This forum reads my mind! I was just thinking about doing this on my DD 3er...noticed the early signs of scorin on one front rotor. I won't have new pads and rotors in until next week, but I will probably take the old ones in to be turned when they get here. With one car (that works) I basically need a spare set anyway. At $7.50 per to turn and $50 per rotor, it seems worth a try!
When I installed the rotors on the Olds I also used EBC Green Stuff pads and did my best to bed them in using a number of stops going from extremely gentle braking to hard braking over about 10 runs from 60 to ~5 MPH. I don't know if that's the best way to do this but that seemed to be an accepted method. There could be un-evenness in the transfer layer from pad material to rotor surface causing my pedal pulsation problem but at this point I just deal with it and go on.
Pulsation can also be due to worn caliper parts like a caliper pin bushing.
skruffy wrote: Going to track days would get really expensive if I had to change rotors with every set of pads.
the instructor at my first track day drove a Civic with NASA in ... I don't remember which class ... H1, H2... what ever... he said he usually had to replace the pads after each weekend ... he also replaced the rotors each time.. but they were "el-cheapo" cast iron no-names...
Ditto running them if the brakes were shimmy free and they look at least decent, and are not so worn the calipers are hanging way out there flapping in the breeze causing...yada yada yada. I like to think all the heat cycles stress relive rotors and that they are actually better than new - so I am effectively making money when I leave them on, not just saving it. It is a truly great feeling, like something a hedge fund manager might feel.
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