In reply to Knurled. :
25 years? Just a baby... Almost 40 for me.
In reply to Knurled. :
25 years? Just a baby... Almost 40 for me.
This is pretty obvious, but it's a good idea to clean out all the dirt, grease and gunk in the bolt head with a pick or similar tool first to make sure your driver seats well in the hole.
Streetwiseguy said:In reply to Knurled. :
25 years? Just a baby... Almost 40 for me.
Well I got it when I moved to the country so older would be hard for me!
Adrian_Thompson said:My 25 year 110V Craftsmen impact gun is too hot to hold. I don't want it to die on me so I'll leave it for tonight.
No air impact wrench? Amateur. 
Impacts aren't even stronger than humans with leverage, they're just more convenient!
Try rattling it in both directions, sometimes helps. Don't really have to worry about snapping the bolt off because if the impact could do it it would have done it in the lefty loosey direction already. 
Worst case scenario on these isn't all that bad because once you cut the bolt head off you can slide the axle right off of what's left and then have a solid inch or two of material to grab and get the rest of the bolt out. I've had to do it a couple of times.
This is an interesting read. I've always feared the impact with hex. I've used it with success on other bolts I didn't want to put big torque on directly. Something about the tap-tap-tap really does help. Just don't set the gun to KILL.
One thing to add - as tempting as it might be after this struggle, do not put anti-seize on these bolts during reassembly.
…Trust me.
New bolts are $3.99 ea. But the time to remove a broken one......ugh...
Put enough of the other bolts back in that the axle is held in place. Make sure socket is fully seated. Apply giant breaker bar. Your result was the same as when I dropped my boxster trans. Except the car's one win was a stripped out head so I got to grind it off. I have had success in the past with hammering in the next size up torx or triple square bit, but in this instance I spent an hour or more trying those things, and once I committed to just cutting the head off the axle was out about ten minutes later. If it comes to cutting, Porsche uses those force distributing washers which gives you a nice sacrificial surface to cut into without ruining the CV flange, just keep away from the boot. Once the head is off and the tension is removed, chances are the rest of the bolt just threads out by hand. $5 of hardware later and it's like it never happened.
stuart in mn said:This is pretty obvious, but it's a good idea to clean out all the dirt, grease and gunk in the bolt head with a pick or similar tool first to make sure your driver seats well in the hole.
^This is good advice. Also, use the uggie duggie wrench to replace the one directly across for stubborn #12 before resuming. Right now, she's catywumpus.
Also, put a couple back in the other axle, so you can put it in gear and crank on the ebrake and you aren't bouncing on the diff.
In reply to therieldeal :
I was going to be asking that one. Thx.
In reply to Gearheadotaku :
I'll check McMAsterCarr, but you may have a sale on your hands...........once I get a new trans.
Revised score.
Human with tools 12 : Car 0
Breaker bar won the day.
To be blunt, if I were you, I would change your caps to rivets. Generally speaking, multiple-grip rivets and dome-head rivets are the most popular. A multiple grip rivet is essentially the same as a standard dome-head rivet (retractable rivet); they have 2 separate areas where they can engage, so you don't have to worry as much about sizing up exactly, and they are a little more versatile in their use since you can cover a wide range of grip without having to carry a large range. You can order them from scrooz.com.au, as I do.
You'll need to log in to post.
