tuna55 said:
I can't share the data directly, but what I can say is this:
It was a major manufacturer, and fairly new. We were not testing torque wrenches, but rather testing the K value of a specific bolt and lubricant. We were measuring torque versus load for various setups. THe click style and the industrial hydraulic wrenches gave very repeatable results, meaning we got similar K values for repeat tests. The digital torque wrench threw the K values all over the place and we stopped using it.
I wonder how the vintage style beam torque wrenches compare
Stanger2000 said:
I have the HF 1/4 and as prev posters mentioned the clicking mechanism is a bit iffy but still works ok for me. I noticed in light tq settings that it will not make the audible click but still has a sligh breakaway to it so I pay close attention. Under higher tq settings it clicks away just fine.
I have a 1/2 Ampro 10-150 ft-lbs that I've had for years and it looks identical to the HF 1/2 version seems to do fine for heavier stuff.
That is exactly my experience with the HF 1/4" model.
The bigger HF torque wrenches seem to be amazing for the price. The 1/4" is, as has been said, prone to having a very, very gentle click. You need to have a built in torque wrench from experience - don't go wailing on a 10 inch-pound bolt - you should be aware that it's going to be a pretty gentle pressure that gets it to that torque.
Nugi
Reader
4/5/18 1:09 p.m.
Stripped a head bolt using a hf, 1/2" iirc, bought 6 years ago. Swore off cheap stuff for critical jobs after that. Still clicks, but not anywhere near where it is set. It occasionally sees use as a breaker bar now.
I went digital and havent looked back. So much easier. Just wish they would do a vibrate alert, beeps are occasionally hard to hear over shop noise. I found the inexpensive adapter type to be as reliable as the snapon unless overtorqued.
Stanger2000 said:
tuna55 said:
I can't share the data directly, but what I can say is this:
It was a major manufacturer, and fairly new. We were not testing torque wrenches, but rather testing the K value of a specific bolt and lubricant. We were measuring torque versus load for various setups. THe click style and the industrial hydraulic wrenches gave very repeatable results, meaning we got similar K values for repeat tests. The digital torque wrench threw the K values all over the place and we stopped using it.
I wonder how the vintage style beam torque wrenches compare
Bending beam torque wrenches are damn near infallible by design. The only downside is that you need to be able to look straight at the scale while applying gronk, which may not be the easiest thing in the world.
I used to calibrate torque wrenches for uncle Sam's nuclear canoe club and the beam type is always more accurate and reliable. Like an order of magnitude more accurate. I would trust the cheapest beam type to be at least as accurate as any but the most expensive clicker type.
If you aren't going to get your clicker professionally calibrated you really should screw two pieces of 2x4 to something, put your clicker in between them, and tighten a nut onto a bolt with a beam type as a cal check.
Nugi said:
Stripped a head bolt using a hf, 1/2" iirc, bought 6 years ago. Swore off cheap stuff for critical jobs after that.
That's what I meant by "need to have a built-in torque wrench." A failed torque wrench isn't going to result in my stripping out a bolt. It's going to result in me having to loosen and re-torque a bolt. If you set it at a realistic value and it doesn't click, don't keep pulling harder and harder. Failure point for a bolt head is way past a realistic torque value. I'm able to distinguish between 30lb-ft and 130lb-ft, aren't you?
In reply to dculberson :
Not sure if I'm missing the sarcasm. A torque wrench, much like jack stands, is a tool you need to trust. If the wrench doesn't minimally click each and every time you use it, everything about the job is suspect.
Also I can't tell the difference between 50 ft-lbs and 100 ft-lbs when I'm contorted doing something on an aircraft or balanced on a work stand. That's more than enough to break something in a lot of circumstances.
Hell I've broken things which are torqued with in-lbs wrenches.
