Cheapest Track suitable brake pads for a cheap car?

Keith Tanner said:

I would recommend mechanical empathy. If your pads overheat, it doesn't matter how many track days you do - it's the one that matters. So pay attention and be willing to back off if necessary. As long as you're not trying to win the track day, you'll be fine.

As for sources - when I was running PFCs, I used to get them from PFC.

Of course you are right as usual, and I've been doing this long enough to recognize brake fade, and know how to handle it (after learning the hard way...more than once unfortunately).  I guess I should have defined "suitable"  I meant good enough that I won't have to drive around them and can push all day every session.  I wouldn't say I'm trying to "win the track day" (I never have the fastest car), but I am taking data, and constantly trying to improve my laptimes/corner exit speeds/optimal brake points, etc.  I really try to learn every time, and I have to push pretty hard to do that.

californiamilleghia said:

and what brake fluid do you use ?

Do you change it after each race weekend ?

I personally use Motul 660, but it's pretty expensive and probably overkill.  I doubt I'd boil the 600 and it's about half the price.

I certainly don't change it after every weekend, but I do test the moisture content(brake fluid tester from amazon...), typically bleed each caliper just to be 100% sure there is no air, and top off the master with fresh fluid. Even this is probably overkill and they don't necessarily need to be bled every time.  I've boiled fluid before though, and unless you brought a bunch with you and all your bleeding supplies, your day is over.  Since I only get to go once a month or so, a ruined day isn't worth the 10-15 minutes i'd spend bleeding brakes.  (I use a pressure bleeder, typically have the wheels off anyway so it's a no brainer).  I've heard good things about ATE type 200 fluid, and it's cheaper still, but I've never actually used it myself...

I haven't boiled motul 600 and I've let it go almost a year before.

So I've been reading this thread with interest because years ago a friend asked me why I have monster brakes on my cars, the replies in this thread are why.

So just to follow up, I ended up ordering Carbotech xp8's directly from Carbotech for +/- 400 bucks.  I think they'll do the job, and hopefully last a while.  Main reason I went with the carbotech's over some of the other options mentioned here was their website.  Though you can't pay online, you can place an order, and they call you for payment info.   "Jody" called the next business day, and couldn't have been any nicer.  Most/All of the other sites had either fronts or rears, but not both

While $400 pads aren't what I'd call cheap, they are definitely a good bit cheaper than the Hawk or PFC's I usually buy.  I hope I like them!

cbaclawski said:

So just to follow up, I ended up ordering Carbotech xp8's directly from Carbotech for +/- 400 bucks.  I think they'll do the job, and hopefully last a while.  Main reason I went with the carbotech's over some of the other options mentioned here was their website.  Though you can't pay online, you can place an order, and they call you for payment info.   "Jody" called the next business day, and couldn't have been any nicer.  Most/All of the other sites had either fronts or rears, but not both

While $400 pads aren't what I'd call cheap, they are definitely a good bit cheaper than the Hawk or PFC's I usually buy.  I hope I like them!

Good call. I've always been happy with Carbotech's on 2 different brake setups on 2 different Miata's. 

Just remember, clean or fresh rotors, to bed them in. Hammer the crap out of them with 70-5 stops, constantly, until the brakes start to stink and the pedal gets a bit soft............drive home gingerly and let them cool. A quick brake bleed and you should be good to go. 

I remember Carbotech being fussier about pad transfer from other pads than some other brands. That may be a function of the pads, it may be a function of the people from Carbotech :) You may have to go further than just wiping the surface down with some brake clean - check with them. 

Another thing to consider from all this is improved cooling. It can make a lesser pad work very well. 

Thanks guys - 

When I originally started on this car I was thinking It'd be cool to have an endurance car, but once I really thought about that I realized that without substantial cooling upgrades, I'm probably going to have some heat issues after 5 or so laps(or less).  This is probably the wrong car for that.  going to make this a dedicated TT car.  These brakes and stock cooling should be good for a couple hot laps, and it should be pretty fast too.  ( broke down and ordered wheels/tires/coilovers, upgraded charge pipe, catless downpipes, and put an MHD tune on it.  Now it just needs to go on a diet, a cage, some aero, maybe an LSD,  and it should be quick!  shooting for NASA TT3/TT4 depending on dyno results and how much weight i can drop.  So much for a cheap car...

Thanks again,

Curt

cbaclawski said:

Thanks guys - 

When I originally started on this car I was thinking It'd be cool to have an endurance car, but once I really thought about that I realized that without substantial cooling upgrades, I'm probably going to have some heat issues after 5 or so laps(or less).  This is probably the wrong car for that.  going to make this a dedicated TT car.  These brakes and stock cooling should be good for a couple hot laps, and it should be pretty fast too.  ( broke down and ordered wheels/tires/coilovers, upgraded charge pipe, catless downpipes, and put an MHD tune on it.  Now it just needs to go on a diet, a cage, some aero, maybe an LSD,  and it should be quick!  shooting for NASA TT3/TT4 depending on dyno results and how much weight i can drop.  So much for a cheap car...

Thanks again,

Curt

Probably sooner than that if you're beating on it. An easy thing you can do to help with cooling, since this was a cheap car to begin with, duct the all the air coming in to the radiator and coolers. IE, surround them so you force the air through the heat exchangers instead of letting it go around (air will take the path of least resistance). Then put a few ducts in the hood to help coax the air through the exchangers.