Appleseed said:
Bothers me. Rationally, I know its bare metal, and I live in 400% humidity, but the narcissist in me says you just paid $XX for brand new parts, and they look like ass.
The struggle is real
Same here. Michigan FTL. First time I ever had relatively thin spoke wheels was on the Spec V. I spent the better part of a Saturday with the wire wheel, high temp primer and then high temp paint. They looked great . . . for about six months. Next brake job (or "break job" in Craigslist speak), I spent extra for the "from the factory" hat coating. Again . . . six months later, rust starts breaking through. About 8 months later, completely rusty. I simply added it to the list of things I cannot control, along with "why can't people get snow tires and learn to drive in the snow so MDOT doesn't feel the need to repave the roads with salt every December?"
As long as they're not crusty rusty. Ok in my book.
Hmmm, lots of good chatter here. FWIW, I talked to Tim McNair, our pro detailer friend, and he shared a possible quick and easy fix. Let's see how that works....
It also bugs me. So I tend to either paint the hubs or buy some kind of coated rotor.
Although the last time I bought brakes they were two piece with coated alumimum hat so I didn't have to worry about it.
Looks nice if they're painted but I totally understand if they're not. Even when painted, it's hard to find a paint that lasts. Next time I put new rotors on a car I'm going to paint the hat AND edge, always wondered how that would work, and I saw a Japanese tuning shop do it so I figure it's worth a shot.
The planck length is the smallest distance measurable.
If you measured the fuhcks I give about what a random goober on the internet thinks of any part of my car you would find it to be less than that.
