Coilovers for a 2004 Volvo S60R

I am curious what you guys might think or know about putting coilovers on cars in general, and specifically, a car like my friend's Volvo S60R. I don't have experience with them, but I do know that they require more setup than just install and drive. This car is is destined to more track use than street.

What are they like to live with on a car that might get driven just for fun on public roads from time to time and to and from the track? How much (ball park) might a race shop charge to have the car set up? And where could we get some base numbers to go with for rake, ride height, and whatnot?

I learned a ton from the article that GRM wrote up about corner balancing as well as the Exocet build thread. My natural inclination would be to measure where the car is now and start there, but the car did not come with stock suspension and it sits much lower. Rather than spend a huge amound of money returning it to its stock components, he'd rather skip to the step he thinks he'd take anyway with the coilovers.

I would rather see him pay somebody reputable than do it himself because I've seen even a "professional" job result in maxed out preload that result in binding and then a wrecked Evo.

The R has the active suspension, so coil overs might not be that simple. KW makes a coil overs in a couple different performance levels for most Volvos including the S60. Looks like the V2 kit for an AWD S60 is $2K plus, but going and putting that R badge on it creates more questions. I'd wager there's more involved in disabling the active suspension than simply disconnection it.

• Lee

His active suspension is... currently inactive. As far as we can tell, it just has those magnetic-magic shocks like the Corvette got for its 50th birthday (and like some of the C6 packages). His front shocks' wires were cut prior to him buying the car... the wire was cut right at the outlet of the shock so there is no lead to solder onto. It's all RIGHT there, but it would require disassembly to get it working. It looks like disabling it was as easy as cutting the wires. Is there more to it than that?

A replacement kit for the OEM shocks is almost as expensive as the coilovers that KW makes. Also, he doesn't have the right springs, so even if he fixed the shocks, he'd still have all-berkeleyed-up springs.

I'll look for the link here in a bit, but I found a couple threads on swedespeed.com (i think) that had instructions on how to turn off the active suspension with out messing up the ABS or traction control. I believe it is a fairly recent workaround.

Start with stock specs and go from there. Lower it a bit maybe. For an area with smooth roads the coilovers will be no problem, and are a great idea for a primarily-track car. I'm running 600lb/in+ springs on a light car and it's fine where the road is smooth.

I know I'd expect to pay at least $350 for corner balancing alone, and labor's cheaper here...

In reply to GameboyRMH:

That is good news about the ball park price. We were guestimating that the price would be somewhere in the neighborhood of $1,000 at the minimum for corner balancing.

We think that the car is probably sitting too low right now. The wheels rub on the inside of the wheel well and they are sporting the proper tire size. It looks awesome, but it's a shame he can't turn the wheel all the way... Also, doesn't handling get all wonky when you lower a car too much?

I don't think wheel rub at full turning lock on a S60/V70 is that uncommon with a stock setup. My V70R has a slight amount of rub and it is stock as far as I know.

Just cutting the wires may work, but there's a lot of components talking to each other in that system. Hence my question/apprehension.

Signals

The table below summarizes the input signals to and output signals from the suspension module (SUM). The signal types are divided into directly connected signals and CAN communication. The illustration below displays the same information with the Volvo component designations.

Volvo said: The main task of the suspension module is to manage the Four-C (Continuously Controlled Chassis Concept) function, i.e. continuously regulate the damping in the shock absorbers. The control module is under the floor carpet on the left-hand side of the center console beside the gear selector lever. The control module continuously reads the input signals to calculate the movements of the car and control the damping forces to keep the ride comfort as good as possible. The Four-C function is a factory installed accessory only available on cars with DSTC (Dynamic stability and traction control). The suspension module (SUM) reads off and controls directly connected components. The suspension module (SUM) communicates with other control modules using serial communication. The suspension module (SUM) checks activations and input and output signals via an integrated diagnostic system. if the control module detects a fault, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored. However the control module continues to run the system in failsafe mode, where the shock absorbers function as standard passive dampers. In the event of a fault, an error message is transmitted to the driver information module (DIM). Any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are stored in the memory in the suspension module (SUM). The data can be read off using VIDA. An easy way to check whether the suspension module (SUM) is powered is to change driving mode and check that it changes. See Function, Changing the driving mode. If the voltage falls below 9 V or exceeds 16.0 V, the system continues in failsafe mode. For further information, also see Signal specifications.

• Lee

In reply to pappatho:

That's good to know. We thought it had plus-size tires on it at first, but nope. OEM replacements.

In reply to bigdaddylee82:

That is awesome. He should understand that diagram. I am going to point him to this thread.

Lots of active suspension info here:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?164573

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?191177-Four-C-Mod

pappatho wrote: I don't think wheel rub at full turning lock on a S60/V70 is that uncommon with a stock setup. My V70R has a slight amount of rub and it is stock as far as I know.

Over time, the steering stop limiters wear down and the tire will rub against the fender. Rather than replacing it, you simply add washers between the limiter and the control arm until the noise stops. Turn the steering wheel to full lock so you can do it without jacking up the car. Here's the parts diagram http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/volvo/roller/1147267/31212191.html