Cost effective rollbar for the Answer

Which rollbar options should I be looking at? My criteria are: fit under a hardtop, have provisions for harnesses/harness bar and not hideously expensive. Answer in question is a 94.

Harddog. You may be able to find one slightly cheaper used but might as well just buy it new. They hold their value.

Yup, just buy new. I waited nearly a year before a friend sold me a hard dog on the cheap. He swore up and down it was the hardtop version...I found out that it wasn't after I installed it.

I'm sure Home Depot would be more than happy to sell you some PVC pipe for cheap. You could even fashion a harness bar out of it.

Seriously, Order here:

https://www.flyinmiata.com/miata-performance-parts/na8-1994-97/na8-safety.html

And request a harness bar is added when they build it.

calteg wrote: Yup, just buy new. I waited nearly a year before a former friend sold me a hard dog on the cheap. He swore up and down it was the hardtop version...I found out that it wasn't after I installed it.

Fixed that for you.

Having installed a Hard Dog bar, I'm pretty sure that's a hangin' offense . . . at least in Texas.

Welp. Time to eat ramen noodles for awhile.

kazoospec wrote:

calteg wrote: Yup, just buy new. I waited nearly a year before a former friend sold me a hard dog on the cheap. He swore up and down it was the hardtop version...I found out that it wasn't after I installed it.

Fixed that for you. Having installed a Hard Dog bar, I'm pretty sure that's a hangin' offense . . . at least in Texas.

He sold it to me stupid, stupid cheap. Mostly because he had painted it in a color scheme similar to this

But yes, I was...displeased.

Fun fact: The non-hardtop version will actually clear a hardtop, you just won't be able to secure it using the side latches.

calteg wrote: Fun fact: The non-hardtop version will actually clear a hardtop, you just won't be able to secure it using the side latches.

That's correct, although it's pretty secure with just the front latches and the frankenstein bolts. I have a HDHCDD non-HT on my car, I use it with a hard top, and I really don't miss the side latches.

Note that the non-HT bar is taller than the HT one. To make the side latches work they have to move the main hoop backwards, and that means it can't be as tall while still having enough clearance for the roof. Given that I'm 6' tall and I need all the help I can get to pass the broomstick test, I'm glad I have the non-HT version.

The other vendor to look at for Miata roll bars is Blackbird Fabworx. I have no personal experience with their products (I bought my Hard Dog a decade before Moti started selling bars), but the ones I've seen look good and I've read great things about them.

I made my own for about $160 in tubing

codrus wrote:

calteg wrote: Fun fact: The non-hardtop version will actually clear a hardtop, you just won't be able to secure it using the side latches.

That's correct, although it's pretty secure with just the front latches and the frankenstein bolts. I have a HDHCDD non-HT on my car, I use it with a hard top, and I really don't miss the side latches. Note that the non-HT bar is taller than the HT one. To make the side latches work they have to move the main hoop backwards, and that means it can't be as tall while still having enough clearance for the roof. Given that I'm 6' tall and I need all the help I can get to pass the broomstick test, I'm glad I have the non-HT version. The other vendor to look at for Miata roll bars is Blackbird Fabworx. I have no personal experience with their products (I bought my Hard Dog a decade before Moti started selling bars), but the ones I've seen look good and I've read great things about them.

The Blackbird bars are not cheap though. Looked at them and they are about $775, for the GT3 bar at least. The ND bar is $1200. Plus the last time I tried to get on their website it gave me some scary message about how the security ID didn't match the website and they could be trying to steal personal ID, which scared me off.

I've been in contact with Moti recently in regard to his single diagonal bar. Traded a few emails with him. I've also combed through other forums for feedback on him and his bars. Universal praise, from what I've found. I'm leaning in his direction at this point for a bar for my '99.

I know a lot about the Hard Dog bars, feel free to give me a call. BTW, if you're anywhere near NC, you can pick one up at the HD shop and save on shipping.

I'm running a non hardtop Hard Dog (sport) with a factory hardtop. As mentioned, you can't use the factory side latches with this bar. I'm using the Jass Performance hard top side brackets. They work well, and make stealing a hard top much more difficult.

Just FYI if you get a used bar, the hardware kit (backing plates and bolts) is another $75 if it doesn't come w/ it.

I've got a non hardtop hardcore bar and go without the side latches. It squeaks a bit each winter when I put it on (a day or two) but then goes away as it just barely touches the bar in one spot.

There's a guy who autocross also with a boss frog clear view that he likes.

<----Sitting here happily cause my '97 came with a Hard Dog bar already installed. It looks like a moderate PITA to do cleanly.

The install is not actually too bad. We took a slow weekend and 3/4 people and knocked it out pretty good.

Sat afternoon: pulled the seats out, vacuumed car, undid the seat belts/trim and such, lifted rear of car up on jack stands, took off wheels, took out fender liners, took out spare tire, trunk carpet, and trim panel, set the bar where it should approximately be (its heavy, 2 people hold, 1 direct).

Sunday morning: roll up rear carpet, test fit the bar again, mark area, cut rear deck metal on each side, fit bar, adjust bar so sitting flat, put nuts on seat belt bolt that is reused, drill holes for mounting in rear (1st through top, others through bottom, watch out for battery cables!), bolt in lightly, drill front mounting holes, bolt on, torque everything down, cut carpet to fit around everything, cut seat belt trim to fit, put everything back together, test drive. Think we finished up ~2ish.

Use a bunch of zip locks/ fishing tackle box to keep track of all your little screws/trim clips/etc.

Here's a pretty solid guide with pictures. http://members.shaw.ca/rstange1/stormy/RollBar.pdf

The trick to a clean install is to do all the heavy lifting one day, then take a break before you do the fine trimming. Puts you in a more delicate frame of mind.