So I took my grandfathers old 1992 chevy C2500 out for a test ride, the plan to to drive from TX to IL. Problem is that I was driving along, took it around the block once or twice, then out of the town (small town) up to a freeway, opened it up to 75 mph then off an exit back around through town, maybe ~5 miles maybe 7 minutes. On the way through town the engine died and luckily we were right near the local shop my grandfather took the truck to, so I was able to coast in safely. Once there I wasn't able to start it back up again but it would crank.
This happened to my mother couple months ago when she was down visiting family previously, and the battery was potential thought to be at fault so it was replaced. The shop drove it around the block and thought it was okay and it was driven back to the house <1 mile.
Obviously as my experience today shows, the problem is still around, I was thinking maybe alternator, and the battery died because faulty charging? What about distributor? The truck had the engine replaced ~10k miles ago, but I am not sure what engine is in it currently V8 something. Also as I was driving along it felt like the truck was shaking occasionally, but I don't if that was just "Im a truck this is how I drive" or if it is related. I know it would be a lot more helpful to know the engine, but help as you can? Thanks
Also this will be an adventure when we take off for IL Monday or Sunday.
run a volt meter to the battery to see what voltage it's getting at idle, if the voltage is steadily dropping, it's most likely the alt. It's a good place to start, at least, and a simple diag.
In my experience it usually is the alternator. It might not be charging, the battery ran out, but still had enough juice to kind of half ass turn the engine over.
Might be something completely different though=]
^(global C.Y.A. statement)
the truck should have a volt meter- what does that say?
just dying out of nowhere without any previous symptoms or even so much as a hiccup tells me that it's ignition related- ignition module, maybe?
what do the cap and rotor look like?
Also check the fuel pump as well.
Fuel pump or ignition module. Both common failure points. The ignition module gets warm, expands internally and loses connection. Once cooled down, it restarts. IT may do this for a month, or it may completely die tomorrow.
Fuel pump can alos be low on pressure, overheat and shut down, but my big money is on the ign module.
Is there a good way to test if the fuel pump is on its way out and possibly a way to baby it along on a long trip, short of changing the fuel pump assembly?
Shop didn't think it was ignition related since they were getting spark. But they also were able to run it for over an hour no problem, albeit that was only idling.
Fuel pump, or more likely a fuel pump relay. Pumps usually don't die while running, just during start up.
Ignition module is another item that fails when it warms up.
In reply to Cone_Junky:
I thought that the pump could be overheating after it has been driven for several miles and that causes it to die. Anyway to test which is to blame?
Some parts stores can test modules, take it in when its warm. Fuel pump can be tested with an inline gauge replacing the filter. TBI should run 9-12lbs.
Modules and pumps are cheap on these, tank isn't too bad to drop just drain it first! (sometimes it's easier to pull up the bed rather than drop the tank.)
Okay the fuel pump was running at 12 psi with the inline gauge replacing the filter. But does that mean I shouldn't have to worry about it overheating, or does that usually occur when the pressure is low?
with 12psi I'd say the pump is fine. They normally drop pressure as they die. I'd go after the ign module.
Ignishion module or coil would be where I would start. I had a gmc pickup that did somthing similar. Eventually found that the coil was the issue. Or at least it stopped dyeing after we replaced it.
