Decision time...

Alright. First off, I want to start getting into NASA. I would love to compete in one of the spec classes. So I am trying to formulate a plan and set myself up to be able to do this. So starting from the bottom, I need to get some HPDE time and experience.

BTW, quick side question: What are the differences between NASA and SCCA? Is either more preferable than the other? Both of them operate here where I am at.

Anyway, I currently drive a 1988 CRX Si. Love the car, but I really want a RWD car. I need to start with a car that can be taken to the track and still driven reliably as a daily. Brakes and tire replacement is expected, obviously. I know NASA has spec classes for Miatas, E30s, and E36 325is. They also do Spec 350Z. I hear Spec Miata and Spec E30 are the cheapest ways to get started.

So I was considering picking up one of these cars to drive as a daily until I get past the HPDE events, and get a license. I figure I can THEN buy a different, cheapo daily, and begin prepping my first car for spec class. First, which class would you guys recommend for the budget racer? And I dont want to hear any of those snide "None of them" remarks!

Also, I found a few notable cars on local ads. Here is a 325i that is spec year and looks like would be a good project car:

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/1236954?ad_cid=4

And then I found this Miata that looks pretty nice. I can pick it up for 5 grand.

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/1297741?ad_cid=7

5 grand seems like a bit much for a car from 1997, but it only has 60k miles.

What do you guys think? Thanks a TON for taking the time to help me out!

Usually people have the SCCA vs NASA decision made for them based on their location. If you've got both operating where you are, I would attend PDX/HPDE with both and see which of the two appeals more to you.

BTW, that '97 Miata is not an M-Edition. Wrong color. And yes, it seems a little expensive compared to what I just sold mine for that already came with a roll bar, chassis/suspension mods and an SCCA logbook. Mind you, mine had about twice the miles on it. Good low mileage NA Miatas are going up in price these days, though.

With a Miata, make sure you have enough room to fit in there properly. You wouldn't be the first person on this board who eventually had to get rid of one because they couldn't get comfortable in it.

As to which series to race in, part of it is how deep your pockets are and part of it is how big the field is because you don't want to race against yourself all the time. All of the series can cost a lot of money depending on how competitive you are (have a look how much a really competitive Spec Piñata costs to build compared to an also ran) so I'd go check out all of them as a spectator, mingle with the racers and see which one appeals most. Also, don't forget about Spec Boxster.

Just as an aside - don't forget Time Trials as an alternative competitive sport that might have less of a chance for permanently reshaped body panels.

Awesome advice, thanks Tim! I didn't know Spec Boxster was a thing, but that sounds awesome! I had considered a Boxster since they can be had for cheap, but everyone says its only because maintenance and parts are so expensive. Any truth to this?

Also, I ran the VIN on that Miata, and the VIN says its an M-edition, but it could be a bad VIN (i.e. one that doesnt match the car). And time trial would be awesome. I just want seat time more than anything, and a little competition. I know lots of insurance companies will cover HPDEs.

Anyway, thanks for the tips. Keep 'em comin'!

Best advice I can give you... Hpde your daily to learn to drive on the cheap, but buy your first race car done and sorted. Build the second one.

No one builds a more expensive and ill prepared car than a novice backing in to a series a few parts at a time.

Desmond wrote: Awesome advice, thanks Tim! I didn't know Spec Boxster was a thing, but that sounds awesome! I had considered a Boxster since they can be had for cheap, but everyone says its only because maintenance and parts are so expensive. Any truth to this?

Porsche parts are generally not cheap, but these cars are fairly durable. Depending on your wrenching skills, they can be a fairly good buy and track car. However if you can't DIY them, they get expensive - same rule as for all Porsches.

Desmond wrote: Also, I ran the VIN on that Miata, and the VIN says its an M-edition, but it could be a bad VIN (i.e. one that doesnt match the car).

