I'm considering a D-Series build. It would be turbo charged and run about a 50 shot of nitrous.
What would be the best D-Series in your opinion and why?
I'm considering a D-Series build. It would be turbo charged and run about a 50 shot of nitrous.
What would be the best D-Series in your opinion and why?
D's nutts for sure.
Kidding aside, I guess it would depend on how much you were willing to change out. If you were trying to keep the stock pistons/rods I'd start with a lower compression non-vtec. That's what most of the B-series guys do anyway.
To tell the truth, I really just wanted to have an excuse to post "D's nutts"
Most of the hi power builds I have seen are based off of Z6's (92 to 95 )
Mine runs vitara pistons , Tuner toys rods , Skunk 2 cam , ARP Rod bolts, ARP head studs... pretty much everything I could do short of sleeving it.
The beauty is that 90% of my build is 2nd hand parts and still well within my 2010 Budget.
one of my GRM team mates is well over 500WHP on his daily driven EG coupe running a D with Vitara's. It hinkt he current record is over 650 WHP.
I'd say it depends on your budget. If you look around you can probably get a D15B7 for next to nothing. A D16Z6 will actually cost you a few hundred, but It'll make more power.
If you plan to build the motor for the boost then I'd have to say D16Z6. I'm struggling with a D15B7 (to stay in a certain class) and it's really limited on internals.
the problem (IMHO) is the lack of good rods for any D15. I have been offered a few of them , but aftermarket rods are scarce at best. FJT has been saying for years they are going to make them, nothing has come of it. I can find a set os used forged rods for a D16 all day long for $125.
My head has been ported and cheaned up , but nothing special. I paid $125 for ym Z6 and a Si Transmission.
The Head and Cam were $100 , I paid $60 for an ACT 6 puck (used) Fidanza flywheel and Si Trans.
Working on trading some junk for an STR D series sheet metal intake. last one I saw went for $80
spend the money on a new OEM oil pump. The rest is easy.
jwdmotorsports wrote: Any thoughts on the d16y8? I have a coworker that says it's the best of the best.
May have answered my own question. The Y8 is VTEC. The Z6 isn't. The numbers look about the same on both. I'm assuming that non-VTEC is easier but what do you gain by having VTEC?
jwdmotorsports wrote:jwdmotorsports wrote: Any thoughts on the d16y8? I have a coworker that says it's the best of the best.May have answered my own question. The Y8 is VTEC. The Z6 isn't. The numbers look about the same on both. I'm assuming that non-VTEC is easier but what do you gain by having VTEC?
You can say y0 whip crackz neckz y0.
The thing to watch out with Y8s is oiling issues at high rpms. The oil pump just isn't up to the task. Otherwise, it's a decent motor. I've seen them crack 12s in EK Civic with a bolt on turbo kit and a nice tune. I'm not sure i'd be ballsy enough to plumb a 50shot on TOP, but if you've got D's nuts, you can do anything.
Any D16 is a fine starting point. The A6 is simpler than the VTEC motors, and should in theory be more reliable because of it. The Y8 has slightly better ports than the others. The A6 and Y8 are easiest to run on OBD0. The Z6 is easiest to run on OBD1.
BTW -
D16A1 - DOHC, Non-VTEC, 88-89 Integra
D16A6 - SOHC, Non-VTEC, 88-91 Civic Si and EX and CRX Si
D16Z6 - SOHC, VTEC, 92-95 Civic Si and EX
D16Y8 - SOHC, VTEC, 96-00 Civic EX.
Talk to DILYSI Dave. He can get good power out of a D.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/high-compression-turbo-d16a6-take-2/9251/page1/
Edit, Dave posted between me reading the thread and posting .
AutoXR wrote: D16Z6 IS a Vtec Motor. if it's not someone has glued a vtec solenoid on my head
Well damn. I either read wrong or wikipedia is wrong.
jwdmotorsports wrote:AutoXR wrote: D16Z6 IS a Vtec Motor. if it's not someone has glued a vtec solenoid on my headWell damn. I either read wrong or wikipedia is wrong.
Either way, the D16z6 is definitely a Vtec motor.
Not to open a can of worms but................
Tell me the benifits of the DOHC A1 vs. SOHC versions.
wikipedia is wrong.
Sur-prise, Sur-prise. Yes, the Z6 has theee beeetec. The one in the s0upyaRturd has ~180k miles and bone friggin' stock internals that led a pretty abused life even before we got the car. I suppose the Vitara pistons would've been a good idear, but we haven't had any significant problems with it yet, (i.e., 'unintended ventilation') though we do have some weird mis-fire issue that we haven't chased down yet.
poopshovel wrote:wikipedia is wrong.Sur-prise, Sur-prise. Yes, the Z6 has theee beeetec. The one in the s0upyaRturd has ~180k miles and bone friggin' stock internals that led a pretty abused life even before we got the car. I suppose the Vitara pistons would've been a good idear, but we haven't had any significant problems with it yet, (i.e., 'unintended ventilation') though we do have some weird mis-fire issue that we haven't chased down yet.
youse guys kill me. you haven't fixed the one thing that kept you from winning the overall?
AngryCorvair wrote:poopshovel wrote:youse guys kill me. you haven't fixed the *one* thing that kept you from winning the overall?wikipedia is wrong.Sur-prise, Sur-prise. Yes, the Z6 has theee beeetec. The one in the s0upyaRturd has ~180k miles and bone friggin' stock internals that led a pretty abused life even before we got the car. I suppose the Vitara pistons would've been a good idear, but we haven't had any significant problems with it yet, (i.e., 'unintended ventilation') though we do have some weird mis-fire issue that we haven't chased down yet.
According to the new issue, we did win overall. So suck it. See also: Typical waynimalism. See also: "Yeah, yeah, I'll hook the nitrous up in a minute, just take another couple runs."
I have heard B18A rods fit the D series with a little grinding. I was wondering what is the difference between the D16Y8 and Y5 other then the lack of VTEC in the Y5.
Edit: I mean Y7.
I dont like D16Y8 bottom ends. I've just seen to many stock and boosted ones go boom for no good reason. I do NOT trust them :p
Build an A6 bottom or a Z6 bottom. Then Z6 or Y8 head.
http://www.sohchonda.com/forums/
http://www.d-series.org/ <this one is a better resource though.
Andrew
I'd vote D16A6... they are stupid cheap and can be found in very good condition at your average u-pull-it.
They are also super easy to do a junk yard turbo using a DSM turbo and a raising rate fuel regulator.
96DXCivic wrote: I have heard B18A rods fit the D series with a little grinding. I was wondering what is the difference between the D16Y8 and Y5 other then the lack of VTEC in the Y5.
I believe the modification is narrowing it to fit the D Series piston, and then bushing it to fit the 19mm wrist pin of the D vs. the 21mm wrist pin of the B.
One franken-D that I haven't built, but I want to, is a motor with Civic GX pistons. GX was the natural gas version. IIRC the pistons are 13.5:1 CR. They also fit the B18 Rod with no mods, as they had the bigger wrist pin. Conceivably, you can build a 13.5:1 D motor with unmodified OE parts.
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