The Lemans isn't charging. I tried an NOS voltage regulator, but the alternator is putting out 11.2v
So I bought a shiny new CS130 alternator. I have a wiring plan, but I have a question on the indicator lamp circuit.
I was described that the pin on the alternator that comes from the lamp needs to have 300-500 ohms resistance to signal the alternator to excite, and in applications with a charge lamp, the lamp itself is the resistance. It also suggests that you do a resistor in the circuit so it will continue charging if the lamp burns out.
Where do I put the resistor? I could put it across the lamp leads, but wouldn't that affect the operation of the lamp by bleeding voltage across it? Do I already have a resistor there... was it necessary for the old school regulator to function?
I'd not really worry about a resistor. Bulb in the dash will tell you important things when it doesn't come on koeo, as well as when it comes on koer. If you have a voltmeter, it's less important.
Anyway, I presume you would run the resistor parallel to the bulb. 300 ohms isn't going to draw off enough power to dim the bulb, I'd say.
Yeah, 300 ohms on 13V only passes 0.043A, barely enough to light an LED. It won't affect the bulb.
The bulb will light when you turn the switch on before the alternator starts spinning though, just like every car, so you get a test of the bulb every time you start.
Two other things to consider with the CS130 are the S and P terminals. The S in retrofits is typically looped over to the output stud and while that works it causes the alternator to regulate to a constant output voltage at the supply. Hooking that sensing voltage input up somewhere downstream of the fuse box causes the alternator to regulate its output to maintain constant voltage at the load end, which can result in better performance overall.
The P terminal, if it's enabled on your particular internal regulator, provides a square wave pulse output based on alternator rpm. That output looks an awful lot like a VSS output signal, and can be used to drive a tachometer for a diesel as originally intended or a cruise control on a manual transmission vehicle or one that is running as a stationary engine. You may never need those functions, but it is kind of cool to have them available.
I will likely use that P function for cruise if I can figure it out. It's getting an LS swap with a factory ECM and a T56.
Great tip on the S wire going downstream somewhere. Also... why can't the S be switched? I will never need it to sense voltage when the car is off. Would the alternator feed the ignition if I used a switched lead on the S? (car wouldn't shut off)
I had a charging issue on a car. I found that the circuit from the dash light and the alt. was broken somewhere. I ran a new wire from the light to the alt. and installed a simple 12V bulb in line. Problem solved.
Streetwiseguy said:
I'd not really worry about a resistor. Bulb in the dash will tell you important things when it doesn't come on koeo, as well as when it comes on koer. If you have a voltmeter, it's less important.
Anyway, I presume you would run the resistor parallel to the bulb. 300 ohms isn't going to draw off enough power to dim the bulb, I'd say.
Eventually it will have voltmeter which means I will need a resistor (from what I've read) to make it charge properly. Right now it's just the dummy light.
Ok... more questions so I can understand how it works instead of just following directions:
I'm told by the googles that I can use EITHER L or I. L is the lamp circuit and uses the lamp for resistance. I just gets a switched source with a resistor.
Is there a resistor built into the regulator on "I" or is that the resistor built into the harness? (cause I got a harness without a resistor, but its easy enough to add)
Can I hook up both; L from the lamp and I with a resistor on a switched source? Or will that confuse the regulator? I'm thinking that way it would continue charging if the lamp blew out and also be a simpler conversion when I ditch the dummy light for a voltmeter someday. (or if I wanted to add an LED in the voltmeter as a warning light in the future)
Curtis said:
Streetwiseguy said:
I'd not really worry about a resistor. Bulb in the dash will tell you important things when it doesn't come on koeo, as well as when it comes on koer. If you have a voltmeter, it's less important.
Anyway, I presume you would run the resistor parallel to the bulb. 300 ohms isn't going to draw off enough power to dim the bulb, I'd say.
Eventually it will have voltmeter which means I will need a resistor (from what I've read) to make it charge properly. Right now it's just the dummy light.
You don't need to remove the bulb when you add the voltmeter.
Am I the only guy who thought Curtis was working on one of these?
Streetwiseguy said:
Curtis said:
Streetwiseguy said:
I'd not really worry about a resistor. Bulb in the dash will tell you important things when it doesn't come on koeo, as well as when it comes on koer. If you have a voltmeter, it's less important.
Anyway, I presume you would run the resistor parallel to the bulb. 300 ohms isn't going to draw off enough power to dim the bulb, I'd say.
Eventually it will have voltmeter which means I will need a resistor (from what I've read) to make it charge properly. Right now it's just the dummy light.
You don't need to remove the bulb when you add the voltmeter.
But I will. Whole custom dash with VDO gauges going in.
There were at least 4 different internal voltage regulators used on those alternators. If I remember correctly the I terminal was used in applications where the computer could boost output, kinda like an electric version of an idle air valve. I don't think you would have any reason to use it.
