I've run both on the street, but was curious if the C-Teks will handle track duty? I've read that there are some slight differences between the two for quality specs, but one of the biggest differences being the coating that comes with the premiums. I couldn't care less about the rust since it's mainly a track day/weekend car, and saving $25 per corner does sound appealing.
Anyone here have experience running the white box C-Teks hard on track?
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
That's awesome! Good to know from someone in the industry too, and not just anecdotal evidence. I've run high carbons before, but couldn't tell the difference for street/autocross. C-Teks here I come.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
At what point is the high carbon rotor worth the premium? Heavy towing duty?
Yes. White box cteks here for the last 5 or 6 years of track events. I always replace every 5 or 6 weekends once the surface cracks start to split preemptively but for the cost I have no complaints.
engiekev said:
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
At what point is the high carbon rotor worth the premium? Heavy towing duty?
Yes. Towing, actual heavy duty usage. Lots of GVW.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
engiekev said:
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
At what point is the high carbon rotor worth the premium? Heavy towing duty?
Yes. Towing, actual heavy duty usage. Lots of GVW.
Would they be recommended for both track use and daily use? Or would it be better, and more economical, to buy two sets of C-TEK rotors and swap the dedicated rotor/pad setup for track use only (that may depend on the application I suppose?)?
In reply to engiekev :
For track and daily I would run the StopTech Sport rotors. It's what they are designed for.
I've had C-teks on the stage rally car for 6 or 7 years now with no issues (with HP+ pads). Granted not the kind of heat that a track car puts into its pads but I haven't seen any sign of stress cracks or anything.
Side note: our chumpcar e30 has always run with "the cheapest rotors on rockauto" with track compound pads (replaced after every enduro race), and we've never had an issue.
I think my Sequoia tow rig also has C-teks, but don't really remember.
Ironically, I think the only rotors I've ever had serious cracking issues with were some high-end 2-piece ones I had on my Maxima (which did DD and autocross duty). Never had problems with cheapies. Maybe I'm easy on my brakes, IDK.
I've been using the slotted rotors for 7 years on the Datsun I vintage race with no issues whatsoever. Keep in mind I have 280ZX brakes on a 1600lb car.
I also routinely have the brake and has on at the same time, which puts a lot of heat in the brakes.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
THIS^^
Treat rotors like the consumable they are and just run Simple centric rotors and you're good, as long as you have enough brake for the car.
engiekev said:
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
engiekev said:
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to captainawesome :
I used to be a professional regional auto parts supplier and Centric was my largest account. There is no difference between a "white box" C-TEK and a "black box" Centric rotor outside of the coating. You have to move to the High Carbon, Ultra Premium, cryo, and/or StopTech rotors to get an actual different base rotor.
So yes, run the C-Teks.
At what point is the high carbon rotor worth the premium? Heavy towing duty?
Yes. Towing, actual heavy duty usage. Lots of GVW.
Would they be recommended for both track use and daily use? Or would it be better, and more economical, to buy two sets of C-TEK rotors and swap the dedicated rotor/pad setup for track use only (that may depend on the application I suppose?)?
Swap unless you like your rotors to cause brake vibration.
Track pads and street pads adhere different deposits to the rotors which will cause issues.
Run the ctek. I have for years on my rx7 champcar. No rotor issues!