Buick Rendezvous 3.4 Manifold gaskets help

I started on replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my daughter's 02 Rendezvous, and am currently experiencing a 'weather delay' (I work outside). Thought I'd use the down time to ask the accumulated wisdom out there if there's any cautions or shortcuts. I've run NAPA Fast Flush through the system and drained it, and started removing the upper plenum when the wind/rain started.

First specific question: What's the plastic box between the coil pack and the plenum?

Anybody?

Photos would be a big help

box - is it about 3"x6" and about 1/2" thick and the coil packs screw through it to their bracket? cause that would be the ignition module.

not sure where the coils are on a rendezvous but on the 3x00 cars they are right on top of the rear valve cover/back of plenum at the firewall.

Use the good gasket set if you don't want to do this job again. If the ones you're putting on look just like the ones you take off, you didn't get the good set. Get the expensive felpro HD set, it should be metal with rubber gasket surfaces.

Take your time. This job is a PITA the first time you do it.

skruffy wrote: Use the good gasket set if you don't want to do this job again. If the ones you're putting on look just like the ones you take off, you didn't get the good set. Get the expensive felpro HD set, it should be metal with rubber gasket surfaces. Take your time. This job is a PITA the first time you do it.

Yes, I got it from NAPA and it's the "upgraded" one (Felpro is their supplier) You are correct on your second statement also. Funny you should mention that, 'cuse I've been enlisted to do the same thing to my sister-in-law's Rendezvous as well. Except I'm charging her...

Patgizz, it's indeed the ign module.

Timely post, this is mine last week, the heads are at NAPA

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/major-chev-3400-issue/19427/page1/

aussiesmg wrote: Timely post, this is mine last week, the heads are at NAPA http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/major-chev-3400-issue/19427/page1/

No one noticed any plumes of steam (I specifically checked for coolant exhaust odor), so I'm guessing the kid caught it in time. Taught her right, I reckon...

1. What's the best way to get the coil-pack bracket off?

2. Do I need to remove the pushrods to do the intake gaskets?

3. What's the $15 pushrod removal tool? (or, who makes it?)

Lyle makes the tool, you can get it on eBay, I did.

You only need it if you remove the heads, and you shouldn't need to do that for the intake.

Thanks, everyone...

Also, if it's been overheated at all you're 99% of the way to getting the heads off anyway, I usually do headgaskets while I'm in there.

You don't need the pushrod tool, just remove the rockers, on the back you'll probably need to take off that coil bracket and the alternator. The coil bracket has a couple of bolts on the back of the head that you can't really see, but you can get a ratchet in there (or a clever mix of extensions and swivels, should you be so inclined).

I had to do my wife's Venture a few years ago. It was a pain. 10 hours if I remember correctly. The best thing about it was the whole thing came apart with three sockets. If the Rendezvous is anything like the Venture, you can drop the front two bolts out of the engine sub-frame and lower the front of the engine. That will give you enough room between the engine and fire wall to actually do some work. Change the rear spark plugs while you are at it. I also did the alternator while I had it apart because the one on the Venture is buried behind the engine.

The only other thing I can think of is the push rods are two different lengths. If there was water in the oil, the lifters may expand and hold the valves open when you try to start it. It took about 20 minutes of cranking to get the wife's van to start. Even then it only had compression on three cylinders. Finally the rest of the lifters compressed and it ran normally. I was sweating bullets for a while there.

Toyman01 wrote: If the Rendezvous is anything like the Venture, you can drop the front two bolts out of the engine sub-frame and lower the front of the engine. That will give you enough room between the engine and fire wall to actually do some work. Change the rear spark plugs while you are at it.

This was a "D'oh!" moment. Never thougth about it but once I did you can actually get to the back half of the engine.

As I'm wrapping it up, one final question: What's the torque on the manifold bolts; and use Blue Loctite, right?

(I know, that's two questions! The online article showing the Lisle tool mentions the above but does not give values)

18ft-lbs and yes

Thanks, guys!