Need to know if anyone knows a source of mustang II spindles that use C5/6 hubs?I'm not having much luck.Does anyone here have experience fabricating spindles or any place that does?It's for an awd project with an existing suspension.Thanks for any help..
Why C5/6 hubs/bearings? You probably won't find any mustang II spindles set up for any bolt on hub/bearing assemblies. If you just mean the bolt pattern, I'm pretty sure you can get plain hubs for separate rotors.
Some of the people on the two locost boards (http://www.locostusa.com/forums/ and http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/) build their uprights, might look there.
canoe!
-J0N
canoe gone 
Theres a guy on pro-touring that built his own. So it can be done. Dont know anything about actually doing it though
These days they're usually CNC'd from some kind of aircraft-aluminum alloy. That's what I plan to do.
I've seen fabricated spindles in the Coleman catalogs, maybe they have something.
I'm building an awd amc hornet with a 4.0 and a T5.I can used all stock amc eagle awd parts as they are a bolt in.As easy an awd american car build that I know of.The hornet all ready sits quite high and the eagle suspension raises it 4" more.I plan to build it so it's real low.I could raise the crossmember but that would raise the engine and it wouldn't clear the hood.The mustang II spindle is a bolt in for a rwd hornet.All that is required is the ream the spindle to fit the amc lower ball joint.This is a relatively easy way to lower and add rack and pinion steering.My thought is if I fabricated a mustang II spindle to take the vette's rear hub I could bolt use them with the stock rwd crossmember by making room for axles.I could use the stock eagle hubs on a fabricated spindle as well but less brake options. All in all a pretty realistic way to get awd.
Yeah, that's gonna have to be custom.
I have a paddle for my canoe 
Pretty sure I would use the Cherokee sealed hub/bearings myself.
I agree the vette piece isn't a very good idea for this project.It would be nice to use the eagle spindle but it's cast and very long.If I found someone I could trust my life with to shorten and weld the stock eagle spindle that would work. The first series amc eagle was built using the concord station wagon.It was the same platform the hornet used.If I didn't want to build my hornet super low I could bolt on the parts needed.I will need to either modify the existing transmission hump area for the transfer case to clear or cut that section from a junked eagle floor pan.
Any thoughts on shortening the stock amc eagle spindle 4" would be most helpful.
That Locost link actually makes that look fairly straight forward. Not that I have a reason for this but I will have to remember that post.
That Locost page is pretty neat. If you get the book 'Motorcycle Engined Race Cars' http://www.amazon.com/Build-Motorcycle-engined-Racing-SpeedPro-Series/dp/1845841239 it has excellent information on building both driven and non driven spindles/uprights from sheet steel.
I've really looked into building a locost in the past decade.I bought the first book on the subject.I just decided with our weather here it wasn't for me.I'll check out the book mentioned.
How far off are the4wd S10 uprights from working? I don't remember them being overly tall
The stock eagle was lifted 3" higher then the stock hornet.The spindle was made longer to make up for this change.The spindle is a lot longer measured from the spindle centerline to the spindle top.The more I look at the cars I have here it looks like the most cost effective solution would be to raise the inner fenderwells up 3" to lower back to hornet spec.The top control arm bolts to the inner fenderwell like the first generation mustang/falcon.
Got a picture of the stock Eagle upright?
Vast difference between upright loads seen by a lightweight Locost on pavement and an AWD Hornet that may see some offroad duty.
There's a reason most OEM uprights are forged or cast, and it's more than just cost.
It's easy to do modeling nowdays, still not so easy to determine real world max loading use cases to test your model with.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/83-amc-eagle_topic59576.htmlHere's a link to the best pictures I could find.
erohslc this car will never see any off road use unless I lose it.I'd like about 5" ground clearance.If you google "off road racing fabricated spindle" you'll find a lot heavier vehicles then a hornet that are subject to extreme abuse running fabricated spindles.
So you need the distance from the ball joint to the caliper bracket to be 3" shorter?
4WD Dakotas use a similar setup just to give you something to look for, probably won't be much help though.
Yes it needs to be shorter.I found a site where a guy was swapping Jeep wrangler Dana 30 solid axle knuckles on an eagle.He says amc made them and they share some parts.He hasn't put it together yet though.They are a lot shorter knuckle/spindle so maybe he's on to something. Keep the ideas coming guys....
What you really need to do, if you want it to handle worth a damn, is either fabricate a spindle (and possibly arms) to fit the stock pickup points, or pick a factory spindle and design your way back to the chassis, or possibly get lucky and find a spindle that gives good goemtry with the current arms and mouting points
Definitely post on the locostusa forums if you haven't already, those guys do the same thing you want to in terms of suspension, its step one of building a 7.
Kenny_McCormic that was my plan A.I see no need to reinvent the wheel when the stock suspension handles acceptably well for my needs.I'd like to find someone that's fabricated spindles before.I'll check out the locost list.I worked at a fab/machine shop and can still work on my projects there.Only manual machines,no cnc.The owner can fabricate,weld or machine about anything.He has the skill set just hasn't fabricated spindles before.He's owned/operated his shop since the 60's.
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