrhappy wrote: Clutch stop tires then sport seats You will still have money left over.

It's a 325is, so I have sport seats.

Tires are taken care of.

How do I make a clutch stop?

Also, I'm not sure I want full race springs. It needs to be comfortable for a 50 mile commute each day.

walterj wrote: If you like a little bass rumble and only have say $45 and can weld (Ive seen your dad do it in pics...), remove 40lb giant factory muffler, buy a cherry bomb with a 2.75 in/out and a 2 into 1 adapter to fit. Bask in the 5lb, free-flowing, dirt cheap solution to a problem you didn't have :)

Does this add any power (besides weight reduction), or just make noise?

Sorry, I hope I didn't offend you.

I say springs, shocks, subframe and suspension bushings

Tommy Suddard wrote: How do I make a clutch stop? Also, I'm not sure I want full race springs. It needs to be comfortable for a 50 mile commute each day.

Clutch stop: http://www.bayareamotorsport.com/m3/clutch_stop.html

I'm on IE3's and they are actually pretty soft. I wish they were stiffer but oh well. They are very easily daily drivable unless you really don't like feeling bumps.

PorschesOnTheCheap wrote: Sorry, I hope I didn't offend you. I say springs, shocks, subframe and suspension bushings

No, you didn't offend me. Sorry if it sounded like you did.

lets see, if i was 15 and had a nice ride and pocket full of cash...

yeah, a few parts might be bought, but the first thing that would come to my mind?? ROADTRiP!

Tommy, were you thinking about any particular Solo class?

The factory had some offset front upper strut bearings. They're a good stock-class legal trick for more negative camber. Rennie should have them cheap.

I'd also put a bigger front bar on the car so you're not asking the LSD to do more than it wants. Rear bars sort of help, but also bump you into STX/DSP

then the usual shocks/tires.

The next time you're at the junkyard, see if you can find a car that has the later DE style headlights or convert to H1/H4s. There are some deals on eBay for third-world built H4/H1 lights that work pretty well.