The only key to my truck (Ford Ranger) was misplaced. So, I did the only sensible thing....I bought a new cylinder and keys, and broke out my drill.
I tore into it pretty good last night, but I guess I haven't removed enough of the tumblers to allow turning the ignition with a screwdriver. I've gotten a little gunshy about going after it too hard, but I do need my truck back on the road. The local locksmiths don't want anything to do with drilling locks, which is probably a smart move liability wise.
So, whats my play here? Bump up to a 1/2" bit and keep going at it? Suck it up and pay $200 or so to the one guy who is willing to work on it? Any tips from the pros who have done this before?
Thanks!
Take the column cover off and remove the lock cylinder?
There's a pin on the underside that you push up to release it.
Right, there is a pin there to release it. Unfortunately, that pin can only be depressed with the key in 'Run' position. Which is tougher to accomplish without said key.
So, basically I need to be able to get it turned to the run position, just once.
Yeah keep at it, a little at a time, it should get there. If not, its a ranger, the junkyard will have a steering column for it.
What year is the Ranger? Somewhere along the way they acquired a passive chip key that won't allow you to start the truck even though the key turns. My '94 doesn't have it but my '07 work truck does. Good luck.
If you've got the old style lock cylinder with the metal tabs to turn the cylinder once the key is in, a pair of water pump pliers on the tabs and a twist just like you are using the key will make short work of the tumblers.
I've done that more than once on old trucks in the junkyard.
Thanks for the advice, all. I managed to get it knocked out over my lunch break. Wound up drilling out the safety tab at the bottom and sliding it out that way.
Thanks again for the suggestions!
i love these questions where the model year of the vehicle in question is left off... they made Rangers for like 30 years, with a few changes along the way...
either way, glad it worked out.. had to do that on my 82 F250 when the key (made out aluminum, great idea there, Ford) decided to break off inside the cylinder in such a way that i couldn't turn it... so i drilled the damn thing out and just kept a stubby screwdriver in the cubby hole by the radio to start it... i figured that if anyone wanted to take that POS, it was their loss not mine..
Hey Guys, unfortunately i have found myself in the exact boat going doing the same sh** creek as mentioned in the posts above. I see you mentioned drilling out a safety tab, could you elaborate a bit on that? And if i do just jamb a drill into the keyhole, how much am i trying to drill into it? as in just drill out the pins in the tumbler part of the lock or drill the entire tumbler out 'til i see the back or it moves? Thanks to anyone for any help in advance.
MajorMusician said:
Hey Guys, unfortunately i have found myself in the exact boat going doing the same sh** creek as mentioned in the posts above. I see you mentioned drilling out a safety tab, could you elaborate a bit on that? And if i do just jamb a drill into the keyhole, how much am i trying to drill into it? as in just drill out the pins in the tumbler part of the lock or drill the entire tumbler out 'til i see the back or it moves? Thanks to anyone for any help in advance.
I believe the safety tab he's talking about is the lever type thing that tells the steering wheel not to move. I'd start by knocking all the pins top and bottom by pushing a drill through the key hole and aiming up and down at the pins. I'd move to the safety tab if that fails. Hope that helps a bit.
