Before I buy parts I don't need, Best way to determine bad clutch master vs. bad slave? Always seems to be a little air left when bled, and pedal goes limp after sitting for a while.
Before I buy parts I don't need, Best way to determine bad clutch master vs. bad slave? Always seems to be a little air left when bled, and pedal goes limp after sitting for a while.
With that description it could be either or. Have you tried to reverse bleeding it? In other words, pushing fluid up from the slave through the master to the resevior.
What kind of slave cyl does it have? External or internal, if its external its probably cheap and easy to replace.
Which have you changed and with who's parts?
Typically, I have found that a bad slave leaves you with a soft spongy pedal that doesn't allow shifting. A bad master is a fricking brick to push.
I always diagnose wrong and replace both, except on the Ranger (slave is the throwout bearing and the transmission must be removed)..then I just cry because it turned out to be the hose.
Bruce
A limp pedal is usually a bad slave cylinder. The master will leak fluid into the car if it's bad, but will continue to work until it runs out fluid. Check the slave for sirgs of leakage.
Haven't found any leaks, and it's an external slave. It's easy to get to, looks like I'm starting there. Thanks for the tips everyone.
IIRC, rebuild kits for both are cheap. Might as well do both at the same time.
Of course no one in town has one, have to wait for Monday
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