So I am guessing DSM injectors are the way to go.
Go with Acura RDX injectors. they are only $34 each, brand new, from the dealer. 440cc/min flow rate and MUCH MUCH better atomization than the ancient DSM injectors.
http://www.onecamonly.com/general-tech/1895-rdx-injector-info.html
Nice info. On that forum they had this link. Which one of those connectors would work for the RDX injector swap.
http://www.injector-rehab.com/outpatient/electrical.htm
I am assuming it is one of the bottom two. Also anyone know where to get the Mr. Gasket fuel rail mentioned in the previous forum post.
96DXCivic wrote: Anyone know the engine codes for those setups.
I'd recommend against a D15, they have smaller rods, which already is the weak point for a D16. Also smaller main bearings and rod bearings (50mm vs 55mm) The best engines to turbo are the 88-91 D16A6 out of Civic Si hatchbacks, CRX Sis and Civic EX sedans. This is a non-vtec motor. Also good is the D16Z6 from 92-95 Civic Si and EX, as well as certain Del Sols (not sure which trim levels off hand). This is a Vtec motor.
The non fuel efficiency biased 96-00 Civics use D16Y7 and D16Y8 motors. These have crappier bottom ends, with less oiling ports in the crank and a lower volume oil pump. The D16Y8 head is designed for better efficiency (promotes swirling the intake charge, and apparently has better quench) when compared to the Z6 head, which is supposed to flow more. There is also a difference in the base timing value between the D16Z6 and D16Y8 motors, because the Y8 require less timing. I'm not a tuner, but from what I understand because of the head design and the subsequent difference between the base timing, this makes tuning a Y8 head with an OBD1 honda ecu more difficult.
The D15 with "fake fuel injection" is a D15B2 found in DX trim 88-91 Civics and CRXs. It is the same motor as the DX motors out of the 92-95 Civics (D15B7), the only difference is the manifolds bolted to it, so no reason to avoid it if you're looking for a D15.
On a turbo car, I wouldn't bother swapping heads on different blocks. That's mostly useful for naturally aspired setups as a cheap/easy way to bump compression.
As for swapping transmissions, I'd go with the "Si/EX" transmission, which is the one with the 4.25:1 final drive and came mated originally with a D16Y8 and D16Z6 motors. The way to differentiate between the good trans and bad is by looking near the fill plug. There will be a round stamp. If it says P20 that indicates a 92-95 transmission, with cast shifter forks. I'm not sure what the code is for 96-00 trans are, but they have steel shifter forks. 88-91 transmissions are cable shifted, so you can't use them. Underneath the first number will be either B000 or A000. You want B000, which indicates the large bearing diff and 4.25 final drive. A000 transmissions use smaller diff bearings and have a final drive normally of 3.7-3.8:1 depending on model. This A000/B000 identification method works for both 92-95 and 96-00 transmissions.
EDIT: I will chime in with another recommendation for RDX injectors. Very good value for the $$, and they have an amazing spray pattern. K series motors have been proven to gain ~2 whp from these injectors just from the better atomization they provide. However, they are sized differently and will require a custom fuel rail or else using something like this: http://www.xenocron.com/rdx-injectors-adapter-pack-p-481.html
I should add that all my info is ignoring the special fuel economy biased models (8 valve, Vtec-E and such) because they're fairly rare (I personally have never seen one, seems like Canada didn't get very many of these at all) and not something you'll be wanting for a performance project anyways.
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