I can't be the only GRMer who sees way too many ads for Gyraline, basically a smartphone holder and app for DIY alignments, or at least alignment check.
Not sure if anyone's had a chance to experiment with it yet? The reviews of people actually using it on YouTube seem to be somewhat mixed and as expected, running from "best thing since Hawaiian bread" to "meh, not very accurate then, is it?"
I am looking at acquiring the tools to at least do basic alignment checks at home as getting to a shop that does them properly is a bit of an undertaking to put it mildly so obviously it appeals, but I'm wondering if time and money would be better spent by purchasing and learning the use of some proper string alignment tooling?
I've also been viewing the ads and wondering the same thing. Also would love to hear if someone's actually used it and what their experience was.
In reply to dj06482 (Forum Supporter) :
And if nobody has used it, maybe there is an article suggestion right there.
BoxheadTim said:
In reply to dj06482 (Forum Supporter) :
...maybe there is an article suggestion right there.
Was just thinking the same this am.
Seems like you could just buy some fishing line at a local place and string up your car more precisely and repeatably.
I had not heard of this before but it looks very interesting. I like to DIY things but setting up strings and making the measurements is definitely tedious and a pain in the butt (I've done it several times). Would love to see GRM test this thing out and report back.
I've used my phone to measure camber before which is straight forward (same as using any other level really) but inferring toe and thrust and everything else from the phone seems a little questionable. They explain it as using the phone's sensors to create planes but I'm unclear on what those sensors are (GPS?). Their accuracy section reads like it was written by a freshman engineering student who's trying to make his one hour lab experiment sound like a big deal. It looks like they only tested repeatability/accuracy on one car in one location. I'd like to see that it works on street cars, track cars, drift cars, in your garage, in the pits, etc.
Even if GRM won't do the test it might be worth $150 to try it out.
I am also looking into the and others. My question is can you zero out the sensor to check alignment on a car that is not on a perfectly flat surface. Are all readings in relation to each other and independent of level?
Some have a special phone holder that looks 3D printed and a pay by the hour or subscription.
akylekoz said:
I am also looking into the and others. My question is can you zero out the sensor to check alignment on a car that is not on a perfectly flat surface. Are all readings in relation to each other and independent of level?
Some have a special phone holder that looks 3D printed and a pay by the hour or subscription.
Watching their camber video it looks like they want the car as level as possible, I was hoping there'd be a way to zero it out but to me it doesn't look like it.
I'm pretty tempted to pick one up before spring rolls around, I already fudge my way through my own alignments and I think this would improve my accuracy and speed things up.
I've used it to check toe and get the wheel centered. I've had it provide repeatable numbers on my iPhone 13 mini. Tire wear is also good on my SE46 and I didn't even check if my floor was flat or level.
adam525i said:
akylekoz said:
I am also looking into the and others. My question is can you zero out the sensor to check alignment on a car that is not on a perfectly flat surface. Are all readings in relation to each other and independent of level?
Some have a special phone holder that looks 3D printed and a pay by the hour or subscription.
Watching their camber video it looks like they want the car as level as possible, I was hoping there'd be a way to zero it out but to me it doesn't look like it.
I'm pretty tempted to pick one up before spring rolls around, I already fudge my way through my own alignments and I think this would improve my accuracy and speed things up.
In one of the videos I watched the guy started the process with the case on the ground. Maybe it grabs reference when you hit start?
theruleslawyer said:
In one of the videos I watched the guy started the process with the case on the ground. Maybe it grabs reference when you hit start?
Levelness isn't just important for the calibration of the camber gauge but also because when the car is sitting on a slope the amount of weight on each wheel is different from when it's level. The wheels on the downhill side have more weight, so the suspension will be more compressed and whatever camber gain/etc is built into the geometry will take effect. Similarly, if the car has any bumpsteer then that will show up as a static toe change. This generally isn't a huge effect (at least not at anything but crazy angles), but it isn't something you can compensate for in the gauge so you really do want it as level as possible.
codrus (Forum Supporter) said:
theruleslawyer said:
In one of the videos I watched the guy started the process with the case on the ground. Maybe it grabs reference when you hit start?
Levelness isn't just important for the calibration of the camber gauge but also because when the car is sitting on a slope the amount of weight on each wheel is different from when it's level. The wheels on the downhill side have more weight, so the suspension will be more compressed and whatever camber gain/etc is built into the geometry will take effect. Similarly, if the car has any bumpsteer then that will show up as a static toe change. This generally isn't a huge effect (at least not at anything but crazy angles), but it isn't something you can compensate for in the gauge so you really do want it as level as possible.
That's true. However on a typical garage floor I doubt the suspension loading is meaningful. Especially in comparison to just making sure camber references the ground plane. I wouldn't trust it out on a sloped driveway or something. The how to video on their site says to use a bubble level, so no integrated ground plane calibration yet.
I got an email from them with a 30% off discount code - NewYearNewGyraline2025, good until Friday 1/17/2025 at 11:59:59 Central.
I bit, they don't deliver to Canada so it is going to my mailbox in Ogdensburg, not sure the next time I'll slip over but I'll grab it then.
Anybody have anything new to add? I'm intrigued but probably will be using strings and digital level this week.
I've got mine now but haven't used it yet. Once I play around with it I'll post some feedback.
akylekoz said:
I am also looking into the and others. My question is can you zero out the sensor to check alignment on a car that is not on a perfectly flat surface. Are all readings in relation to each other and independent of level?
It wouldn't matter, because even if your measurements are accurate, the suspension being articulated would make the alignment off, due to toe and camber change with suspension travel.
Even solid axles will change toe with travel because the locating links aren't infinitely long.
NOHOME
MegaDork
3/15/25 8:59 a.m.
When I am doing structural repairs on rusty old brit cars, I have a friend bring over a laser level and we create shim stacks out of plywood and sheet-metal for where the axle stands are going to be placed. This gives me a working plane that I can measure to if I have to and tells me if the car is bent before I start.
For alignment purposes on a garage floor, the same could be done for where the tires land and that way the car is level regardless of how bad your shop floor might be.
I'm looking for close enough, it does not need to match pro equipment. Considering the methods I have been using which I've been happy with the results of I expect this to be an improvement.
In reply to adam525i :
I worked for over a decade in a shop without an alignment rack. With a tape measure, I could get the alignment to within 1/8".
This was measuring off of ribs in the tires, too.
I level my open trailer with my phone and a bubble level and use that as my platform. I use a level tool on my phone to get camber and use plastic bags with a squirt of oil in them to act as turn plates under the front tires. A friend made a set of weighted toe plates from rotors cut in half that we place up against the tires. If I could use my phone instead of tape measures that would make things just a bit easier. Time for a magazine test!
Seems like it works, that's a couple between MINIzguy and the guy on VW Vortex....
