Build a 10 sec car

Start here.

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/everything-ls/sloppyguidejunkyardturbols

'94-'98 Mustang - tons of cheap parts available, tons of used parts floating around, relatively light, and well developed for drag racing

Junkyard truck LS 5.3, auto and big turbo.

AWD cars that are going to survive repeated dragstrip abuse are going to be $$$. And you don't really need it with a well set up RWD car on good rubber.

AngryCorvair wrote: Air to air IC In the bed of a pickup is neat to look at but E36 M3 for efficiency.

im not saying its the best idea but i think the 'truck bed swirl effect' may get an OK amount of air though it

The bed would be a great place for an air/water IC. Not so much an air/air... that 'swirl' is just like an eddy in a river... same air circulating at a low velocity. Not what you need for a heat exchanger...

I would go with an RX7, an 8.8 rear axle out back, a LS truck engine including the Automatic box for a motivation and Chinese turbos to augment said motivation.

Cheap lightweight RWD chassis, cheap drivetrain cheap turbos.

V8 powered 1980 Toyota Corona

NOHOME wrote: I would go with an RX7, an 8.8 rear axle out back, a LS truck engine including the Automatic box for a motivation and Chinese turbos to augment said motivation. Cheap lightweight RWD chassis, cheap drivetrain cheap turbos.

With an auto you can put the stock diff in the 10's and some claim 9's. An 8.8 would be better for durability and ratio options.

Edit-talking about a Second Generation (FC, 1986-1991)

NickD wrote:

Trackmouse wrote: How has no chastised this man for street racing? Alas, I used to "run what I brung" on the streets. Good times, I still think back and wonder how I'm alive today.

I don't believe he meant literally street racing. I think he meant the street race style events at the drag strip, where they don't prep the track and they don't have the time clocks running.

That's what I gathered from the "No Prep" mention as well Nick. They do them locally as well, heck, the strip even lets them do arm drop starting instead of lights. Personally, if I were to do it....I'd find an old fairly lightweight car with enough room to stuff a big engine into. My last mind build for this was a '62 Buick Special with a 68-69 Buick 430-4 under the hood with a nice cam, intake, carb, and 455 heads.....through a built powerglide and a mustang 8.8 out back.

If you happen to have a source of a 400sbc block laying around, dump a worked over 377 destroker into a vega or Opel GT and at most you'll need 10.5" slicks.

A guy I work with went 10.48 with a '68 Mustang Squareback.

His recipe:

Ford Racing 340 hp. long block

swap out the E303 for an F303 (Not sure it was needed, but it worked)

Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake

Holley 750 cfm carb with a blow-through bonnet

a centrifugal supercharger of some type, set somewhere between 6 psi and 10 psi

a fully built C4 capable of handling 700 hp with a 3,800 stall converter

4.11 gears and an o.e. type differential (3.55's would be better, he topped out well before the traps)

stock type suspension with traction bars

275/60 (I think) slicks

Of course now he's sold off that drivetrain and cut up the floorpan to install a 4-link. He's having a 392 stroker built with plans for a twin turbo setup. His new goal is 1,000 hp.

How heavy are single cab shortbed fullsize chebbies? We already know they snort boost like a 2 dollar hooker with a pile of blow. Its already got a stick axle and some good choices for a rear end. 2wd ones go for peanuts due to brodozer tax. Buy, blow, win?

The answer is always https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jav1QRTYCTo

LS miata, add N2O

mndsm wrote: How heavy are single cab shortbed fullsize chebbies? We already know they snort boost like a 2 dollar hooker with a pile of blow. Its already got a stick axle and some good choices for a rear end. 2wd ones go for peanuts due to brodozer tax. Buy, blow, win?

Like this answer. A pickup from the 70's or 80's is down into the 3xxx range if you get a lightly equipped one, less with some reduction. You already have a full frame to weld to, just put a cage in it for torsional rigidity and safety at the same time. You can even chop the top for aero.

WingZombie wrote: Start here. https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/everything-ls/sloppyguidejunkyardturbols

That was fun. Thanks!

I literally meant street racing, i dont participate, but i sure do enjoy watching it. Its fun, and dumb, to watch these guys put down 500-2000 hp on the street, with nothing more than some pimp juice and a big burnout.

But i dont plan on doing it with the car, i much prefer the track.

But i plan on keeping it simple and cheap to see if its something ill like doing.

Roght now in thinking 96-97 Lt1 fbody, Pull all the weight, Cam it, spray it, in a chassis that works shouldnt have problems breaking into 10s. Simple should keep me from having too fabricate much, caise im pretty terrible.

And since its an LT1 car, even with really loud exhaust and a huge cam its still a sleeper, cause its not an LS. Plus ive been dying to get an LT1 back in the garage.

