Buddy is looking at E36's for a track car and this one came up
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/276120049546984
Its down to 2800 bucks now, I know that the 328 is more desirable but is this a jump on it deal assuming it doesn't have a bunch of deferred maintenance or a problem?
325i have better intake manifold and thus make about the same power despite less displacement. The 92 (dunno what year that one is) did not have vanos and some prefer that, but I think you should get vanos for the extra power under the curve, but almost no top end difference.
Assuming those wheels are 18x9 or 10 they are about the best e36 wheels to get on a budget. 285/30/18 tires are about as good as you can do for e36 without major surgery. 17s I think look better but there are no better tire sizes in 17.
Aftermarket mirrors and bumper turn me off a bit on that one, but the seats might be a plus.
Check for LSD by lifting the rear in neutral and spinning one wheel. If the other goes the same way it is LSD, if it goes opposite, it's open. Of course check for torn rear subframe or records of fix (or both).
They're great cars.
Forgot to mention: 325i is obd1 if that matters for you in tuning (cheap chips) or emmissions. Also, traction control didn't become a thing on e36 until 95 I think.
You're not fitting 285's on an E36 without taking a sawzall to the fenders. Best you can fit without major work (and this still requires major fender rolling) are 255-40-17's.
Traction control started in 1996, but is easily removed.
Assume that you're going to immediately have to replace the entire cooling system and all the suspension bushings. Easy to go and not very expensive.
So would you shy away from this one and seek out newer 328/vanos etc? Having ultimate power I don't think is going to be my buddies concern for now. I agree on the cooling system and checking out the suspension pockets etc.
Ive heard doing suspension bushings is a huge pain in the butt on almost every car?
Its 1992
"
183,000 Miles
Manual Transmission
1992 bmw 325i that I use for autox/autocross 5-speed TOKICO Illumina adjustible coilovers Ground Control springs Vorshlag camber plates Racing seats 4-point harness no radio 160k miles Inline 6 cylinder VA car, I've owned 7+ years and used for auto-x. The car runs fantastic and rides well. I've replace many parts/bushings/mounts throughout the years; it hasn't needed anything for months now even with a few race events. I drive it to and from events all the time, I've even taken it to Chicago and back a few times. No trades. This would make a good track car as well. Less"
In reply to docwyte :
Well, I wouldn't expect to bolt on a set of either and go, but 285/30 18 IS shorter than 255/40 17. (and shorter than stock I think too). Use stiff springs, exact backspacing, and careful ride height adjustment.
Seems like a good deal to me, given the mods and the updates he's made.
The 1992 motor is really peaky without the VANOS. I had one, and it was anemic at lower RPMs, then came on hard. I think for a track car it's probably no problem. For a street car... I would get dusted coming onto on ramps by Hyundai Tiburons.
THe upside is that you don't have to service the VANOS, and some of the 92s didn't have pass airbags, and this were lighter than any other E36.
If the RTABs haven't been done, do them with OE bushings and the limiters (or if it's going to be a track car only, maybe something harder). It made a big difference in rear end slop, suprisingly.
RTABS?
Jaynen said:RTABS?
Rear trailing arm bushing (s)
I'm not a fan of the Tokico's. I've successfully run Koni's on all three of my M3's, two E36's and one E46. They seem to be the best until you spend real money and buy a set of MCS's or the like.
Just read that Vorshlag thread. Not sure if I'm just missing it, but there's nothing there where they successfully ran a 285-30-18. They say to fit a 265-35-18 they had to do major hammer/dolly work, much more than rolling the fenders just to get those to barely fit. Plus run the proper back spacing, higher spring rates, etc. So, what am I missing there?
For practical purposes, 255-40-17 is the most you're gonna fit, without major work. At that point you might as well pick up a set of the Hard Motorsport flares and your sawzall so you can fit anywhere from 275-40-17 R7's to 305-30-18's.
My buddy would be fine with the 255 plus on a track day you need the suuuper wide tire less than on autocross where frontal area and drag is not a thing. I would not choose the toxico's but I guess its better than stock
I had a 93' 325is (179,000) miles that I tracked last year. 2 days at VIR. 2 at CMP and 2 at NCCAR. Paid $2,900 for it. Gave it full cooling fan delete treatment and probably a few other maintenance related repairs. Already had lowering springs, BBS wheels and quick release Momo steering wheel. Otherwise stock including LSD. IMO these are fun cars. Big horsepower cars will eat them up in the straights but can stay on their bumper through the twistys. A friend of mine with a lot of track experience and a savage behind the wheel, took me for a ride in my car and it was capable of so much more than I ever subjected it to. It's all about keeping the revs vs. the gear you're in - in the sweet spot. It was astonishing really.
Just don't get your hopes up it will be a trouble free car. It will most certainly need attention in one way or another.
Sold mine less than a year after I bought it for $2,700.
My buddy is actually looking forward to learning about cars from doing some wrenching so I would not be too concerned as long as it isnt a constant money pit
Oh, it could possibly be a constant money pit. It just depends on what size pit he can tolerate or is willing to dig.
And yes, these are good cars to learn a few wrenching skills on. So there's that.
And the price for this car is definitely walk away money. Wad it up? Walk away.
245 race tires run really wide, Hoosier R7's or BFG R1's are far larger than a street 245. My car has aggressively rolled fenders and I still get minor rubbing with 245 R7's...
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