Damnit!!!
Ordered
chandlerGTi wrote: I had the harbor freight one then the Eastwood one and now have the Powered by max one. Harbor freight and Eastwood were identical and will not do a well lowered car or one with strong US metal fenders. The powered by max one will do a lowered car but also won't do strong US metal fenders. I found that starting it with a small hammer was enough to get it to go but it will not flatten them either way. Best bet is to trim the metal instead.
That was my exact experience as well.
Woody wrote:bravenrace wrote:So what you're saying is that I should just go ahead and use a bat and hammer on the 911 then?JG Pasterjak wrote:Not really. But the eastwood tool couldn't roll the fenders lips on my mustang without distorting. Even then I wasn't able to get them rolled as far as I needed. I used a bat to finish the job the eastwood tool didn't.bravenrace wrote: In reply to JG Pasterjak: I can't say I agree.You have bat skills that I do not possess, in that case.
Either is just a hack job. The right answer would be more fender.
I actually had a pair of fiberglass fenders for the car. I listed them on Pelican for four times what I paid for them and they were sold within half an hour.
Using coupon code 1EM2613 then adding the roller and finishing tool separately gets you both for about $145 shipped CONUS.
I did my Dynasty with one of those Eastwood ones that i borrowed from a local guy. It definitely requires you to be methodical. And i will posit that overly floppy fenders are probably more of a hassle than super-strong ones because they are easier to mess up.
Overall the main thing i noticed is that the tool is not that strong before it starts distorting. That's not really a big deal because you need to go slowly and in stages anyway, and if you built one that WAS strong and wouldnt deflect, i personally wouldnt sell it for less than $400.
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