I'm debating on giving up on my current project/toy/nightmare. As I posted last week, the fiat is really hard to drive, and i desperately need to get something that's well sorted out and doesn't need as much work/tweaking/tuning, something I can pull out of the garage on nice days, flog at autocross, run the occasional track day, and be as low maintenance as this kind of thing can be.
So if you had 10k to spend to build a fun cruiser/autocross/track day miata, what would you do? Possibly in the future I'd look at a exocet. I don't care about being competitive in any class of autocross, just to have the best car I can for the money. Also I'm moving down from a crazy HP to weight. So a turbo is pretty high on my desire list. I was looking at the flying miata turbo kit, If I did that I could save some of the budget by doing a electronics less kit (2995) bigger injectors ($350) and a megasquirt PNP ($900). I've already done megasquirts so i'm pretty comfortable with that, and it saves me a good chunk of money for other upgrades.
So what car would be the best starting point? what are the upgrades that would give me the best results? supsension? brakes? TURBOOOOO?
Including the car? Or you have $10k to throw at a Miata?
I would (and did ) find a well prepped modified car and add the turbo, pnp, and other mods that you want. Much cheaper than buying a stock car and doing it all yourself. Check out the classifieds on here, miataturbo, and the other miata forums.
Sorry 10k is the total to buy a car and do mods
You won't build a turbo'd, reliable track car for that money.
I'd buy a VVT car. Add intake/exhaust/header/squaretop manifold and MegaSquirt.
The 949 Racing Big Grip kit. The 949 front 11" BBK and the FM 10" rear BBK......mainly for feel and it ditches some more weight.
Add roll bar/fixed back seats/harnesses, enjoy.
I'd follow bgkast's suggestion in this case.
Otherwise, i'd buy any 6spd/Torsen car, some 15x9s wrapped in 225/45-15 RS3s, Xidas, seats of your choice, roll bar, and a hardtop.
Should be able to do it all for $10k. Add turbo later.
Clearly, Z31maniac and i are part of a larger hive mind.
Buy mine for $5k and add a turbo.
Buy mine for $9500 and add.... tires.
Turbo, suspension, built motor, hardtop, roll bar, etc....all included at no extra charge.
I wish I could buy one right now, but i have to sell the fiat first and then save for a couple of months
I don't have it actively for sale, so... it's not going anywhere. Post a WTB when you're ready.
I disagree that you cannot make a reliable turbo track car for the money, especially if you drive with some mechanical empathy. Maybe not if you're trying to set lap records every time you go out, but you can still have fun at 9.5/10ths. Something which is often overlooked. The Miataturbo crowd seems to revel in breaking things (that would be the hive mind shared by Swank and z31, I suspect) but it's that last 5% that causes most of the problems and associated expense.
FM's "Igor" was built for about $11k, including the car. It's used almost exclusively for taking people for rides on the track, and it's both a lot of fun (a staff favorite) and has proven to be very reliable over the years. You could take a few parts out of the specification and have a good, fun car in your budget. I'd use an FM II (or the no-electronics kit if you're MS-friendly) with the optional Inconel studs, a 3" exhaust, a crossflow radiator and an FM clutch. For suspension, the best bang for the buck is the V-Maxx XXtreme Track Pack. Wheels, maybe the Advanti Storm in a 15x9 with Rivals.
For the street and the autox course, you won't need anything spectacular with brakes. For the road course, you can go a long way with good venting and well-chosen pads. I like the setups with Wilwood calipers, of course, but it's where I'd save money if I had to. Again, it's an area where a bit of sensitivity can play a role.
Does that sound like a list of FM parts? Of course it does. That's because I'm in the enviable position of being able to say "this isn't the best choice" and changing it
Of course, there's a lot to be said for buying a modified car. Just make sure you're not buying someone elses' problem, as they're rarely sold when they're working perfectly.
As others have mentioned you can save some money buying an already modified car, but there are also good reasons to build it yourself. Here's a sample of what you could do:
$4K- 1st gen car w/Torsen in good condition w/ reasonable mileage
$1K- maintenance; fluids, brakes, hoses, maybe a radiator, etc.
$800- hardtop
(You can save money on the car and the hardtop if youre ok with a ratty looking one)
$500- rollbar
$1200- flyin miata suspension kit (shocks, springs, sways)
$400- butterfly brace
$1,100- wide wheels with good tires
$1,500- intake, header, exhaust
Total: $10,500
Should be a fun, reliable car and a really quick local level autocrosser.
In reply to CrashDummy:
I recently bought the exact car you described with those mods (less the intake and wheels) for your assumed initial purchase price. It pays to buy a modded car if you trust the seller.
Sure, that's an awesome recipe, but we're talking about $6700 worth of parts from FM plus shipping to start with. Not counting fueling, ecu, wheels, or tires.
With appropriate fueling and ECU, plus the wheel/tire package you listed (which IS an awesome package, especially for the price), we're at $8900 + shipping. Doesn't leave much for the car purchase.
Of course, shopping around and getting some of the stuff used would certainly free up a good chunk, as would buying an already turbocharged car.
And trust me, i love a good turbo as much as anyone, but if i wanted something i could beat the snot out of day in and day out, track days, autocross, drive across country, i doubt i'd want to go turbo personally. Definitely not if i had to build it with a $10k budget with all new parts.
And i say this as someone who LOVES Igor. That car is awesome and certainly does everything you say it does. I just don't know how repeatable it really is unless you want to start with a salvage vehicle like i think you guys did, and even then, it's gotta be pretty much free.
