Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
3/19/19 12:20 p.m.

This is probably something as easy as "the transmission isn't in park" but I'm a 4 hour round trip drive away from everything at the moment and I'm just trying to be ready the next time I'm able to work on it.


Every tutorial I've seen on the web shows a picture like this for removal and install of the cable.  It looks pretty easy.


Unfortunately, the transmission I have had the TV cable cut, and when I remove the housing and lift up on it, it looks like the braided cable is all the way in the transmission, so I can't see the end of the detent rod. I don't want everything to drop into the transmission or break something, so I'm playing it extra safe.

Do I have the transmission in drive or reverse or something, and would that make a difference? Am I just not pulling hard enough on the cable?

Vigo
Vigo UltimaDork
3/19/19 12:23 p.m.

Admittedly it's been a long time since I've dealt with that cable on a 700 but i dont ever remember it being as easy as that picture makes it look. I'd just remove the pan, honestly. 

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
3/19/19 1:10 p.m.

From the pan, I could only access the slot into the plunger in the transmission. It was a pain to remove, so I either did that wrong, that's not the way to do it, or both.

maschinenbau
maschinenbau GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/19/19 3:24 p.m.

I just did this recently on a TH350 and all I remember was that it sucked. I was in park the whole time and it never crossed my mind to try a different gear, so maybe it's worth a try. It was really hard to pull on both the cable and the rod to get them to mate back together. Needle nose pliers one hand, blood grease dirt and the cable in the other. Plus, access to that area in-vehicle was tight. Best of luck.

Curtis
Curtis GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
3/21/19 10:51 a.m.

I haven't encountered much trouble doing it the way your picture shows.  The kickdown cable (as far as I remember) doesn't get affected by shifter position, so park should be just fine.

One of the big things is to remove the adjuster out of the carb bracket first.  That way you can slide the sheath up a bit once you take the bolt out at the trans. (not an issue for you, but in general)

That picture is a bit deceiving.  The little rod in the transmission doesn't stay poked up like that by itself.  It will fall back in requiring the pan to come off unless you're really lucky with a hook pick.

The way I do it is this:

1- remove the cable adjuster from the throttle bracket
2- remove the bolt holding it in the transmission.  (I realize you are already past this step since your cable was cut)
3- work the cable up out of the transmission.  Once it is out you should be able to lift the cable up high enough to see the rod.  Notice I said "should."  It doesn't always work that way.  I often wondered if they used different parts based on application
4- slide a nail, pick, or needle-nose vise grips under the bent part of the rod and take the cable off.

9 times out of ten, I have the pan off anyway, so I just do it that way.  My guess is that its possible the reason yours was cut was because there was something wrong inside?  I have seen it before where the cable snaps and it pops the rod down and it gets caught on the case or the valve body.

I hate to say it, but if you're not able to see the end of the rod, I think a pan removal is in order.

For re-install and adjustment, there are multiple videos about it, but its pretty simple.  You install it in the bracket fully loosened, then floor the pedal and it will ratchet to the right spot.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
3/21/19 2:35 p.m.

Thanks, Curtis!

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