Dremel my new race seat? Am I crazy??

Bought a race seat, OMP HTE-R, for the Miata to find out I'm about .5 to 1 inch from clearing the cage. Had a cage welder come by and he said he'd have to basically take apart half the cage to modify the door bars enough to fit the seat.

He suggested I take a dremel to the seat and notch it to fit around the cage. Another person on Facebook did too.

Am I crazy to think about botching my new $1000 seat?? Can't return the seat because my initial install scratched it. Not to excited by selling the new seat and buying a different one 

Have you done the requisite amount of sledgehammering on the transmission tunnel?

Berck said:

Have you done the requisite amount of sledgehammering on the transmission tunnel?

Unfortunately yes. I thought the transmission notch would be enough but not quite. Took a hammer to it still and it was better, but not perfwct

I'd be hesitant to Dremel it. Hard to say which inch is the critical inch to the strength of the seat, right? 

That was my hesitation as well, but two people told me to do it so it got me thinking.

looking at the seat, it has a rolled edge so it looks like it would be okay as it would affect the "main" tub, but idk.

Dremel it then use hot glue on the fabric to stop any eventual fraying.

In reply to Hoppps :

I was picturing the same rolled edge, but coming to the opposite conclusion. Cutting out that 180 roll that I think is what's fouling with your cage, takes away the rigidity on that left side. Not sure if that would matter in a crash, but not sure it wouldn't. 

Could you raise the seat to create clearance? 

Gentle application of a Porta-Power to bend the cage tubes in situ?

I'm surprised that the seat can't just be forced into place, if you've tried that already.

Maybe it's just me, but I'm not 100% sure which bar is fouling the seat. It looks like it's hitting on the bottom sill bar. 

If the seat is fiberglass, you could remove the cover, notch the seat to clear the bar, and then reinforce the seat in that area with fiberglass bracing and ribs.  

no doubt it would invalidate any rating at the sea currently has, but I've done properly. I'd imagine you could retain the seat's strength.

You could also possibly take a little material off of the other side to get it to squeeze to the right a bit more as well

I'll show my lack of knowledge by asking this question:

Isn't it bad to have the seat in contact with a cage bar? Or barely clearing?

Any impact felt by the cage would transmit to the seat (and you), even if it doesn't permanently deform the cage or intrude into the cockpit. 

Hoppps said:

That was my hesitation as well, but two people told me to do it so it got me thinking.

looking at the seat, it has a rolled edge so it looks like it would be okay as it would affect the "main" tub, but idk.

Well I'd be concerned it would create a stress riser in a crash. I'd also be concerned that modifying it would invalidate any certification if that is important to you. Plus any future tech inspection you have to go through it gives a potential point of doubt. Also it'll ruin the resale value.

I'd be more inclined to see if you can't create clearance on the transmission tunnel with a hammer. That or sell it and just take the L.

Does the car need to pass tech with a racing org?  If so, then you might want to check with a tech inspector for that org before doing anything with a dremel.

It will need to pass tech for a racing org.

Similar to what no time said, is it bad to be right up against the tunnel and roll cage? It exactly 19.5 inches apart, and that's the exact size of the seat. I fear going over a rough surface would make it crack if it's sandwiched right on the cage?

If all else fails, anyone want to buy an HTE-R 400 valid until 2030? Lol

How much will your cage builder charge you to adjust the cage?

codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

Does the car need to pass tech with a racing org?  If so, then you might want to check with a tech inspector for that org before doing anything with a dremel.

 

This is the right answer.  My hunch is that if you cut into it, they will treat it as an out-of-certification seat and you will have to add a back brace.

In reply to ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter) :

Or worse, they'll treat it as damaged safety equipment and say "try again". 

I'm not clear on where the proposed cuts are either but I agree with checking with the sanctioning body.  I'm also concerned the if you have to notch a seat to clear a bar there's a darn good chance the bar is going to be too close to the driver after installation.

Well, I reached out to SCCA who I will primarily want to race with, and this was the response to if the seat can touch the cage, and if I can notch it:

"This will probably meet all your concerns. Yes, the seat may touch the cage, and yes, the seat may be modified. The GCR states simply that you must have a "one piece seat securely mounted," so there are no ratings to worry about."

With that said, I still share everyone's concerns about possible damage if it's up against the roll cage, and will see if I can finesse the trans tunnel a little more. I'd rather that then cut it up.

I didn't read NASA rules but I believe I may require the back brace if I cut it.

So I learned lots of new things today!

I'll print that email out to have handy when I get my first logbook lol

if its fiberglass underneath i imagine reinforcing it with more glass after notching would not compromise it at all.

certification.  who knows.  but if its under the cover.  woudl htat bea a really really throgugh inspection

I think you're crazy for using a Dremel.

A die grinder will be much more suited to the job and will probably still be working when you're finished.