bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
12/12/24 12:18 p.m.

Any thoughts on a gentle but effective method of rust removal that wont hard the nearby PCB?

I'm thinking a toothbrush and some cleaning solution, but also debating a gentle dremel polish. My usual wire brush or soaking methods are a no-go.

The0retical
The0retical UberDork
12/12/24 12:53 p.m.

Emery cloth would be my weapon of choice for something like that.

Use a hole punch to cut a piece and super glue it to a pencil eraser for the fine work.

Glue a piece to a pencil or popsicle stick for the inside and between sections of the lugs and the underside of the prongs.

The switches might need to be desoldered and replaced depending on how bad the internals are.

jwagner (Forum Supporter)
jwagner (Forum Supporter) HalfDork
12/12/24 12:54 p.m.

I don't understand rust on electronics contacts, which are usually made of a copper alloy, frequently plated in gold.  Throwing ideas against the wall:   Maybe start with a Q tip or toothbrush and solvent, then vinegar?  I would consider replacing the affected parts if you can get to the back of the board.  The screw terminals just have to work mechanically, the inside of the terminals need to be oxidation free.  Or maybe soldering wires directly to the terminals to insure a decent connection?  In any case, I suspect those switches might be beyond saving and probably need replacing.  Good luck.

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
12/12/24 1:21 p.m.

Appreciated! Emory board is a great idea. I also remember from some old mixing gear a contact cleaner called Deoxit and see it's sold online. I'll give that a go.

My theory on this is the wires rubbing on the terminals removed the protective (cheap=thin) coating, then the mixture of industrial pollution and salt air breed this interesting chemistry experiment. This isn't anything critical, so i'll try to clean it before i decide to replace any parts.

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
12/12/24 1:24 p.m.

Coke cola on a q tip.

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
12/12/24 2:04 p.m.

Follow-up question, can anyone figure out the name of the screw lug terminals? The ones used for the 6 primary wires. My google skills are failing me...

The0retical
The0retical UberDork
12/12/24 2:30 p.m.

I don't have a good feel for how they're mounted or large they are, but they look like they're high amperage through hole mountable wire lugs.

https://lugsdirect.com/IHI_HIGH_CURRENT_PCB-TERMINALS-_SELECTION_CHART2.htm

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
12/12/24 2:48 p.m.

Thanks, that is much closer than what I was finding. If you loosen the screw you can remove the "nut" from the offset terminal spade that is soldered into the PCB. It can take up to 8AWG.

 

Edit: I think we have a winner

914Driver
914Driver MegaDork
12/12/24 3:13 p.m.

I've had pretty good luck with Fertan Rust Remover and a toothbrush.  A 1 oz. bottle is ~$10.

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
12/12/24 3:20 p.m.

I know Evapo-Rust claims to be gentle and non-toxic.  It supposedly only eats rust by a process known as selective chelation.  I have no idea if you could dunk a PCB in the stuff.

stuart in mn
stuart in mn MegaDork
12/12/24 4:27 p.m.

I've successfully used Evaporust on delicate things by wrapping the rusty bits with a paper towel soaked in it.  That may work for those terminals.

Be careful using any abrasives, the terminals are plated that may be damaged or removed if you're too aggressive.  My go to for cleaning electronic parts with tarnish is a soft pencil eraser.

triumph7
triumph7 Dork
12/12/24 11:17 p.m.
bbbbRASS said:

Appreciated! Emory board is a great idea. I also remember from some old mixing gear a contact cleaner called Deoxit and see it's sold online. I'll give that a go.

My theory on this is the wires rubbing on the terminals removed the protective (cheap=thin) coating, then the mixture of industrial pollution and salt air breed this interesting chemistry experiment. This isn't anything critical, so i'll try to clean it before i decide to replace any parts.

I've seen DeOxit5 at Guitar Center

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