Anyone have experience with Moroso electric water pumps? I'm looking at a used one on CL. Its the type with a ribbed case and flat front. They don't make this exact one any more, but's here's an ebay link to one that's just like it. I'm paying much less than this guy's asking.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moroso-Aluminum-Electric-Water-Pump-SB-Chevy-SBC-/400243630228?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d30612094
It's my impression that these are intended for drag-racing, in other words, to be used for only a couple hours and then shut down. AFAIK, they are Not intended for 1000s of hours of operation in a typical car, and will quickly wear out ("quickly" is of unknown duration, but you can't just put it in a street car and forget about it.)
Several of the CP cars run electric water pumps with no issues in autox. People have used them on the street with mixed results. At low speeds they help cooling, but may not keep up at higher speeds like on the highway, not enough coolant flow. But they are great for cooling between runs.
Stock mechanical water pumps (SBC, long style) flow around 80-90 gph, while most electric pumps are 55 gph or lower.
81cpcamaro wrote: Several of the CP cars run electric water pumps with no issues in autox. People have used them on the street with mixed results. At low speeds they help cooling, but may not keep up at higher speeds like on the highway, not enough coolant flow. But they are great for cooling between runs. Stock mechanical water pumps (SBC, long style) flow around 80-90 gph, while most electric pumps are 55 gph or lower.
Id be inclined to think that if you opened up the grille opening, added a larger radiator, increased the length of cooling line (therefore increasing coolant capacity), added an oil cooler, added redirection plates to increase airflow thru the radiator, or any of several dozen other means of increasing cooling capability, youd probably be alright on a DD. The pump is only part of the system, make the system better, a lower production pump may not be a problem...if it doesnt eat itself from overuse 
Power is power; whether it's going into a belt driving a water pump or a belt driving an alternator producing alternating current being converted to direct current to drive an electric motor to turn a water pump.
Although I have no first hand experience, I'm guessing that the real purpose for an electric water pump is so that the drag car's engine doesn't have to power either the water pump or alternator and the electric pump runs on the battery. Then they just charge the battery during the down time between runs?
Ross is correct there original purpose was total loss electric system in drag cars. Some do run them on the road with luck but I'd suspect they tune it down or place block under the loud pedal
Actually I'm dealing with a clearance issue, not looking for power. The belt drive runs through the fender well and is giving me a tire clearance issue, and my need to add bigger tires is only gonna make it worse. If someone at Moroso would answer the phone, I wouldn't have to bother you guys with this stuff.
In the thread long ago about switching to a electrohydraulic p/s pump there were some dyno numbers posted by a road race Integra. There was an 8HP loss from the mechanical pump, but only 10ths of a HP loss from increased alternator load of running the electric pump.
Now if I could find an electric water pump for as cheap as I found my MR2 p/s pump ($35) I would convert.
Cone_Junky wrote: In the thread long ago about switching to a electrohydraulic p/s pump there were some dyno numbers posted by a road race Integra. There was an 8HP loss from the mechanical pump, but only 10ths of a HP loss from increased alternator load of running the electric pump. Now if I could find an electric water pump for as cheap as I found my MR2 p/s pump ($35) I would convert.
If you assume that the pumps are similarly efficient, this cannot be possible unless one was moving far less fluid (or at a much lower pressure) with one versus the other. All else being equal, an electric pump draws more power because it has to generate electricity with the belt then turn it back into mechanical energy. As the OP said, though, he doesn't care.
I run an electric water pump on the street in my daily driver. It's awesome. I use a Mezeire and also hear great things about davies craig units but mostly the load dependent speed controllers.
A standard electric water pump runs one speed all the time. Mine moves 20 gallons per minute. They are avaliable up to 55gpm. Choose the amount of water flow you need and go from there. What does a standard water pump flow? at what RPM? No one seems to know! All I know is that mine is the smallest I could find and it is still oversized.
As far as reliablility Meziere says 3000+ hour life expectancy. So if I was going to drive the car non-stop at 60mph it would last 180,000 miles. Even cutting that number in half is still damn reliable.
As far as power increases. Up in the air. The fiat water pump is notoriously inneficient and also turns the fan so getting that off of the crank freed up something I am sure.
ditchdigger wrote: What does a standard water pump flow? at what RPM? No one seems to know! All I know is that mine is the smallest I could find and it is still oversized.
Per this link: http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_1.htm Stewart hi-flow pumps flow up to 180 gph, using only 2.26 hp at 4K rpms. This is for SBCs, stock pumps flow about 80+ gph.
Most of the electric pumps out there are pretty good, not nearly as bad as they were when they first came out.
One big problem with belt driven CHEAP pumps is there not designed to run at high rpm at all. They will cavatate and suck up power but if you invest in a "racing pump" like a SW you'll use less power and cool better.
There was an 8HP loss from the mechanical pump, but only 10ths of a HP loss from increased alternator load of running the electric pump.
That's physically impossible IF the pumps were doing the same amount of work, which they probably weren't. But anyway, having a battery in between the alternator and the electric water pump is gonna muddy the power consumption unless some more data points are taken into account.
Other than clearance advantages i see the main advantage of an electric water pump being that you could control its speed independently from the engine. Sort of defeats the purpose of a thermostat and could overall be more efficient.
Looks like a canoe resurrection?
In the 8 years since this thread was made, some factory cars have started to come with electric water pumps (including all liquid-cooled EVs). They're awesome, the only downside is the price. Also beware that the aftermarket models REALLY don't like vibration, so you should avoid solid-mounting them with metal brackets - it's better to hang them with some nice soft exhaust hangers.
Yeah, i think the post that brought this to the top before i responded to it is now missing. Given that i can't remember what was in it I can't 100% say this isn't totally my fault...?
A relatively lower-flowing electric coolant pump for the inverter system (not the engine) on my old 07 Prius made it 270k miles of 100% DC before failing, so clearly they were able to make reliable electric pumps at least as far back as 2007. 
And it WAS mounted on rubber dampers. 
I was thinking of going with an electric water pump, lots of advantages.
The thing with an alternator is you can disable charging when accelerating, can't do that with a mechanical waterpump.
Related note, I saw my Volvo uses an electric power steering pump, not an electric powered steering rack.
BMW is using them, but omg they are like $300-$600 ?? I have trying to come up with a diy setup that would be reliable..
Which Volvo is this? Electric power steering pumps are very hard to find, people are fighting over the last remaining SW20 MR2 units.
Everybody wants a good electric power steering system, but few people want the difficulty of swapping in a direct-drive EPS rack or column...
You'll need to log in to post.
