Its for my NB Miata, I have a quick release and I'd like a decent quality wheel, hopefully with something like suede on the grip. I think I want a D shape because of what I have to contort to get my right leg in place, and at 6' tall, getting a smaller diameter would make the gauges hard to read
They're not D-shaped but DND seems to make solid steering wheels for a reasonable price. If you want D-shaped on a reasonable budget maybe look and see what's on Croooober.
Buy a slightly used Momo or similar from FB Marketplace/Craigslist/eBay.
NIB from ebay...$40. Suede sparco 350mm. I assume you have hub it will bolt to
352mm suede omp. $40.99 on ebay. Search " OMP D SHAPED SUEDE STEERING WHEEL". Probably counterfit...ships from china but mine was also. Took about 2 weeks to arrive
I'd be really careful about doing your homework before buying a knock off wheel.. I've seen lots of videos and pictures of them either completely bent or straight up broken with little pressure.
The OMP logo on the wheel doesn’t look right to me.
I have an NRG in our Elantra build and its a really high quality piece. For the price it was well worth the investment. I think it was $129 for a suede 3 spoke wheel and another $100 for the bolt on hub(didnt go quick connect just yet).
They were really informative about what wheel/hub worked with what we wanted for the car and the communication from them was excellent.
Here is a flat bottom in suede for $129. Its got the 6 bolt pattern in it so it may work with an existing hub.
http://www.getnrg.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=155_159&product_id=1573
I will echo a *legit* NRG wheel is always the best for budget that I will trust with my life. Beware knockoff momo, sparco, nardi wheels. They are made of chineseium and will bend at will. A cheap wheel is not worth it if you must make up the difference in insurance, hospital or burial costs.
+1 for legit NRG. Also Grant isn't terrible. That $40 OMP has to be fake though.
Yup, the Chinesium stuff can be terrible for strength and fit/finish.
This is why I suggest buying a slightly used real Sparco/Momo, etc. a Grant is also a decent choice.
Turboeric said:The OMP logo on the wheel doesn’t look right to me.
On a more serious note - I'd probably start with a circle track aluminum steering wheel like this one, and add a Wheelskins leather cover. I've seen this done before, and the result is a decently comfortable, lightweight, sturdy wheel.
to Kevin and Matt, I will most likely get one of the 2 yall suggested, those both are strong choices. Thanks to all
Same question but antique looking ideas in 14" or less using a Miata adapter hub?
The OE Panhard wheel was about 400" in diameter and white plasticky type stuff. I want my new wheel to fit the look but be small and cool.
Here's a stupid question for the ages - I'd love to run an aftermarket wheel in the NB, but I'm figuring by MY 2000 the seat belts and airbag are a "package deal" and the seat belt stretch would allow a bit more "movement" to get to the airbag.
Yes, no, maybe?
Not ready to bolt in aftermarket belts or anything to affect a s/wheel change....
JmfnB said:Same question but antique looking ideas in 14" or less using a Miata adapter hub?
The OE Panhard wheel was about 400" in diameter and white plasticky type stuff. I want my new wheel to fit the look but be small and cool.
You might look at wheels for boats. I know Grant has some for "Classics" but they tend to be more of the billet style, so that's a personal thing.
OldGray320i said:Here's a stupid question for the ages - I'd love to run an aftermarket wheel in the NB, but I'm figuring by MY 2000 the seat belts and airbag are a "package deal" and the seat belt stretch would allow a bit more "movement" to get to the airbag.
Yes, no, maybe?
Not ready to bolt in aftermarket belts or anything to affect a s/wheel change....
No, I don't believe so. There was a period where seat belts had fancy retractors, etc. but that was mostly to avoid adding airbags. Seat belt material and locking mounts haven't changed material or use too much.
That said, removing an airbag on a street car isn't a great idea in the long run (unless its a Takata airbag, heh), but that's a calculated risk you can take.
I'm on the fence about the airbag really. I've been in a car they went off in on 2 occasions and I'm not a fan. On the other hand stats work for me so I know I should keep it.
I keep picturing myself at "the outside of turn X" with a mangled front lip and $8000 worth of extra parts, labor and fees because the airbag went off
Lol edit: mangled bumper lip, from the grass or sand or.....
Not MY lip because the airbag got it. Lol
Justjim75 said:I'm on the fence about the airbag really. I've been in a car they went off in on 2 occasions and I'm not a fan. On the other hand stats work for me so I know I should keep it.
I keep picturing myself at "the outside of turn X" with a mangled front lip and $8000 worth of extra parts, labor and fees because the airbag went off
Lol edit: mangled bumper lip, from the grass or sand or.....
Not MY lip because the airbag got it. Lol
Well, could be YOUR lip, and if it got mangled, the parts and labor on dental work could hit $8k. 
Ill never remove an airbag on a street driven vehicle. If im restrained into a fixed back seat with a harness/helmet and the car is caged, then and only then would i ever remove the functioning airbag. Its just not worth your life for the added thrill of a racing oriented wheel.
OldGray320i said:Here's a stupid question for the ages - I'd love to run an aftermarket wheel in the NB, but I'm figuring by MY 2000 the seat belts and airbag are a "package deal" and the seat belt stretch would allow a bit more "movement" to get to the airbag.
Yes, no, maybe?
Not ready to bolt in aftermarket belts or anything to affect a s/wheel change....
There's a section of belt that's folded and stitched on airbagged Miatas that's not there on non-airbagged cars. Picking out the threads so it releases is viewed as the correct method to "de-airbag" a car.
For quick releases, I like the NRG units with the "ears" on them to make them easier to disconnect. For wheels, I'm a MOMO fanboy and have a collection of them. I'd take advantage of that 15% ebay coupon and get the real thing.
Keith Tanner said:OldGray320i said:Here's a stupid question for the ages - I'd love to run an aftermarket wheel in the NB, but I'm figuring by MY 2000 the seat belts and airbag are a "package deal" and the seat belt stretch would allow a bit more "movement" to get to the airbag.
Yes, no, maybe?
Not ready to bolt in aftermarket belts or anything to affect a s/wheel change....
There's a section of belt that's folded and stitched on airbagged Miatas that's not there on non-airbagged cars. Picking out the threads so it releases is viewed as the correct method to "de-airbag" a car.
For quick releases, I like the NRG units with the "ears" on them to make them easier to disconnect. For wheels, I'm a MOMO fanboy and have a collection of them. I'd take advantage of that 15% ebay coupon and get the real thing.
Ok, confirms my thought. Not sure I'm that motivated just for the bling factor.
It's a nice looking steering wheel anyway, as far as airbag wheels go.
Kits to wrap a steering wheel in leather are very affordable, like $12-20 on Amazon. Suede is an option.
I just saw some made by Redline that are pretty darn nice, and make my stock wheel look and feel like what I want in an aftermarket unit, a nice suede grip
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