Just a matter of opinions i guess. You guys certainly have the experience in keeping the car together.
The other thing i'd maybe look long and hard at is the K24 swap.
STR Prepped Miata - $5K. Boost $5K. Done?
This car is a pretty sick start. Address any necessary cooling upgrades, suspension, sell off current wheels. Update tuning solution if you so desire, buy new wheels and tires, inconel studs/locking kit from FM. Go run the hell out of it. Under $10k all in.
http://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale-trade-6/1994-mazda-mazda-miata-turbo-%245700-obo-79253/
Keith Tanner wrote:
I disagree that you cannot make a reliable turbo track car for the money, especially if you drive with some mechanical empathy. Maybe not if you're trying to set lap records every time you go out, but you can still have fun at 9.5/10ths. Something which is often overlooked. The Miataturbo crowd seems to revel in breaking things (that would be the hive mind shared by Swank and z31, I suspect) but it's that last 5% that causes most of the problems and associated expense.
FM's "Igor" was built for about $11k, including the car. It's used almost exclusively for taking people for rides on the track, and it's both a lot of fun (a staff favorite) and has proven to be very reliable over the years. You could take a few parts out of the specification and have a good, fun car in your budget. I'd use an FM II (or the no-electronics kit if you're MS-friendly) with the optional Inconel studs, a 3" exhaust, a crossflow radiator and an FM clutch. For suspension, the best bang for the buck is the V-Maxx XXtreme Track Pack. Wheels, maybe the Advanti Storm in a 15x9 with Rivals.
For the street and the autox course, you won't need anything spectacular with brakes. For the road course, you can go a long way with good venting and well-chosen pads. I like the setups with Wilwood calipers, of course, but it's where I'd save money if I had to. Again, it's an area where a bit of sensitivity can play a role.
Does that sound like a list of FM parts? Of course it does. That's because I'm in the enviable position of being able to say "this isn't the best choice" and changing it
Of course, there's a lot to be said for buying a modified car. Just make sure you're not buying someone elses' problem, as they're rarely sold when they're working perfectly.
I don't go to the track to drive 9/10ths, nor do many others.
And you're numbers don't add up for me. FM II, VMaxx, and a full FM exhaust and you're already more than $7k in and you haven't purchased pads, wheels/tires, safety equipment, bigger radiator and oil cooler, etc.
yamaha
UltimaDork
5/30/14 3:30 p.m.
In reply to z31maniac:
He's probably referencing his shop's cost instead of what he'll sell the stuff to you for.....
In reply to Swank Force One:
I tried to buy that car on craigslist a few months ago. Somebody bought it before I could and has been listing it on craigslist for at least double what they paid ever since.
bgkast wrote:
In reply to Swank Force One:
I tried to buy that car on craigslist a few months ago. Somebody bought it before I could and has been listing it on craigslist for at least double what they paid ever since.
I THOUGHT it looked familiar...
What'd he pay for it?
I know that Igor was built for $11k MSRP at the time we built it. To double-check the math - no-electronics turbo ($2995), Inconel stud upgrade ($79), 3" exhaust ($819), V-Maxx ($815). All published prices available on our site. Total is $4790. Add in the MSM PNP and injectors ($1250 according to the original post) and you're at $5959. Not "more than $7k". While I agree that the total might be pretty tight, it's possible. And yes, Igor was a salvage car. Doesn't affect the fun experience, though.
FYI, not on the website - but we'll sell a turbo kit without the turbocharger. Take off $1k, bring your own junkyard or Chinese turbo.
I don't go to the track to break things. While it's fun having an anvil you can beat on, there's nothing wrong with taking care of the car occasionally. It's the mindset of the endurance racer instead of the sprint racer. I've driven bulletproof cars on the track (that's my goal with the Targa Miata, although the power levels are stressing things in all sorts of new and interesting ways) and I've driven cars that require a bit of coddling. I have never failed to enjoy myself. Coincidentally, I also try to avoid pitching the car off the track, which also leads to both fewer mechanical problems but also less opportunity for writing it off.
In reply to Swank Force One:
Asking price was $4k, looks like he is coming down on his flip price, he was asking $8k for awhile. Sketchy he wants to sell it so quickly...
Here is the current CL advertisement: http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4485547347.html
Reason for selling the car - I bought the car without thinking about it long enough. RWD just isn't doing it for me. I barely drive it, so if it sells for what it's worth, I'll sell it. If not, I'll keep it. It's a manual transmission - 86k - power steering - power windows - power mirrors - ABS - hard and soft top - Flyin Miata kit installed professionally by previous owner, install is very clean. Turbo spools quick and holds boost. Car runs and drives really well. I have (not installed) EGT, AFR and boost gauges. Car has the Flyin Miata boost gauge installed - I bought a matching for the other 2. We can probably make a deal on them. As for price - I started with leaving some wiggle room for people. People take that too far. Price is 100% firm at $6200. Don't bother offering less. I don't need money. I will also not trade the car. Cash only. I will drive the car with you in the passenger seat until I know you're very serious about buying it. Yes, this means you don't get to test drive it just for fun. Email is best, until I know you're not spam.
You guys are painting one hell of a nice picture. I think after I take the mrs out for dinner I may bring this up
Keith, prices from the past are irrelevant. Look at your site now, your 3" exhaust is more than $1000.
Even at your lower price with $6000 you still have THOUSANDS in equipment to buy, clutch, radiator, oil cooler, wheels/tires, brake pads, safety equipment..............even if you got the Miata for free a $10k turbo reliable turbo build isn't really possible.