Well, unless the photos are really bad, it's the wrong color. It's also listed as "black" exterior. This is what a '97 M-Edition looks like, courtesy of the M-Edition field guide on miata.net:

Desmond wrote: And time trial would be awesome. I just want seat time more than anything, and a little competition. I know lots of insurance companies will cover HPDEs.

If you're after seat time, you're much better off with HPDE and Time Trials. For example, in my SCCA area (Reno), a day of PDX/CT/TT gets you 4-5 20 minute track sessions. When racing, you get a race that lasts, what, 20 minutes and one session of qualifying, possibly two.

Assuming it IS a 97 M edition, wasn't that one of the oddball years that only the M didn't have the LSD? I expect Keith to chime in here any second on that.

Considering the possible confusion on the part of the seller I'd do some more research and look it over very carefully before buying.

Another up and coming class in NASA at least is spec 944 which looks pretty fun in our region. That being said the biggest fields in our NASA region (south east) are in Spec E30 and Thunder roadster. Thunder roadster is very popular but not a class you can jump into until you are father along up the HPDE ladder as it is a solo ride with no space for an instructor.

I would second going to a couple of weekends with your local SCCA and NASA groups and see what classes are popular and which group feels better for you. Some folks are able to race in both clubs with the same car and have lots and lots of fun.

I sold my 1996 M Edition last summer in 8 days for $5000 with 85,000 miles. I'd say that is a fair price if the car is as advertised. Less if not accurate. Mine had about 5 track days and 30 autocrosses on it.

Man I miss that car!

Well the VIN says the Miata is an M edition. I read up, and I guess they only came in dark green that year, with tan top. Cant see the top in the pic. Its supposed to have the Torsen LSD. Any other ways to tell if it truely is an M edition when I get there?

Scrape off the black paint if it's really painted black? M-Editions always had a special paint that wasn't available on other cars in that particular model year. Check the areas that are commonly not painted during a respray like the engine bay and the inside of the trunk.

Other than that, the leather seats should have headrest speakers and have an "M-Edition" logo stiched on the headrest. All of these parts bolt in easily though and it's not that hard to change the interior one a Miata so I would only take that as a potential indication that it might be an M-edition.

I'm not aware that the M-Editions had special VINs (Keith might know), a Mazda dealer may be able to confirm if it really is/was an M-Edition or not. I would not trust any other source.

If it was an M-Edition that has lost several of the features that make it an M-Edition (like the wheels or the special paint), is worth precisely zero more than a regular bog standard Miata. Not to mention that I would want to know why it was painted; if the seller doesn't know and the car is showing any signs of being repainted, I wouldn't pay the sort of money that buys you a really nice Miata with its original paint.

That said, every yahoo and their used car salesman brother advertise base model Miatas as M-Editions, even for years that didn't even have one.

In reply to Junkyard_Dog:

97 M has the LSD. Drove one today, and can confirm.

If that is an M, its stripped of every identifiable interior M piece. I'd bet it wasn't M given the interior and color, but the VIN throws me off.

Yeah, running the VIN indicates it is in fact the M edition. The only reason I want the M edition is for resale value and the LSD.

http://www.vindecoder.net/?vin=JM1NA3530V0731042&submit=Decode

http://www.decodethis.com/VIN-Decoded/vin/JM1NA3530V0731042

Lets assume it is an M. Is it still worth the 5k? I too am confused why someone would paint a special painted version of a car black. I asked and the dude said if its been painted, it was done before he got the car.

BTW I would simply go see the car, but its over 3 hours away from me...

If you're going to modify the car, it doesn't matter if you started with an M Edition or not, because the resale value is really only going to be affected if it's got all the M Edition bits on it and is mostly unmodified. Once you stuck a roll bar in it for track use, put race seats in it all that's left is a Miata with a bunch more holes in it that has an LSD.

You should be able to pick up a decent Miata with higher miles for $3k-$4k. I don't think this car is worth $5k unless it's in pristine shape. In that case you probably don't want to hack it up for a track car.

Miles aren't really a problem with Miatas, I've tracked ones that had 170k+ miles on them and it's not too hard to swap in an LSD either.