Crunched My Outback: Sell, File Claim or Drive It?

Checkered Blood Racing said:

Have you done any testing in it after that crash?

Does it go straight?

Does it make noise?

How does it drive at highway speeds?

PS: You could always use it, as is, for a down payment on a new car... 

I drives straight but the interior noise is up....which tells me the hatch isn't 100%.

As for the cost, I will be paying for it one way or the other.

Just a semi-silly thought. Modified RallyX car.

I've been an independent agent and certified gearhead for longer than I want to admit.   I've been on both sides of that question.  Had one totalled, and kept another accepting used parts to avoid it being totalled.  

A leaking hatch gasket letting exhaust enter the car would be a big concern (Buy a CO detector and test it?), but also suspension geometry.  You said it drives straight and seemingly normally.  How about getting an alignment shop to confirm that everything is where it belongs.  Being that the impact was apparently dead center, it's possible that the alignment on both sides is messed up equally, basically cancelling themselves out.  Might not be until you have to do a wild evasive manuever that you discover "Oh shoot. It'll spin out now."  Might also not be until rear tires are worn in some wierd pattern.  

Part of it too, is how much do you love the thing.  If you know that a replacement will just never scratch that itch the same way, see what you can do GRM style to hang on to it.  If it's just an appliance and you're a risk avoider, let it go.  Avoid the worry. 

I'd defintely keep that and drive it around.

Subarus are pretty notorious for doing that. The frame rails are bent along with the trunk floor. The problem I've run into with them is if the rails are accordioned they need replaced, and they may only be sold as a full rear rail, which is a small fortune. That's not to say a guy couldn't pull it back into shape with a frame machine (or a solid tree) but it won't fix the compromised rails. Get any kind of hit again and the damage will probably be twice as bad.

No way that hatch is safely sealed from the gaps you have.

In reply to GopherBrokeRacing :

If they can fix it great but if not I'm also content to get another. 

Your comments and concerns are mine as well.

I just don't understand... A heavy chain and an oak tree.  Send it!!!! 

Restoring the dimensions of the car by pulling the frame does not restore its structural integrity. Those rails have a weak spot now.

Subaru procedures for rear rail replacement call for quarter panel removal. Two quarter panels, two rear rails and a rear floor pan. That's easily $12k+ for proper repairs.

Update:

I dropped the car off yesterday. The initial estimate is $2200 which includes 2hrs on the rack.

We shall see what the uncover. If the bill doesn't go to much higher it shouldn't end up totalled.

I bought my wife new car so that will be our road trip car.

The Outback will be remain my daily.

I am amaze that a rolling speed whack into the trailer hitch would cause that much damage.  What is that car made from, hopes and dreams?

In reply to 93gsxturbo :

The wall was course concrete and gripped the hitch......so as the car rode up the wall it pryed the frame down. Because the hitch is bolted to the frame rails they took the brunt of the hit. They aren't designed for that.

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Well, Unibody swaps are kinda a big thing nowadays, and I've thought that a Subaru Outback would be nice under a Corvair wagon body....as long as it has enough front overhang anyway.

Here's a nice California donor for $800:

In reply to Kreb (Forum Supporter) :

That would be cool but the Sube is a work horse for me. 

93gsxturbo said:

I am amaze that a rolling speed whack into the trailer hitch would cause that much damage.  What is that car made from, hopes and dreams?

In today's world, $2200 is very minor.

Tom, don't be surprised if they find a E36 M3 ton more when they get started. 

Trailer hitches always cause a LOT of damage.

I just totaled a Honda HR-V that got hit in the back because the hitch took out the trunk floor. The part alone was over $2000. 

What you can see is only the tip of the iceberg.  Even on hail damage, which seems totally obvious, by the time I get my cars back, the initial estimate is at least doubled

Hail damage sucks to estimate. Until you have the car indoors under proper lighting it's just a guess when we write them.

In reply to SKJSS (formerly Klayfish) :

I won't be surprised........ I know there's a chance it will still get totalled.