Cheap lightweight battery suggestions

In reply to Ashyukun:

The battery is just helping the little bit needed there.

Ashyukun wrote: So, in theory, one of these (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14074__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html), weighing in at a whopping 2 pounds and change, would be able to start a small-block V8??? That just sounds nuts...

This seems like it would be the one to have @ 250amps over the 125amp version that weighs less than a pound less and only saves $30. Even on a 4-banger, I'd think the 250 amp would give a touch more reserve for a car that might not fire instantly. I have no math to back this up though, and I'm thinking more for use on a stripped down summer only race car setup, vs. a DD that needs to start when it's cold, run HVAC/computers/etc. Heck my car doesn't even have headlights or turn signals.

Zomby Woof wrote:

belteshazzar wrote: i love my THREE POUND ballistic battery so much, even at almost $300, i'm considering getting another for my wife's car. that's right, i said 3 lbs.

Pff. 3 lbs? I've been using this in my Swift GT all summer http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Airsoft-Gun-M16-4S1P-13-2V-2300mAh-A123-Battery-Pack-/190489045816?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item2c5a082b38 A little more than half a pound and less than $50. Doesn't care much for sub freezing temps, though. It sometimes takes a dozen tries to warm it up enough to start the (12-1 compression) car. This one is better for colder weather. I had one until I accidentally discharged it then used the wrong charger on it. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/200543786531?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 They both worked fine for daily use, but are best for somebody who knows what they are and doesn't have a habit of leaving their lights on.

other than the absurdly small size and weight, i've noticed no difference switching from the OE battery to the Ballistic one. I also run a fairly decent amp for the stereo as well.

Any updates on CHEAP and lightweight batteries. Trying to resurrect that SAAB after a winters slumber the battery is deader than a dead thing under a rock. I'm looking for cheap above all else, but light for the same or lower cost is a big plus. This car will never be a regular DD, just a toy with occasional usage. It may end up being used in cold weather for rally cross through. After killing the old battery through lack of us I guess I need to look at a battery tender.

Am I best just going and buying the smallest cheapest stud mount battery I can find, or could I get away with a lawn mower / garden tractor battery with a tender, or what about the model plane lithium ion ones?

thx

I'd look at an odyssey pc680.

What about battery tenders? Cheapest I can get, anything wrong with this one? http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ or is there a need to spend more?

mazdeuce wrote: I'd look at an odyssey pc680.

How does something like this http://www.gruberpower.com/12-volt-18-amp-hour-ah-battery compare to the Odyssey?

Battery Type 12V Capacity
20hour rate (900mA) 18Ah 10hour rate (1.67A) 16.7Ah 5hour rate (3.06A) 15.3Ah 1hour rate (11.3A) 11.3Ah 15min rate (36.0A) 9.0Ah Dimensions
Length 181mm (7.13in) Width 77mm (2.99in) Height 167mm (6.59in) Approx Weight 12.57Lbs.(5.7kg)
Self Discharge
Current Maximum Discharge Current for 30 seconds: 360A Maximum Discharge Current for 5 seconds: 720A Operating Temp Range
Charge 0°c(32°f) to 40°c (104°f) Discharge -15°c(5°f) to 50°c (122°f) Storage -15°c(5°f) to 40°c (104°f) Internal Resistance (1KHz) 10 mΩ Container Material ABS Terminal F3

Weight 13.82lb's and around $35

Or this? http://www.wholesalebatteriesdirect.com/deka-motorcycle-batteries/43394-deka-etx20l1-replacement-battery.html

Something to keep in mind Adrian. the Odyssey batteries do not like a lot of heat.. remember where the stock battery is in relation to the turbocharger

It compares well? The reason I suggested the odyssey is that it's a known quantity. That particular battery has been pretty well tested by a bunch of guys and it works. Some of the Deka batteries work well too. There is a thread on the corner carvers forum that goes over and over lighter batteries.

I used the odyssey 680 on my daily driver 318ti for years with no issues

Adrian_Thompson wrote: What about battery tenders? Cheapest I can get, anything wrong with this one? http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ or is there a need to spend more?

