CyberEric said:I can't believe I don't know this, but what will eventually happen to an engine with a blown HG?
Explosion. Ok, not really, but the cylinders will wear from steaming a significant amount of oil off the walls. Oil will get diluted fast and cause bearings to go nuclear. Best case scenario, it seizes and you can repair it with an overbore and crank machine work. Worst case scenario, it breaks a rod and sends it into a brand new "ventilation port" on the side of the block.
The van I bought actually had two different prices. He tried to sell it with a skid full of mobile detailing equipment as a "turnkey business opportunity," but no one bit, so he offered it for a different price if he took the detailing stuff out. You might get a bite that way. Either the one price for a "live in camper but needs a head gasket," and another for "empgy cargo van lawn ornament."
I'm teasing. You might find a mechanically inclined student who needs a cheap ride for college and they're willing to do the work.
If you and your lovely bride are no longer doing "the van life," then it may be time to punt. You could sell it as is and put the return into a vehicle that suits your needs today. If you are contemplating a return to living in your van, then calculate what it would cost to replace this vehicle with something as good or a little better (like non-leaking head gaskets). The van's actual value is in the eye of the beholder anyway. The replacement value is the Big Cahuna.
Do some soul searching and talk to your wife to get her thoughts on whether your collective interests lie elsewhere now. Be honest with yourselves. You'll know what to do next.
So I finally went and picked up the van this morning. Apparently the compression was in the 130s in two of the three cylinders they checked on the pass side bank, the other was 178. Leak down test was not good either.
I told the service advisor I was considering adding something to stop the leak. He was really adamant about me not using anything, stating that it would ruin other parts of the engine that could be salvageable, like the T-stat, heater core, and radiator. Honestly, he has me a bit scared. He also told me not to drive the van anymore.
Anyone have any thoughts about what he said?
In reply to CyberEric :
I've heard about Bars Leak potentially gumming up heater cores so when I used it [to successfully stop a 261k Subaru external head gasket leak] I routed my HVAC output hose back onto the HVAC input port to isolate the heater core. So far no leaks and radiator and heater work. However, that's me just guessing that those Bars Leak free radicals floating around in the coolant aren't perpetually floating and that there was no longer any risk to the heater core after couple hundred miles.
I will just throw out there that the potential for "salvaging" a $15 t-stat and/or $100 radiator is not a logical rationale for avoid a potential savings of $8,000, amirite??
In reply to CyberEric :
I've lost track of the number of head gaskets I've fixed with Bars-Leak or the like. I had an accord that went another 2 years as a daily.
If you have the ability I'd pop the head and replace the head gasket.
In reply to P3PPY :
Good point! Thanks.
In reply to Tom1200 :
That's good to know you've had so much luck with it. It sounds like if the coolant is getting in the oil, then it (the liquid glass aka sodium silicate) can cause major issues. That doesn't seem to be happening, but I'm not sure either.
Re replacing the hg, it's an issue of ability, but also tool access, and mostly time. I may go that route, if I get up the courage and find free time. The thing is, like Curtis said, I'm 3/4 of the way to an engine replacement at that point.
This is the downside of doing a custom build and having so much time, energy, and emotional attachment to a vehicle. It's not rational but neither my wife nor I want to let it go. It also offers so much freedom, we can literally LIVE in this van, so if we want to move on from where we are, it's easy!
Many engine warranties require a new thermostat and radiator, or proof that they are less than a certain age. So I would not worry about them.
In reply to CyberEric :
Well for all the reasons you mentioned sticking an engine in it may be worthwhile.
We have a 1990 E250 coachman campervan; every time we think about moving it on the prices of a replacement reaffirm our decision to keep it. We are into it for 9K.
Y'know, the true WWGRMD method would be to engine swap it, most likely with a 4.8 LS/4l60 combo.
Put me down for tossing an engine in it. Some things are worth keeping.
You said you don't need it anymore, I'd cut your losses and move on.
In reply to Tom1200 :
I know! Everything I look at online is either not built out (which would cost many thousands) or is really expensive. Ours actually works too, it's liveable, not like some of these vans I see that have been built to look good but are completely non-functional. We have a nearly king size bed in ours!
@Recon1342, haha, that would be pretty sweet! Thanks for the vote. The truth is, I want to keep it, but logic says otherwise.
@Pete, thanks, that's good to know.
I'm going to sit with this for a while before making a decision. thanks for all the input everyone!
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to stuart in mn :
A lot of places do not want to touch internal engine work.
That's because internal engine work is quickly becoming a lost art thanks to the "disposable" convenience mentality we now live in.
I'll second a JY motor with the caveat that you had better know how it runs before you swap it. Vans are legitimately no fun to (motor) work on but at the end of the day, no harder. You sound like you want to keep it, even though you may not need to, and by doing so, you would be taking a position contrary to the collective common sense. But I understand and in fact endorse this, and also add that you would only be trading a set of problems you know for a fresh set of problems you don't. Everything I own is old and high-mileage.
Don't use liquid HG. On the off chance it works, it will also ruin the cooling system. As far as the long game, it will just continue to get thirstier and little related things in the cooling system will fail. It will become un-trustworthy. You may also have issues with moisture intrusion if it sits between runs. It will NOT heal.
Thanks for your thoughts. Explain moisture intrusion to me, please. Not heard of that.
Are there JYs that will somehow run an engine to make sure it is good working order before buying?
In reply to CyberEric :
Car-part.com will find you ones with warranties that are pulled for you and have supposedly been tested. But beware of how long they've sat in inventory. Also, it's really no skin off their back if they're wrong and it's bad -- but it means all the world to you. I ran into this with a couple used differentials recently, much much to my chagrin.
CyberEric said:Explain moisture intrusion to me, please. Not heard of that.
What leaks out, can leak in. When running, exhaust may be entering the cooling system, and coolant may be entering the cylinders and/or crankcase. Most likely all of the above. It's just one hot E36M3show heading for one of the unpleasantries Curtis eloquently described. When sitting and cold, Mr. Murphy will do his damnedest to make it leak worse, and there is no combustion pressure or reciprocating motion to blow the water out. The head gasket porosity can and eventually will allow coolant to invade the affected cylinders. This will mean rust in places you don't want it, especially since it's probable that the coolant is in poor condition now and not much help preventing corrosion.
This is the scenario for the junkyard motors that somehow end up with 2.5 gallons of coolant in the bottom of the oil pan and bores rusted up from just sitting in the yard with a bad HG.
@Nockenwelle, makes sense. Thanks.
@Peppy, that's helpful, thank you. Looking at car-part, there are engines in my general area with 100k selling for $2k, and remans listed for just under $3k. Seems like it might be worth it for a reman unless I can find a lower mileage used one.
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