In reply to captainawesome :
I have a single diagonal Hard Dog-hard top- Seems stout and fit well. Double diagonal is supposed to be better for rear vision. I got the single diagonal to save a smidge of weight. Seems silly in hindsight.
In reply to captainawesome :
I have a single diagonal Hard Dog-hard top- Seems stout and fit well. Double diagonal is supposed to be better for rear vision. I got the single diagonal to save a smidge of weight. Seems silly in hindsight.
In reply to captainawesome :
Hard Dog or Blackbird Fabworx, features of your choice.
So I reached out to another local Miata owner to see if he's willing to sell.
It's a 94 M sport
Wide body kit of some sort that's molded in and fresh paint.
AFCO coilover kit
15x9s?
275 Hoosier a7s 1 used set 1 brand new stored inside.
Bigger sways
Flying Miata turbo kit with a Hydra 2 ECU
Stg 2 happy meal
Larger radiator included but not installed.
90k miles
Poly bushings
220hp rear wheel dyno
Turbo kit track worthy at all? I can get the car in great shape, stock interior, soft top decent, no roll bar for $5k. Trailer added in for another $1k and it looks awesome too.
Someone has put some money into that car.
In reply to captainawesome :
Are you on your way to picking that up yet? Because that's a pretty good deal with all those parts.
It's locked in if I want it. Mainly just focused on what it would take to make it track worthy or if I should keep searching. I've got another FRS I'm considering buying instead but would be a K swap which I fear will add up dramatically in the end.
Get the orange one. If the engine goes pop.. get another. For $5k git'r done.
6k with trailer is a great deal. You could turn the boost down to aid the longevity. If the motor should go pop you can slap in a non turbo motor.
Motor should not pop if you install the brain in the driver. That should be a solid base.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Turbos make me do dumb things.
Dumb as in ignore the gauges, neglect the car and run 87 octane fuel? Even then, this thing is apparently tuned fairly conservatively (that's a 250 rwhp setup running 220) and the ECU has a bunch of failsafes to protect against overheating, overboosting and underfueling. As long as you maintain it and inspect it regularly, it should be fine.
Dumb as in try to burn the tires off it? Well, that's a different problem :)
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Do you have a suggested tuner for this ECU? Sounds like it's not so common nowadays, but with my power to weight ratio for TT a little more juice near the 250 range would be welcomed.
I've got a local guy I trust with Miatas that has switched over to Haltech recently, but would be nice to stick with what's included for this season. It also sounds like it should be fine for what I need anyway, so maybe no sense in switching the ECU to begin with.
Also, big brake kit needed or oil cooler for that matter?
"but I just want a little more..."
The more power you push, the more problems you'll have with transmissions and heat. You're looking at TT and not W2W so you can afford to take a cooldown lap or two. But still, chasing power is going to come with increased challenges. I'd run it for a bit with what it's got until you get a feel for the car.
All ECUs are basically the same for tuning, it's mostly a matter of learning the interface. The one big advantage the Hydra has is the base maps are based on hundreds of Miatas so they're pretty solid.
I'd find out what the "larger radiator" is and deal with that before shopping for oil coolers. You may want to do something about brakes, although I would want to know what's on it. Everything else on the car looks like someone chose to spend the money, so maybe there's something in there. I would expect that the AFCOs might need attention, their upper seals were fragile and I believe the guys at AFCO have learned how to improve their reliability. You can service them at home without much in the way of special tools.
But if that trailer was attached to my truck, I'd head for the local track on a no-pressure day and spend some time getting to know it. Not try to set a lap record, but to feel the car out. Same thing I'd do with a fresh build at our shop.
Sounds like this is the one. It's been in hibernation since we didn't run any autocross last year, but the guy always takes good care of his stuff. I've got a loose time planned next week to check it out and make the deal.
Any link to the AFCO rebuild stuff for a DIY guy?
Also do you recognize these sway bars?
As far as brakes I think this is all that's done besides pads I assume.
The one has a hammered finish, usually the mark of a hellwig swaybar
The last one I had with that hammered finish was an FM one, IIRC. Been a little while though.
Probably makes sense it's a FM bar set. Looks like all the parts he bought was from there from what I see.
That's a pretty beefy rear bar compared to the front. IIRC, FM sells a 1" front and 5/8" rear, which is a fairly "lively" combination.
Yeah, people are all about understeer now :) According to the internet, the handling balance on my car in rally mode should cause it to spin out on the trailer.
But really, our bar sizes are designed for use with a more street-biased alignment that has a bit more rear camber than front - think of it as OEM+. If you run a Supermiata-style alignment with loads of front camber they do make it a little loose. I usually don't run a rear bar on our little local track with that setup. That's two sets of bars in the picture. FM vs stock front, FM vs stock rear.
There is no link to how to rebuild AFCOs, but if you send me an email I'll provide the information. I would suggest their first trip be back to the mothership so you can get the updated components. I don't remember exactly what they changed but it was after we were working with them.
Drilled rotors means you're going to want to have spares on hand for when they crack :) Big brake kit may be in your future, or at least some non-drilled rotors.
Strange, I picked up that car's cousin just before the pandemic hit. Same price, same FM kit, same wheels. I like orange better though
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