In reply to Jaynen :
Good point about the fees. I'll need to look into those. The "buying power" think was confusing me, you cleared that up. A deposit to bid makes sense but seems so strange. I've got some reading to do before buying something I guess!
Did the MR2 already end, at $700? That car looks hosed. I wonder what condition the engine was in. I'm finding that if it was an SMT car you wouldn't have any problem making money!! Well, depending on fees and shipping cost of course.
Dude look at this one:
https://www.copart.com/lot/37880757/Photos
That's gonna be tough to find anything reusable on!
In reply to dculberson :
pax headlight looks ok... maybe the drivers door?
I'm guessing rollover... considering the mud, wet road lift off oversteer induced?
dculberson said:Jaynen said:Here's a c6 currently at 4k and change with rear end damage
https://www.copart.com/lot/40359217
I'm seriously considering bidding on this. I just submitted my registration and will do a test bid once my registration is complete. Any suggestions for a total Copart n00b?
It looks like they will arrange shipping to me - 2000 miles - for about $1500. There's a lot of convenience in that. Any chance that using their shipper is a bad idea?
This is a long shot; I'm not sure I'm willing to pay what it will go for. But I figure thinking about it and submitting a lowball test bid is a good easy and cheap way to get my toes wet.
Nice car. I used to lurk for a few weeks before I placed my bids. It's nice to log on to the LIVE-AUCTIONS and see what cars go for and also the States/Countries that the bidders are bidding from.
Crazy story: I was looking at an '89 325IS (E30) a few months back. Had rear-end damage, not too bad (Lights and trunk) Red/Black/5Sp. I was looking to pay about 2K for it and put another 1K in repairs. I kid you not, there was a bidder from Panama and another from South Africa that were bidding on it and got it all the way up to $5200.00 It was nice seeing it go so high.. Damn E30 tax. Be careful, don't fall in love. Stick to what you know.
dculberson said:In reply to Jaynen :
Good point about the fees. I'll need to look into those. The "buying power" think was confusing me, you cleared that up. A deposit to bid makes sense but seems so strange. I've got some reading to do before buying something I guess!
Did the MR2 already end, at $700? That car looks hosed. I wonder what condition the engine was in. I'm finding that if it was an SMT car you wouldn't have any problem making money!! Well, depending on fees and shipping cost of course.
well 700 dollar car would have been Fee C consumer using secure payment, so 230 dollar fee, 59 dollar gate fee, 39 dollar internet sale fee for a 5K+ car its 15% fee + 59 dollar gate fee, 79 internet bid fee anything over 4k.
I put a 300 dollar deposit with a credit card figured most the cars I am looking at here I would not want to pay more than 3k on as is anyway :P. That MR-S was actually totally clean looking on the other side I linked the picture with the worst damage I think most of the drivetrain would have been fine
If I was shopping more expensive cars I would just get a premier account so I would only have a 400 deposit total, but it looks like it resets around the new year so I don;t know why you would buy one right now? unless I misread it
So turns out that Corvette is a license-only auction so I would need to use a broker. That's a shame. I don't know how to tell which items are license only when looking at them. I found the "anyone can bid" checkbox in the search, but once you're looking at a car (ie, this one, found via a link here) it doesn't look like there's a box stating you need a license. They really get you with those fees huh?
I will be selling my 2003 c5 6-speed after a tree damaged it in irma. It should be an easy fix if anyone is interested.
I am waiting on the title from the insurance company. It will be a Florida rebuildable, when I get it back from them.
In reply to pimpm3 :
I think it goes without saying that there will be people interested! It all falls down to price and ability to get it. ;-)
dculberson said:So turns out that Corvette is a license-only auction so I would need to use a broker. That's a shame. I don't know how to tell which items are license only when looking at them. I found the "anyone can bid" checkbox in the search, but once you're looking at a car (ie, this one, found via a link here) it doesn't look like there's a box stating you need a license. They really get you with those fees huh?
