SBC in a Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint).
Rad appears to be inadequate, but there is no room for a bigger rad. Maybe adding an engine oil cooler might help??
SBC in a Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint).
Rad appears to be inadequate, but there is no room for a bigger rad. Maybe adding an engine oil cooler might help??
I've had great luck on Oil cooled bike motors in race cars using the B&M boxed version of a stacked plate cooler. Make companies sell the same cooler in there box. B&M while not cheap has always been the least expensive. Use the one with 1/2 pipe NPT fittings and real hydraulic hoses so you avoid failures at the wrong time.
Hoses & Fittings @ Surplus center
I used this same cooler on a School bus as a the only trans cooler. It never gave me any troubles. Bus was orginaly set up with a standard but only trans i had was Allison Auto it out lasted two motors... Hauled my 68 Dodge Dart drag car in it.
absolutely! you need to check out my friends at griffin thermal products, summit is a distributor for them and they have some nice oil cooler units with shrouded fans as custom ready to go options.
Oil cooler has shipped, thanks!
Also going to change the crank pulley. It seems I'm using an 8" diameter pulley, when it should be 7". I'm not convinced a 14% increase in water pump speed is significant, but for the cost of swapping pulleys (I have another or two kicking around), I'm game to find out.
I'm also running a 180° thermostat. "They say" that a 195° will help it run cooler, since the coolant can linger more in the block and rad, transferring coolant better. Since I have to drain and pull the rad to get at the front pulley, I'll try that too.
Following, my new motor will get one .
When running 10/30 on a hot track day I experience some pressure drop. I’m in Michigan so running a thermostat is a must, or the oil will never heat up spring and fall.
akylekoz said:Following, my new motor will get one .
When running 10/30 on a hot track day I experience some pressure drop. I’m in Michigan so running a thermostat is a must, or the oil will never heat up spring and fall.
I thought the premise of the stacked plate coolers was that the oil basically bypasses when the viscosity is high (cold) and pass through, cooling it when its all warmed up. So you don't need a thermostat.
I have never heard that one. It seems to me that you would have to have them calibrated for different temps and oil viscosity. My M car had an oil temp gauge, it opened my eyes to how long it takes oil to heat up, 20 to 30 minutes in the summer.
One time we didn't warm the racecar enough and it sheared the oil pump drive pin and spun the pressed on gear. This of course caused the timing to go way off as it is also the dizzy drive.
Oil that is too cold is also a bad thing, remember that kids, warm your engine well before a track outing your engine will thank you.
Where is the oil guy to set me straight?
akylekoz said:I have never heard that one. It seems to me that you would have to have them calibrated for different temps and oil viscosity. My M car had an oil temp gauge, it opened my eyes to how long it takes oil to heat up, 20 to 30 minutes in the summer.
One time we didn't warm the racecar enough and it sheared the oil pump drive pin and spun the pressed on gear. This of course caused the timing to go way off as it is also the dizzy drive.
Oil that is too cold is also a bad thing, remember that kids, warm your engine well before a track outing your engine will thank you.
Where is the oil guy to set me straight?
What M car was this?
Just curious, it was 77° when I pulled out of my garage this morning. 3 miles in the drive to work the oil temp gauge already said 170°, and this is surface streets. No faster than 45.
'13 135i.
The oil cooler out of a RX7 are excellent.
In reply to z31maniac :
E30 M3, with a stock oil cooler and gauge. I do live in Michigan so my testing could have been on a cold day, but it always took at least 20 minutes to get up to 190. It only went up to 210 in traffic, on a track it was a steady 190.
You'll need to log in to post.
