Edmunds.com pricing - anyone ever actually get it?

I'm about to close on a used 4Runner for appliance duty. Pricing is killing me. My understanding of Edmunds.com pricing is that it represents closing prices, so paying the Edmunds price means I negotiated to an average deal. I've walked out of several dealerships who all claim they have more in their truck than the Edmunds retail value. The closest I've negotiated to is $22,000 on a truck that Edmunds has at $19,400. I have similar experiences every few years, but this time is the worst.

At this point, I wonder if I'm just a crap negotiator, or if Edmunds.com is steering me wrong.

Wrong time of the month, go back on the 30th about two hours before closing. That is deal time at most car lots.

Paul B

If they are close to the honest edmunds price take it. If not walk unless you really want it than stop looking at the price.

The end of the month is overblown these days 1st week is slow we tend to work harder when its slow.

On edit I re-read the original post and realized you are talking used. I guess the info on my trade being higher than Edmunds may indicate the dealer may have more into it than Edmunds says its worth.

In April I bought a 2011 Elantra and traded in a 2003 Forester XS. It was the last week of April and they were anxious to get the paper work in before the end of the month, but claimed it was due to incentives.

Edmunds had a price of $18,340 for the Elantra and a trade in of $3200 for the Forester, making the difference $15,140. My price was $13,000 after trade, not including tax, title and registration.

During negotiation it was $18K for the Elantra and $5K for the Subaru, but on the final write up it was $17K for the Elantra and $4K for the Subaru. I suspect that was for their accounting purposes. The total amount came out the same so I didn't care.

The Subaru had 120K miles on it, needed tires, rear pads and rotors, detailing, and an A/C compressor clutch.

I also lucked out and was there the same time as their wholesaler, and the wholesale wanted my Subaru.

I typically won't buy unless I can get it for somewhere between trade in and wholesale.

the is300 I was looking at was right on the money with edmunds pricing somehow. clean black/black 5 speed car, I think it was an 01. 9k two years ago

Edmunds is useless as is KBB. Dealers use Black Book and MMR for wholesale values. Banks use NADA. Last day of the month is true at my place but most places give cars away when they are over 30 days old. Used cars are very expensive for dealers to buy now. Do not expect to steal a hot piece that is new in inventory.

Not used, but maybe this helps?

About 10 years ago, I found a new Ford Focus wagon that was almost exactly what I wanted (key options being a manual trans. and ABS). I e-mailed the dealer and they came back with a minimal discount off MSRP. I mean, just subtracting a rebate would have gotten me a lower price than what the dealership FIRST offered. I then clarified all the different rebates I was eligible for (I seem to remember that there were actually 2 I was eligible for) and e-mailed my "counter-offer". The dealership's sales manager e-mailed back "pretending" to be unaware of all the rebates I might be entitled to and then finally e-mailed a price offer that was $100 HIGHER than the price Edmunds.com suggested was the "True Market Price" for this car in my area.

But I agree with others here, time of month, time of year, shortage or glut of inventory will go to determining how close you might get to the price suggested by Edmunds.

as others have noted, the guides are just that, guides. They aren't 100% at any time. Used car prices are insane right now and the guides aren't catching up to that quickly.

The easiest way to determine if you've got the right deal is put your offer on the table and if they say no, walk out. If they let you walk then they really can't meet that price. But if you've done your research and feel the number is fair, keep walking or bump your offer up. But I've never had a dealer let me walk out when I've made a fair offer based on some solid research.

JThw8 wrote: as others have noted, the guides are just that, guides. They aren't 100% at any time. Used car prices are insane right now and the guides aren't catching up to that quickly. The easiest way to determine if you've got the right deal is put your offer on the table and if they say no, walk out. If they let you walk then they really can't meet that price. But if you've done your research and feel the number is fair, keep walking or bump your offer up. But I've never had a dealer let me walk out when I've made a fair offer based on some solid research.

I'll add to the walk out part: walk out and allow a couple hours at home for them to call you and let you know your offer sounds alot more reasonable after some consideration.
this is how we got the trooper for 5k under what they originally wanted for it. they brought it down from 7k to 4.5k, we said 2k and they said no way. told em to call if they changed their minds.
of course they called.
as a footnote, the car had been there for a while, but it was deep "winter" (nc) and I would think a 4x4 would sell very well then, especially since it was right before the major gas crisis began