Weird it's showing under "no license required" on search. When I looked up Auto Bid Master it was a flat 250 fee, and you put a 400 deposit down. The only thing is I don't know if at that point it uses your copart "bidding power" or not
dculberson said:In reply to pimpm3 :
I think it goes without saying that there will be people interested! It all falls down to price and ability to get it. ;-)
I've shipped a few cars from Jeremy's (pimpm3) area, Jacksonville, Fl to Sandusky and it has cost me $450-$550 each time. Almost exactly 1,000 miles.
John Welsh said:
This week in Cleveland...Is it just a GN or is it a Genuine GNX? The mesh rims and the side vents could be the real deal or just imitation. With a valuation given of $10k (pre accicent value) my guess is just GN.
Either way, it was totaled out pretty "effectively".
Pre bidding went to $2,675. Final bid was $3,300 which seemed to be enough (not mention of reserve while I watched it live.)
With Public buyer fees this $3,300 would then add $758 = $4117 What does that get you? An engine?
Jaynen said:Weird it's showing under "no license required" on search. When I looked up Auto Bid Master it was a flat 250 fee, and you put a 400 deposit down. The only thing is I don't know if at that point it uses your copart "bidding power" or not
Turns out they hadn't processed my ID yet. I can bid now. But I'm coming up with about $918 worth of fees even at the current bid price ($5100 + $100 increment = $5200 minimum bid) plus shipping of $1500 is $7,618. I'm not sure that's an amount I want to bid on a lark. It would be a good deal but maybe I should buy something local first to see how everything works.
I would not purchase a car that expensive for my first go at this. I would also pick something local enough to go look at in person so I can be sure I know what needs replacing. Now if you REALLY want a C6 vette that would be different. Where are you located?
Like I said rule of thumb make sure your total out of pocket is less than 50-60% of the cars value on craigslist etc
In reply to dculberson :
Buy something local first and buy something you can lay hands on before bidding.
In reply to Jaynen :
I do really want a C6 Vette, but would be jumping the gun a bit to get this one. (I haven't even finished my current fun car project, the MR2 of course!) I'm in Columbus, OH.
I'll wait. The color just spoke to me. I will be more patient.
John Welsh said:Pre bidding went to $2,675. Final bid was $3,300 which seemed to be enough (not mention of reserve while I watched it live.)
With Public buyer fees this $3,300 would then add $758 = $4117 What does that get you? An engine?
Maybe a taillight? Are those rare? Yeah, I agree that went higher than I would have expected.
Are any of the other OH Copart locations "close" to you? Cleveland East and West/Dayton?
Your selection is quite limited there compared to what I am seeing in NC, you have 200 or less run and drive/no license cars while, Raleigh has 588, and the big one China Grove near Charlotte has 785 right now
Keep us posted on the Corvette, Pimp. Im fairly close in central Bama, surely close enough to come with a trailer and in my State the Beverly hilbillys truck wouldn't get a second glance at the DMV so title shouldn't be too hectic. I also have a master MB tech best friend with a NASTY Z06 that would highly approve and help. Any pics, now that I've run my mouth?
In reply to Jaynen :
There's an IAAI auction very close to me every Wednesday. But the Copart Columbus is the only Copart close to me.
sleepyhead said:John Welsh said:Pre bidding went to $2,675. Final bid was $3,300 which seemed to be enough (not mention of reserve while I watched it live.)
With Public buyer fees this $3,300 would then add $758 = $4117 What does that get you? An engine?
Maybe a taillight? Are those rare? Yeah, I agree that went higher than I would have expected.
If it's a real GNX I'd say it's worth it for the vin and the title. If it's just a GNX clone that definitely feels high to me.
I will get some pics of the damage. It could be inspected and titled with just a windsheild.
It has new re11's on the back, new hawk pads all around, new z06 shocks, a k&n filter etc... 110k miles on an 03 anniversary edition.
It should buff right out 
It looks like /TheDrive is jumping in on all this, and trying to ring the warning siren?
remember, only buy new... it's the only way to avoid these types of problems! Think of the kids!
So are you allowed to go in person and check these out prior to the auctions? I assumed they were stored behind fences and you couldn't look/drive until you bought.
I have been to a participating copart yard in San Bernadino and done an inspection prior to the auction.
You can, IAAI has certain days. All the coparts near me are 8 to 4:30 M-F you have to wear closed toed shoes.
That C6 goes up for auction today at 2 EDT
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