No foxbodies cause that E36 M3s boring, and literally about a third of all the cars at the tracks we frequent are foxbodies,

If i wanted to go REAL fast ill look to boost in the future, but nitrous is cheaper for a quick 150 to 200 hp.

NOHOME wrote: I would go with an RX7, an 8.8 rear axle out back, a LS truck engine including the Automatic box for a motivation and Chinese turbos to augment said motivation. Cheap lightweight RWD chassis, cheap drivetrain cheap turbos.

If only someone I knew had exactly that set up that just needed building.

edizzle89 wrote:

AngryCorvair wrote: Air to air IC In the bed of a pickup is neat to look at but E36 M3 for efficiency.

im not saying its the best idea but i think the 'truck bed swirl effect' may get an OK amount of air though it

Then why does every redneck truck I've ever seen have a pile of McDonalds wrappers piled up in the bed against the back of the cab not blowing out??

Angry is an automotive engineer. Don't think I'd argue with him on this one.

I throw cans in thd back of my truck, because its fun to watch them float about 6 inches above the bed and spin, but never fly out when im running down the highway

Appleseed wrote: Typhoons and GNs are never cheap.

Well, not on the face of it, but if you want a nice interior and 32 degree air conditioning and a quiet exhaust...

Go fast with class.

Or just ask the nelsonnfamily to by one of thier many challange cars and be done with it.

The recipe these days seems to be anything lightweight and RWD (Notchback/Fairmont/S10/FC RX7/etc.) with a $400 junkyard 4.8/5.3 GM V8 out of a truck/van and a large turbo. There are videos on YouTube of a Fairmont sedan easily running 9's with a GM 5.3 and some big Chinese eBay turbo.

A close second would be an automatic AWD DSM. That is, if you can find one at an affordable price. After years of being a throw away because everyone wanted the 5speed AWD cars, someone unlocked the auto AWD's potential and now they're all the rage and in demand... For real, 10 years ago I swapped my auto AWD DSM to a 5speed and it took me forever to get rid of all the auto stuff. Around the same time, I had a buddy who had a good running auto AWD Talon that was a merely a tad bit cosmetically unappealing. He struggled to get $1200 for that car, mostly because it only had 2 pedals... Nowadays, there are lots of examples out there that have easily run 10s on a stock 4G63 longblock with the addition of a TQ convertor and some trans mods, cams and a big turbo.

In reply to shelbyz:

And those reasons are why it is nearly unrealistic to put cheap & LSx in the same sentence these days. Hell, it used to be $1500 for a crated LS1/t56 combo in my area a decade ago....now the trans is more than that on its own, and the ls1 is about 2-2.5x that much.

As the current market sits, I'd rather build a gen1 SBC than an LS. Less expensive and can yield power if done right. On the other hand, I am also not afraid of frankenbuilds using forgotten power plants. Most people don't know what a poncho 350 is capable of.....just needs some parts from other poncho engines.

WOW Really Paul? wrote: In reply to shelbyz: And those reasons are why it is nearly unrealistic to put cheap & LSx in the same sentence these days. Hell, it used to be $1500 for a crated LS1/t56 combo in my area a decade ago....now the trans is more than that on its own, and the ls1 is about 2-2.5x that much. As the current market sits, I'd rather build a gen1 SBC than an LS. Less expensive and can yield power if done right. On the other hand, I am also not afraid of frankenbuilds using forgotten power plants. Most people don't know what a poncho 350 is capable of.....just needs some parts from other poncho engines.

But that's why you opt for the LS based "Vortec" motors that don't have "LS" in their title. Scrapyards are filled with fleet trucks and Savana/Express vans that have the 4.8 or 5.3 variant, which can accommodate the same aftermarket heads/cams/etc as the LS variants. They can also handle 600+ HP without needing to be cracked open.

Here's an example: http://www.hoonable.com/build-a-turbocharged-600hp-ls-motor-for-under-2500/

tuna55 wrote:

mndsm wrote: How heavy are single cab shortbed fullsize chebbies? We already know they snort boost like a 2 dollar hooker with a pile of blow. Its already got a stick axle and some good choices for a rear end. 2wd ones go for peanuts due to brodozer tax. Buy, blow, win?

Like this answer. A pickup from the 70's or 80's is down into the 3xxx range if you get a lightly equipped one, less with some reduction. You already have a full frame to weld to, just put a cage in it for torsional rigidity and safety at the same time. You can even chop the top for aero.

3 figures if you don't mind dents and can stand a long bed.

In reply to shelbyz:

Yup, you're not getting an aluminum block LS and a T56 for cheap, but you can do nearly as good with an iron block 4.8/5.3 engine and a craigslist TH400.

BrokenYugo wrote: In reply to shelbyz: Yup, you're not getting an aluminum block LS and a T56 for cheap, but you can do nearly as good with an iron block 4.8/5.3 engine and a craigslist TH400.

Some of the 5.3's had an aluminum block and are usually just as affordable.