Issue: My oldest daughter has a 04 Hyundai Tiburon GT w/@80,000 miles on it. The in-tank fuel pump has recently started to make a growling noise when she turns the key on before starting the engine. I know this is a sign that the fuel pump is starting to go bad. So the question is does anyone here know how hard it is to change? Initial look looks like just put the car on jackstands, drop the tank and replace pump. Any guess how long it will last with the growling? Any issues I should be aware of? She can't afford to have it fixed which means daddy with her help will be doing the work. I've never messed with in-tank fuel pumps in cars before, only inline electric or engine driven mechanical. I don't normally do much more than routine maintenance to the dd's. Now my classics/antiques is a different story, I'll tear into anything on those.
I am going to guess that car has an access panel somewhere inside to get to the fuel pump. Have you looked for one of those yet?
Disclaimer: I have no experience with Hyundai so my post is a semi-educated guess.
There's always the shotgun. If it will remove lugnuts, it'll remove a fuel pump.
thatsnowinnebago wrote:
I am going to guess that car has an access panel somewhere inside to get to the fuel pump. Have you looked for one of those yet?
Disclaimer: I have no experience with Hyundai so my post is a semi-educated guess.
Bimmer 3 series have an access panel
My Toyota 4 Runner ( 1993 ) did not.
Plus it has a smash gaurd under the tank.
How long did it take me? Including fixing the fuel line?
Finalling welding the line where it exits the tank and make the 90 degree bend?
Drain and pull the tank, three times... three days.
NOW, there's an access panel under the right rear seat!
Thanks Sawsall!
Many cars have an access panel under the back seat.
Yeah, should be under the rear seat.
Remove a metal panel and you'll see the top of the gas tank.
On the tank, there's a big, threaded "ring" you unscrew. The fuel pump and filter will come out as a unit once you remove the ring.
You'll have to remove the fuel lines too.
To unscrew the ring, hit it with a screwdriver (or similar) to unwind it (see below).
In line pump wired to the original.. . . Kept a car of mine going for several years. Much better than dropping the tank in the middle of winter when I was working 6 days a week 12-14 hours a day.
electronic access to all the Hyundai factory service manuals:
hmaservice.com
when i did it on my mustang the directions were adamant to use something wooden or brass to get the lock-ring. brass wont spark in the worst case.. (wood wouldt get it done for me, i used brass)
it may be me being a wuss, but that could make a hell of a fireball 
BTW, make sure ALL possible ignition sources are kept FAR away.
Nice and easy with that panel when i did the Troopers a few years back everyone i talked to said you drop the tank it will leak as the tank is two parts welded at the flange the bolts go through so....what to do....
Pull up the back rug and use a muffler cutter and made 3 sided cut peeled up the floor. Bent it back down when done and spot welded it closed a week later after i know it was fixed.
44
44Dwarf wrote:
Nice and easy with that panel when i did the Troopers a few years back everyone i talked to said you drop the tank it will leak as the tank is two parts welded at the flange the bolts go through so....what to do....
Pull up the back rug and use a muffler cutter and made 3 sided cut peeled up the floor. Bent it back down when done and spot welded it closed a week later after i know it was fixed.
44
'Whizzwheel' and then spotweld the floor over the fuel tank? That REALLY makes the guy with the brass drift look like a wuss. 
When i needed to whiz wheeled some clamps to change hoses on a fuel rail, I had my full face helmet on.
Looks like I won't have to drop the tank afterall. That's good news. Just the info I was looking for. Thanks all!!! 
