Nugi
Nugi Reader
2/27/19 8:34 a.m.

I had an interesting discussion with a fellow gearhead, and now I am confronted with a bit of my own ignorance. Having bought a 'new' used car, I am doing my standard *Replace all the fluids, Inspect for dodgy rubber bits (phrasing!?) and Refresh ignition system" dance. He suggested to replace the old ignition coil with a new one for 'full output', and it was likely 'worn out'. I recall my father suggesting I replace my coil on my 60s Beetle for more power, and it seemed to work, but may have just been a more modern design. 

Now, part of me accepted this at face value. Perhaps electron stripping, heat cycles, vibration, and degradation/fouling of insulators will rob horses (thats a hangin!)  But the electronics guy in me is like, "It is a coil of copper wire, a simple transformer, either it breaks (from overheating from worn plugs, vibration, etc) or its working to spec." I.e., if resistance is fine, leave it alone. 

Anyone have any input? Maybe someone has a new and used coil of the same batch they can measure for resistance? Any first hand knowledge or better yet, hard data? Armchair free-association welcome if on-topic. 

Vigo
Vigo UltimaDork
2/27/19 8:44 a.m.

Electrically you're right. If the windings still have the right resistance then it is still doing the proper amount of transforming. cheeky   But, I've also seen a lot of coils fail due to insulation, such that the secondary winding is arcing right back to the primary through the case, or outside the case to the ground it's bolted to. So the windings are not the only thing that can fail. But, if it's working it's probably working properly. The only reason i would ever preemptively replace a coil is to prevent me having to do it at a less convenient time later. Even then, that only feels like a good option when you know the new part is high quality. The internet is now flooded with incredibly cheap ignition coils and a lot of tales of short lifespan to go with them. 

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy MegaDork
2/27/19 8:50 a.m.

Depends on the coil.  Older, oil filled coils generally are pretty robust, and most will last the life of the car.  Newer ones tend to fail a bit more often because they are smaller, not oil cooled, and more tightly wound to make more power.  Some seem to last forever, some are made by Honda.laugh  The coil on plug units seem to vary by manufacturer.  I don't know whether I've ever changed a GM LS coil, but I have done lots of Ford, Volvo and Nissan coils.

 

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 UltimaDork
2/27/19 8:52 a.m.

If it makes you feel better, replace it with a quality part.   Insulation can certainly break down over time in the harsh underhood environment.

What kinda car is it?

Nugi
Nugi Reader
2/27/19 8:52 a.m.

Thats about my thinking. Currently at 180k on the oe motor. The coils are inside the distributor on most of these pre-COP hondas, and was considering the classic "while you're in there" scenario. 

 

Edit: car is 185k 1st gen CRV

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 Reader
2/27/19 9:02 a.m.

The open frame sytle coils (looking at you Subaru) do get weak as the frame plates get corrosion between them. If the coil in the distributor on your Honda is that style, do replace it.

Tyler H
Tyler H GRM+ Memberand UberDork
2/27/19 9:04 a.m.

I say inspect them while doing the plugs.  If no oil intrusion or obvious issues, put it back. 

The replacement parts are likely to be worse quality than OE.

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