In reply to AngryCorvair :
Ah. I have heard that big motors make big radical cams less radical*, so maybe something from the bottom of the page is appropriate. Though stock heads and the need to drive to challenge will limit how crazy we get.
*As in a mild 350 cam would be huge and lumpy if it was in a 283 for example.
If I May,
Too Stay with the rockers on the Stock 882's don't get any bigger than a .425 lift cam, New lifters, and really 10 people can guess at what Profile to get . My Guess is a Boat Cam or R V type cam. the boat cam gets on the Torque Quick and stay's there, a RV cam comes on slower( street not water) make s more power but less torque and will allow a higher RPM range but hey we ain't talking Race Motor.
If you want a race motor take that one apart keep the block and crank give away the rest.
In reply to GTXVette :
Noted. We are trying to be realistic. But also trying to have fun. .425 is so small! Really should just run it as is and see but the engine is already out and on a stand...
Stock 882’s can take .480” lift in my experience as that’s how I built my 383 back in the late 80s. And a 400SBC is really gonna want something in the .525” range.
Thanks for the input guys. Cam specs can be argued until the sun burns out but that is not the point here. I think the cost of trading the heads is enough reason for me to just leave them alone. For now.
What about wheel bearings. The brakes will be getting refreshed but the rotors are the hubs and replacing them requires replacing the front wheel bearing races at least. Do I have to count the cost of the bearings? Or can I write that off as safety?
A shade of Grey as Half the bearing comes with it, I wouldn't reuse a bearing.. i THINK IT.'S COVERED BUT DID THEY CONSIDER THIS. Time to re read the Rules.
P S If we continue with filling your Head with bad engine Ideas we shouldn't do it in this thread
In reply to GTXVette :
For contributing bad/dangerous/interesting ideas about engine building I have a build thread here.
Time to re-read the rules for me too.
Bookmarked for neurotic perusal.
So if I relocate a battery but it remains under the hood, do I still need external and driver accessible kill switches?
In reply to barefootskater :
Yes. The NHRA requires that any vehicle with a relocated battery must have a master disconnect switch installed on the exterior of the vehicle.
In reply to SVreX :
Thanks.
How much roof do I need before a car is considered a convertible. Because sunroofs are heavy and also I have lofty weight trimming goals.
In reply to barefootskater :
No idea.
I assume the roof is about structural integrity. Removing the sunroof panel would not compromise structural integrity. Cutting the roof would.
I would also assume tech officials would vary widely on how they chose to enforce it.
My $0.02
Lexan or cheap plastic will fill the hole , I would cover it with sheet metal make it pretty. If you Hull the roof try to do all work before painting it
Y'all are great. Last question for a while:
What is the best way to document a free car?
Difficult question for the Challenge judges!
I bought my project car back in 2014-2015 for $1200, and since then I have slowly been building it up over the years that I have owned it to be a fun daily. Since I have never made more than ~15.00/hour, I have simply been limited in putting more than $2000 into the car per year, and at this point (which I can prove) I doubt I have more than $4,000 total in the car with over a 1/4th of that being in a set of coilovers that haven't been put on. If it matters- before I joined this site I never had any intention of entering it in anything more than a local car show.
So here's my question- for this car and the $2019 challenge, are you focused on overall, aggregate price? Or if I prove that each year i have owned it I never spent more than $2000 can it still be entered with all other vehicles?
In reply to GIRTHQUAKE :
If you have over $2000 in it in total, it's ineligible.
In reply to DeadSkunk :
Darn. Okay.
You just need to sell everything and replace it with Free STUFF, E Z, P Z.
DeadSkunk said:In reply to GIRTHQUAKE :
If you have over $2000 in it in total, it's ineligible.
I kinda don’t want to open this can of worms, because this answer was nice and clean and succinct. But it’s not necessarily correct.
Girthquake, the answer is...it depends.
For example, if you have $4K in the car, but $1000 is in tires, and $500 is in budget exempt parts (like brakes, etc), and the interior (which could be removed) is worth $500 in FMV, your car might be eligible. Or perhaps you might choose to remove the expensive suspension and return it to stock in order to compete.
The only correct answer is that you need to read the rules and determine the correct answer based on your specific circumstances.
In reply to SVreX :
Also technically aren’t $2018 and previous years’ entries still eligible too, even if they were over $2000 when they competed?
In reply to Pete Gossett :
I’m sure that the GRM staff would grandfather them in, but I’m not sure how that is relevant. Girthquake’s car was never a Challenger car.
Any reason homemade seats would be frowned upon?
barefootskater said:Any reason homemade seats would be frowned upon?
It's been done well, and done poorly.
One person made their own reproduction Kirkey race seats. Almost identical. That was applauded.
If it was made of plywood, or a lawn chair, it would be frowned upon.
So I know seat belts are budget exempt, but what are the exact requirements? Our car came with shoulder belts that we won't be able to use due to a drastic change in seating position. Would lap belts be sufficient? We will not have a cage, but if we need more than lap belts we'll need a harness bar, and in that case are 4pt harnesses ok or would we need 5pt harnesses? Thanks
(the math says we should expect low 14s in the 1/4, if that info is relevant.)
You know, we didn't have a rule clarifying this. Here it is:
(Added 3/14/19): Every entry is required to have a seat belt or harness for the driver. OEM three-point seat belts may be retained. If the OEM belt is not three-point, or if the driver’s seating position has been modified significantly, then a racing harness is required. Racing harnesses must have a minimum of five points, and may be no more than two years old. Older harnesses that have been professionally re-webbed, inspected and re-certified within the previous two years are acceptable.
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