Engine hose

Apparently I've been extremely lucky and haven't had to replace an engine hose in a long, long time. Is it supposed to be this hard?

The hose is 1" and so is the barb. Does this mean I have the wrong size hose or are you supposed to have to use some non-rubber degrading lubricant like dish soap and just force it up on there?

Am I just a woosie baby?

Light coat of Dawn to both parts

Wait till sharp parts start stabbing your hands trying to get it on. You'll hate that hose even more.

The OD of the hose is 1" whereas the barb is 1.025". The old hose looked distended so I thought I was getting near the failure point, but I see that it's distended because it was forced on.

I would have to expand the hose the full thickness of the material the hose if made out of which is over a quarter of an inch (both sides combined). That seems like it's too much.

Fortunately there are no sharp parts nearby, except when I have maximum pressure applied and something slips and my hand goes who knows where.

The 1" hose is cut to length off a big roll, but on the other hand the formed hose I'm replacing just goes on with a minor amount of pressure. That's what I remember, not having to use mega force.

boil a cup of water in the microwave to full boil place next to hose barb soak hose for a minute or two pull out of water (move cup to avoid burns) and while burning hot jam that sucker on the barb.

44Dwarf wrote: boil a cup of water in the microwave to full boil place next to hose barb soak hose for a minute or two pull out of water (move cup to avoid burns) and while burning hot jam that sucker on the barb.

Sounds like a plan. Between that and the dish soap it ought to go on. My question was more of SHOULD it go on, but I'm guessing that it's just that I haven't replaced a hose of this nature in so long I'd forgotten how difficult it was.

So the correct answer is I'm a woosie baby.

You mean "Wussy"?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=wussy&defid=2791264

Combination of "wimp" and the "p" word.

silicone lube (not the spray stuff, the grease) works wonders for heater core hoses and the like, should also work here. It makes a GIGANTIC difference

That's not right. The ID of the hose should be about equal to the OD of the barb...

~on the lands between the raised "barbs"~

OD of barb larger than OD of hose is more interference than is necessary or correct.

I've used a lot of the Earl's push-fit AN fittings and hose lately. On these the OD of the nose of the barb is essentially the ID of the hose. The barb OD is a bit less than hose OD.

I put the fitting in a vise fitted with soft jaws, lubricate the inside of the hose w/ assembly oil, heat it with a heat gun, then wearing a welding glove, push it on while twisting.

Once the hose has been trial fitted and where the ends are clocked is set, I crimp on Oetiker clamps.

Oh yeah - slip the Oetikers over the hose before pushing it on to the second end, 'cause they don't come apart once they're pushed together.

get the right hose for the application..

KY jelly is probably better than Dawn for this application. The spouse has never asked me why I keep a tube in my toolbox.