There's currently one of those trickling electrons into Ugly's battery right now. Which is a good thing, since the Taurus' absolute pile of garbage Autozoo battery was dead (again) after sitting for 5 days in my barn with zero accessory or any other drain on it. So I was able to jump the Taurus with the non-running E30. Five Days. On an 18-month-old battery. Total junk.

Adrian_Thompson wrote: What about battery tenders? Cheapest I can get, anything wrong with this one? http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ or is there a need to spend more?

I have that model (got it from the PO when I bought the Harley). It's fine for motorcycle batteries, might be a little on the weak side for car batteries. I also have the Battery Tender Plus which is more powerful and works fine on cars also.

Has anyone here messed with capacitors as a battery replacement yet? I know you would need a small battery in addition, but it could be really small.

One of my acquaintances has actually. weighs like 2 lbs, and cranks the car just like any battery.

On another note, not liking the PC680 anymore. I don't know when they changed the CCA to 170 from 220 but now it's not enough to turn my motor over (my motor is a bit on the tight side). -Henry

So, I got an Odyssey PC680, it's super light, but doesn't seem to throw out much output!

Checking fitment close to the stock location

Hhmm, I think this may be too close to the turbo outlet to work with only 4.5" air space. Do you think a heat shield would work, or do I need to man up and move it? I don't really want to move it as you'll loose the any weight advantage with the longer cables. Also, even through it's almost touching the battery that's in there is in the stock location on the stock battery tray.

Good fortune was shining on me yesterday. As was mentioned up thread I wanted to get a tender so I could leave it attached and not kill another battery. Well, although buying in store is more expensive than online, I have an old Sears Craftsmen gift car for my birthday or Christmas a few years ago. I haven't needed anything from Sears so it's been in my sock draw until now. This was the perfect opportunity so off I went with my $15 gift card to buy a $30 battery tender. First bit of good luck, the higher amperage waterproof version was on sale for $25 off. Bargain, I'll have that. Then I get to the checkout and find what I thought was a $15 gift card was actually $30 so even after tax I walk out with $0.38 left on the card. Awesome. I now have an 800mah waterproof tender for $0 out of pocket.

That car is missing the factory heat shield. I'm surprised it hasn't damaged the big stock-sized battery.

Powar wrote: That car is missing the factory heat shield. I'm surprised it hasn't damaged the big stock-sized battery.

That could be a contributor to the failure.

So, looking more at the PC680, the MJT version seems to be the one with the correct automotive terminals and a metal jacket for increased heat protection for use underhood. Do I want to spend the money on that, or get the regular one, or even the cheaper DEKA alternative.

Suggestions on heat shielding? I'm thinking of using an old licence plat mounted vertically with air space between both the battery and the turbo. What is the best grass roots / cheap ass heat reflecting material as I'm clean out of McLaren standard gold foil this week?

Fair warning for people using this thread for some diy solutions. the zippy packs that were recomended need to be kept at high (14+) voltage or they will be ruined. I tried the setup and it did start and run the car, but once the battery came down to the normal car voltage (13.5) the battery was shot. Make sure too look for LiFePo4 batteries NOT the LiPo.

Hello, What would be the AH of these 2 batterys connected parallel?

ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack

In reply to Regerfab:

You'll need to get a voltage regulator that keeps the system above 14V. Most Chevys have one entirely accidentally as did my old Honda.

If you want ten-year life out of a Zippy LiFePO4 battery, you'll need to wire it so that it's charged by an onboard battery charger and disconnected from the vehicle as soon as the engine is running. Make sure there's a cap bank (at least 1 F, weighs <5 grams) connected to the alternator output so the diodes don't blow.

In reply to theoevoix:

8400 mAh * 2 = 16800 mAh * 1 A / 1000 mA = 16.8 Ah. One of those batteries will start an LS1; what sort of diesel are you starting with this?

In reply to Adrian_Thompson:

How about an aluminized mylar space blanket?

In reply to chaparral:

My post was 2 1/2 years ago! I've long since sold the car.

In reply to chaparral:

I am thinking of using them for a Mitsubishi Lancer because of the small weight.

One of them will start the engine just fine down to 35 degrees F. Two of them will also start the engine just fine down to 35 degrees F. Use the quick-disconnects and bring it in overnight and you'll have fewer problems.