Duratec 2.5 into '01 B2300 complete but No Fuel

Hey all, I'd love some input on what else I may be missing.

I have an '01 B2300 that I bought w/ a perforated block/pan, and have finished swapping a '14 2.5 from a fusion in its place. I've re-used most of the ranger bits to just get it running on the stock computer for now.  Long term includes custom terblo setup w/ a megasquirt dual install w/ stock ecu, but I want to be able to use it in the mean time while sorting the upcoming axle swap/suspension/interior refresh/etc.

Yesterday I attempted first start, but no dice. I seem to have spark. Motor cranks w/ compression just fine. I do not seem to have fuel.

I was able to start the (old) motor previously (loud and messy!) just to confirm that the rest of systems worked, but that was over a year ago.

By the end of the day yesterday when I attempted first start, I only had a little time left for diagnosing. Results so far:

• I could not hear the fuel pump run at any point throughout testing
• Using the diagnostic port on the end of the fuel rail, it does not seem to have any pressure built up. We initially thought it might be air in the fuel line that needed to be evacuated, but jumping the fuel pump relay (definitely a good connection, sparks and the jumper wire got hot), still didn't lead to any noticeable air pressure or fuel escaping the port at the end of the rail.

It seems like the fuel pump may be dead. Does that make sense after sitting for at least a year, and more before that? It didn't seem like the PATS was causing the issue, but I guess it could be if it's preventing the fuel pump in addition to the injectors. 

Basically, I'd love some ideas on how to diagnose the no-start before I proceed w/ dropping the tank and swapping the pump. 

Thanks!

Check for 12v at the pump first to point you to either a reason that 12v isn’t getting there, or a bad pump, which would not be surprising at 18 years old and however many miles and sitting for a year.  It probably isn’t even that hard to change if you lift the bed off. 

Thanks, Sonic, I should have added that to the first thing to check next. I'm not sure I can get at the connection for the pump without dropping the tank/lifting the bed. Not sure which would be harder at this point.

So, if it's getting 12v, it's obviously the pump. For the sake of diagnostic process, assume it's not getting 12V.  What's next on these?

If you have power out of the relay but not at the pump then it's wires between the two. If the relay isn't switching on then you start to look at what the computer wants to see before turning the pump on.

bluej said:

Thanks, Sonic, I should have added that to the first thing to check next. I'm not sure I can get at the connection for the pump without dropping the tank/lifting the bed. Not sure which would be harder at this point.

So, if it's getting 12v, it's obviously the pump. For the sake of diagnostic process, assume it's not getting 12V.  What's next on these?

Removing the begin a ranger is super easy. Just pull the visible bolts in the bed, tail light wiring and fuel filler neck. I’ve done it pretty easy in rusty old Michigan ha ha

joey48442 said:

bluej said:

Thanks, Sonic, I should have added that to the first thing to check next. I'm not sure I can get at the connection for the pump without dropping the tank/lifting the bed. Not sure which would be harder at this point.

So, if it's getting 12v, it's obviously the pump. For the sake of diagnostic process, assume it's not getting 12V.  What's next on these?

Removing the begin a ranger is super easy. Just pull the visible bolts in the bed, tail light wiring and fuel filler neck. I’ve done it pretty easy in rusty old Michigan ha ha

That's good to know. It would mean I'd have to clean all the crap off the shelf*cough* tonneau! cover on the bed. I could probably use the max-jax to help as a shortcut for lifting it all, though. 

mazdeuce - Seth said:

If you have power out of the relay but not at the pump then it's wires between the two. If the relay isn't switching on then you start to look at what the computer wants to see before turning the pump on.

Right, was hoping someone more familiar with these could point towards where to start looking at for what the comp is wanting but not getting (PATS? Other sensor/module?). Thanks, though!

I bought a non running 02 ranger. No fuel pump. Found out the reset button for it had failed, not allowing the pump to run. Which explained why it was sold as a bad ecm after pump replacement. 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

I bought a non running 02 ranger. No fuel pump. Found out the reset button for it had failed, not allowing the pump to run. Which explained why it was sold as a bad ecm after pump replacement. 

is the "reset button" the intertia switch? just came here to post I had forgotten about it, but i'm going to check there next, since it's the easiest. thanks!

I REALLy hope it's just that.

Inertia switch is under the kick plate in the passenger footwell. Definitely start there. Honestly, my gut says fuel pump since you can't hear it and they're not immune to failure, but the inertia switch is faster and easier to check and cheaper if it's bad.

If the pump is bad, and your future plans are fairly close on the horizon, it might make sense to just upgrade the fuel pump now. Walbro's fit nicely FYI.

The 2.5 has VVT right? I'll be curious to see if/how well the Ranger PCM handles basic operation once you get the fuel flowing.

Good point re: upgraded pump.

Re:vvt, i ended up reusing the whole cam and timing setup from the 2.3 non vvt. The cam position sensor setup is different and wouod have required programming or swapping the pcm. I had plans to try and use the variable runner flap circuit to trigger the vvt instead, until i noticed the cam teeth difference .

It's not the inertia switch :-/