So I have a '91 MR2 Turbo. After the car broke a ringland a few years back, I rebuild the bottom end with forged pistons /Rods, Cometic .051" Head gasket, had the bottomend balanced, Lightweight Flywheel, upgraded clutch, 3" stainless exhaust, HKS Intercooler (really don't care for), coilovers, intake, tune up Ect.
I've noticed the car has oil on the bottom of the engine, and I'm assuming the compressor seals are beginning to leak. When I built the engine my goal was to to make it a fun good weather daily with around 300-350hp. I almost went with a Gen 4 swap, as its the best flowing head, strongest block, has coil on plug ignition, and puts out 260hp as a starting point. What my thinking is, if I get a 4th Gen engine, swap my forged pistons to it & reseal the engine and call it a day with bolt ons. A 4th Gen is ~1000, and a wiring harness is $500 from Wiregap. Input please. If I continue upgrading the Gen 2, I'm gonna need injectors, a fuel rail, turbo, and ECU... Which I'd really be interested in doing a MS on it, as I'm familiar with it. Input please.
I like that 4th gen. There are concerns, though. Note that the exhaust manifold is the turbine housing and is made from unobtainium. Wiring is pretty complex. I did the harness myself, and the bundle of wires was as big as my wrist. If someone offers a plug and play option for your car for five bills, it's worth it.
I don’t know if I would swap and rebuild and reseal for that amount of power. Seems like the easy button is home brew turbo setup with MS. You’re already at an advantage with having MS knowledge. Plus, you’ll be ahead financially and in time. That’s money and time spent toward improving yourself in the seat.
Coming from a guy that has had 14 MR2s, including a 3SGTE Mk1, a 300HP Gen 3, etc....the best one I ever had was a 1MZ V6.
I built it as a ratty, just-for-giggles car and it was AWESOME.
I will do another MR2, but I'll never do another one with a 3SGTE. The V6 is just more fun all-around, even if it has less peak HP.
Only sad thing about the 1MZ is that they don't hold up terribly well when you get bored and add boost. From what a friend who's boosted a few says, 4 psi (in Eaton M90 form) is fine, going for much more leads to a short life for the rings and lots of oil consumption.
sometimes if you let it, the car will decide for you! (see my white smoke & massive oil consumption as an example)
rslifkin said:
Only sad thing about the 1MZ is that they don't hold up terribly well when you get bored and add boost. From what a friend who's boosted a few says, 4 psi (in Eaton M90 form) is fine, going for much more leads to a short life for the rings and lots of oil consumption.
When a 1MZ won't do it, you go 3MZ or 2GR. Adding boost to an NA defeats the purpose, and nothing about the 1MZ is built for forced induction. If you want a boost, then the Gen3 / Gen4 is the way to go.
The 3S-GTE is an awesome turbo motor, and nutso builds with 5SFE stroker cranks are always cool- but I gotta echo praises for the 2GR-FE in ANY MR2, just simply because I have never heard a single person want to return to the turbo-4 setups afterwards. 300 lb-feet of torque- reliably- with 25-30 MPG is hard to beat and you'll loose a lot of weight with the aluminum block.
Why are built blocks so common in the MR2 world? I see that a lot with small stock sized turbos. I'd probably go Gen4 and just leave it alone and spend the money having a pro tune it. Trying to swap forged slugs to a different block is asking for potential problems IMO. 2GR sounds like it would make for a really fun car too.
Why not go K20/24 like it seems alot of MR2's are going?
Current Turbos up for consideration are Garrett GT2860RS/2871R, T3/T04E 46 trim .63 Exhaust, and a 16G upgraded CT-26. Leaning towards the First two as I'm seeking useable street power, not a Max HP setup. Megasquirt, injectors, and a new turbo should really revive the car!
