Amazon keeps recommending them to me, though.
Gotta be better than this:
or these: 
They are the easy button way to add a dash cam.
I would only worry about the gauge of the wire behind the original fuse. If you're doing this for a low draw accessory, then let's go!
That's way nicer than wrapping a wire around a fuse and cramming it in.
They're not pretty to look at but they're quite elegant electrically. Should be fine if both circuits are 15A or less, more than that and I'd start to worry about how much current is being pushed through those fuse legs.
Edit: For the bigger old-school fuses at least, maybe less for the twiggy little newer ones...
You can get 30A micro and mini-micro fuses.
The interior topology of a fusebox generally has all of the powerfeeds on a single rail, so really, I wouldn't worry about excessive current draw. If you wanted to play it safe, you could tap power from something with LOW current, like an existing 5a or 7.5a fuse. Just make sure you have the fuse tap oriented so the power is drawn from the rail side and not the circuit side.
Murphy's Law says that, since the orientation of the device is critical for function, it will have to be oriented in such a way that the output lead is in something else's way 
The National Park Service truck I bought from Yellowstone had a few leftover. I kept them as they looked handy as hell. Glad to see It isn't some rig-job.
I've used them for adding heated seats in 3 cars now and have had no issues.
I used one to add rear window defrost to an NA Miata with an NB top. Been working fine for about 3 or 4 years now.
I have installed hundreds of these, they work great.
I have seen some sketchy stuff, these fuse taps are so much better.
Better than the Spaniard farmer that wired my land rover.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:The interior topology of a fusebox generally has all of the powerfeeds on a single rail, so really, I wouldn't worry about excessive current draw. If you wanted to play it safe, you could tap power from something with LOW current, like an existing 5a or 7.5a fuse. Just make sure you have the fuse tap oriented so the power is drawn from the rail side and not the circuit side.
This is what I've always been concerned about. That the feed for the original fuse's feed wouldn't be beefy enough for both circuits but you saying it's a busbar seems like the ridiculously obvious way to construct it and immune to that issue. Oof.
I bought a 10 pack of these on the jungle website a couple of years ago. They were some no-name Amazon brand. They work ok but they don't fit super great. The blade part is a hair too wide so it's difficult to get it completely seated in the fuse box. The sockets for the fuses were also too small; requiring needle nosed pliers to insert the fuses. It was a real struggle which resulted in breaking a couple of fuses.
Littelfuse and Bussmann make them too but they are more expensive but the quality is much much better. YMMV
Pete. (l33t FS) said:The interior topology of a fusebox generally has all of the powerfeeds on a single rail, so really, I wouldn't worry about excessive current draw. If you wanted to play it safe, you could tap power from something with LOW current, like an existing 5a or 7.5a fuse. Just make sure you have the fuse tap oriented so the power is drawn from the rail side and not the circuit side.
Murphy's Law says that, since the orientation of the device is critical for function, it will have to be oriented in such a way that the output lead is in something else's way
Pete bringing the wisdom and the humor today.
🤘🏻🤣
Do cars have spare unused slots in the fuse panel anymore? It used to be pretty commonplace, but since all my cars are old I don't know about late model vehicles.
Seems legit and sketchy at the same time.
As long as you install them correctly, they are no issue. I always used them with a sub-5 amp load.
You have to install them with the correct leg on the battery side of the fuse. If you dont, the tap will pull its load across the factory fuse and can overload it.
the leg circled in red needs to be on the battery side.
I've used them to hardwire radar detectors in multiple vehicles. Went to add one to my latest work truck this week and realized that the circuit most people seemed to be recommending on the interweb needs a Micro 3 add a circuit, and of course I didn't have one of those.
In reply to Spearfishin :
Ug, the micro 3 fuse. Wtf.
TJL (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Spearfishin :
Ug, the micro 3 fuse. Wtf.
Appears [per forums; not any actual DVM work on my part] that there's exactly 1 ignition switched circuit on my work truck ('23 Chevy), and it takes one of those weirdos.
First i have seen of them, but they have a micro 3 adapter. Wonder if you can rig it to fit a micro 2 for the "tap" side.
iansane said:Better than the Spaniard farmer that wired my land rover.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:The interior topology of a fusebox generally has all of the powerfeeds on a single rail, so really, I wouldn't worry about excessive current draw. If you wanted to play it safe, you could tap power from something with LOW current, like an existing 5a or 7.5a fuse. Just make sure you have the fuse tap oriented so the power is drawn from the rail side and not the circuit side.
This is what I've always been concerned about. That the feed for the original fuse's feed wouldn't be beefy enough for both circuits but you saying it's a busbar seems like the ridiculously obvious way to construct it and immune to that issue. Oof.
For just splicing 2 wires together, had he used solder and shrink wrap I'd call that good.
TJL (Forum Supporter) said:First i have seen of them, but they have a micro 3 adapter. Wonder if you can rig it to fit a micro 2 for the "tap" side.
They're the same terminal spacing as a normal fuse, so yes.
I'm really not sure what problem those double fuses are supposed to solve.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:I'm really not sure what problem those double fuses are supposed to solve.
If one fuse is good, then two are better!
In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :
"Mountain climbers chain each other so if one falls, they all fall!"
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