In reply to Jaynen :
Yeah, I was watching it. Looked like the bidder was from Ohio. That thing was tweaked, so hope they knew what they were getting into.
In reply to Jaynen :
Yeah, I was watching it. Looked like the bidder was from Ohio. That thing was tweaked, so hope they knew what they were getting into.
Jaynen said:That 911 sold for 28,500 waaaay too much
sleepyhead said:Jaynen said:That 911 sold for 28,500 waaaay too much
Here's the thread where Aussie bought his. His was newer, similar miles (35k), and he paid 40k. Considering the hit salvage cars take, and how much work this one needed, his was a much better deal imo. Of course maybe they'll part it out and do well, but at a 28k buy in they must be much better at parting cars than me.
Cotton said:My problem with the Nashville copart is just about everything requires a dealer license, so I always have to go through a broker, which is a hassle. I have a dealer buddy that might let me use his license, so I plan to ask next time I see him. I was browsing last night a found quite a few I want to bid on.
How much do Broker's charge you for this? and how is the process? Do they bid for you, then pay the vehicle, then you pay them?
Reason I ask is that my Brother has a dealer's license out of MA, he has a few guys sighed up under him to bid on behalf of the Dealership.. May be an option for you.
In reply to M3Loco :
The last time I tried it I went through the copart broker service and there were 3 fees, which vary by broker. Registration fee was $50 and was refunded if I didn't buy anything. There was also a security deposit that was iirc $500, then a transaction fee of 200 I think if you bought something. Once signed up they just sent me a username and password to bid with. The problem with that process is it takes a while to setup and you have to go through it each time you want to participate in an auction, which really puts a damper on my impulse buying! That being said I do have a dealer buddy, so will run it by him to see if adding his dealer license to my account might be a possibility. I don't mind paying someone for the ability to bid, I just want to bid when I want without having to go through the broker process so often.
Cool! He may just be able to add you as REP under his account. That is if he's got the Premium account.
Good Luck!
When I looked into this after talking to Loco so I would be able to access Adesa or Mannheim auctions there was a lot about needing to be licensed in the state your are a resident of
Jaynen said:When I looked into this after talking to Loco so I would be able to access Adesa or Mannheim auctions there was a lot about needing to be licensed in the state your are a resident of
A Dealer's licence could be from Alaska, and you can purchase Nationally. You don't have to be licensed in the state you are a resident of. I can buy anywhere in the U.S. with my licence from GA.
I keep looking at parts prices on local iaai and copart cars. My next part out might come from here. Seems like some good potential profits. I need to watch the fees though!
Coming up locally in about an hour. Currently at 1050, sold for 1200
So I am currently winning this orange NB with a pure sale bid of 625 dollars. I put a 1200 dollar max bid on it. If it goes that cheap it seems like a great deal. However I sort of promised SWMBO I would not buy anything until bonus time in December. If I win it cheap to I fess up? Do I stash it until december when I "buy" it, or do I sell it off to one of you folks :P
While orange is generally a good color for me.... unfortunately I'm out of the Miata game until sometime in the late 2030's
Hit up Dusterbd13 if you decide to sell it, he may be interested and he's in NC as well. He's been talking about wanting a less bent up daily driver Miata.
In reply to untchabl :
Well I won. Was not expecting to. Base sale price was 1200 ended up being 1750 with fees.
Damn, this went for 1350. 04 Cayanne with 125k and what looked to be minor front end damage. Should have looked at that one in person.
Can't seem to link it now since the auction is over.
In reply to Jaynen :
Where are you again? Didn't yupididit need a bunch of velocity orange Miata parts? Looks like a good deal, does it run and drive?
dculberson said:In reply to Jaynen :
Where are you again? Didn't yupididit need a bunch of velocity orange Miata parts? Looks like a good deal, does it run and drive?
Run and drive, Raleigh, Car is in China Grove which is outside Charlotte NC. I have 3 days to pay and 5 to pick it up. If I don't buy it I think I have to pay a 400 dollar relisting fee. Its also a 99 which is the most desirable year for building a track car the motors can easily be made to hit about 130whp I think
Only damage I can see is passenger door, and quarterpanel looks like a gouge. As a track car if the door opens and closes I would probably not even bother. And slight tape over something in front fascia
Cool. What is the original color of the car? Crappy repaint. In the picture with the passenger door open you can see they painted the whole door closing latch/striker orange too. The close up of the vin tag also shows a lot of paint on the tag itself. The firewall is black so I suspect black is the original color.
Yeah good eye I think you are right. Also looking at the fender/firewall in the underhood shot
In reply to John Welsh :
Based on the VIN tag paint code is was originally Emerald Green.
Jaynen said:dculberson said:In reply to Jaynen :
Where are you again? Didn't yupididit need a bunch of velocity orange Miata parts? Looks like a good deal, does it run and drive?
Run and drive, Raleigh, Car is in China Grove which is outside Charlotte NC. I have 3 days to pay and 5 to pick it up. If I don't buy it I think I have to pay a 400 dollar relisting fee. Its also a 99 which is the most desirable year for building a track car the motors can easily be made to hit about 150whp I think
Only damage I can see is passenger door, and quarterpanel looks like a gouge. As a track car if the door opens and closes I would probably not even bother. And slight tape over something in front fascia
I think there's a little more going on with that front bumper cover... still shouldn't be hard to fix/replace.
150whp, afaik, is: intake, header, exhaust & tune on these cars
Nice that's a hell of a lot more than my 1990 NA made. If I am keeping it as a track car I don't even really care about the bodywork as long as nothing important is tweaked
this might better belong on "Classic Motorsports"... still, popped up at the top just now:
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