Kenny_McCormic wrote: V8 swap RX7?

Beat me to it...

6 with your choice of V8...

bigmackloud wrote: I miss the days of doing fun simple mods, haha.

Buy Miata or E36 BMW.

Ensure maintenance is up to date.

Add safety equipment, wheels/tires, brakes/suspension.

Enjoy.

I'd go with the S2K, with a E36 M3 as a second choice. The S2K would be the easy button, but a bit pricier. The M3 will require more hands-on maintenance, but I don't necessarily think it'll be that expensive if you go aftermarket.

While the Miata is the obvious budget choice, if you don't dig 'em then don't worry about it.

Matt B wrote: I'd go with the S2K, with a E36 M3 as a second choice. The S2K would be the easy button, but a bit pricier. The M3 will require more hands-on maintenance, but I don't necessarily think it'll be that expensive if you go aftermarket. While the Miata is the obvious budget choice, if you don't dig 'em then don't worry about it.

Is $10k going to be enough to buy an S2K, add safety equipment and proper brakes?

z31maniac wrote:

Matt B wrote: I'd go with the S2K, with a E36 M3 as a second choice. The S2K would be the easy button, but a bit pricier. The M3 will require more hands-on maintenance, but I don't necessarily think it'll be that expensive if you go aftermarket. While the Miata is the obvious budget choice, if you don't dig 'em then don't worry about it.

Is $10k going to be enough to buy an S2K, add safety equipment and proper brakes?

Probably, but it probably will either have a ton of miles, or have been in a wreck at some point in its life.

99-04 Mustang GT.

Mild modifications will make it track-worthy and still relatively comfortable to drive.

bigmackloud wrote:

e_pie wrote: S2000 would give you the best balance of speed/fun with the least amount of headache/cost of anything that list IMO. They go well north of 100K with zero issues, typical Honda reliability.

I like the S2K, but I'm not sure they fit my budget. Just browsing CL, I found an '03 with 110k for $10.5K. Leaves no budget for any mods. For street use, I agree the S2k motor is pretty reliable. Would you feel comfortable beating a higher mileage unit on the track though? (Honest question) I was a service advisor at a Honda dealer for several years. We really didn't get many S2K's, even fewer with high miles. The ones we did get with problems had always been over-revved and bent the valves. How rare are the hardtops?

I wouldn't feel any hesitation beating on a high mileage Honda, I've autox'd a 200k mile CRX and tracked a 100k mile NSX with zero issues. As I'm sure you're well aware, 90's and early 00's Hondas are great machines.

If you're willing to take a road trip for the car you should be able to find a well worn rough around the edges S2K in the $8-9k range.

Plus the S2K would be a lot better out of the box than some of your other choices. Put some sticky rubber and good pads on and go to town.

The s2k shouldn't take much many to get ready for the track.

You folks commenting on BMW parts and reliablity: have you owned one or shopped for parts?

An E36 M3 is tremendously reliable mechanically, and parts are cheaper than most would believe. Find a ratty E36 M3, re-bush it, get decent dampers and tires, and enjoy.

Or: bewsted Miata, and get over your hang up. I took my wife out in ours a couple weeks ago...checked her purse, and yup: still had my boys. ;)

The s2k shouldn't take much many to get ready for the track.

What about an FC RX7 or an early RX8 if you are thinking rotary?

E36 of any persuasion is tempting but typical euro parts costs.

Early Nissan SE-R's can be an outright blast too, Don't be afraid to broaden your horizons

5.0. EFI, Tremec and RX7 rear end

grunt grunt

[URL=http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/aussiesmg/RX50/MVI_0579.mp4][/URL]

Like Nathan above mentioned, an e36 M3 is very cheap to own. Parts are, many times, cheaper than their Miata counterparts (I own both).

I personally would go with a '96-'99 M3, avoid the '95s if possible.

You dont want to get an S2000 if your budget is $10k. A hardtop for an S2000 goes for around $3000, not that you need one, but someone asked above.

Slippery wrote: You dont want to get an S2000 if your budget is $10k.

Anything further on why you feel this way? I love details.

I think a real consideration for all options is that if I'm starting track life at over 100k miles, a new clutch is likely to be in the near future (unless its already been replaced obviously). I really love the 951 but that's a pricey clutch! I guess I did get spoiled with my Mustang, haha.

Thanks for all the responses. All appreciated. I'm actually surprised how much love the S2K has gotten here.

Opinions on a WRX? Not sure what they go for.

Cheers

icaneat50eggs wrote: The s2k shouldn't take much many to get ready for the track.

As I mentioned, ignoring brake lines, flush, fresh rotors and pads.................................you still need safety equipment!

Even cheap seats, harnesses and a roll bar will eat up another $1500 minimum, and that's for a Miata........can you buy a trackworthy roll bar for an S2K for $500 like you can for a Miata?

But this comes down to a person's risk level. I won't go on track in a car without proper safety equipment (roll bar, seats, harnesses).

Add in what I mentioned before and it seems as though you'd have to find a $6500 S2K.

I like safe, reliable cars that don't have marginal brakes.

z31maniac wrote: Even cheap seats, harnesses and a roll bar will eat up another $1500 minimum, and that's for a Miata........can you buy a trackworthy roll bar for an S2K for $500 like you can for a Miata?

I don't recommend this, but many track-day groups will allow S2000s with the stock rollover protection.

I think its a little out of the price range, but if you can find one in under 10k with about $2k left for wheels, tires, and a bigger front bar... do it.

Their motors are very reliable.

These threads always start the same way. Everyone wants a street car to use on the track. The irony is at the beginning of the HPDE experience a Honda Odyssey will do fine. Once you have done an HPDE or two or three, it will be approaching that point where you can make a choice. I think it may be time to add another answer to the board. When you haven't done an HPDE the answer is whatever you are driving at the time will be fine. The answer after you have done one or two HPDEs depends on what you want to do after the first hit of crack (track.). If you can ignore the siren's song, keep driving whatever you have for the street. If you cannot ignore the siren, please get a trailer and any of the standard answers. OR, get a built race car and save yourself thousands vs building one yourself.

Remember that if you can hold off on having the right car when you start HPDE you will have more money to buy the right car once you know more about the HPDE experience. You could save thousands buy buying the built race car after your first several events and be prepared to climb the ladder to comp school. If you prefer to build it yourself and you enjoy spending more money that avenue is always available.

This past weekend I worked on the quintessential cheap track car, a $2000 miata that had an upgraded suspension, clutch, flywheel, header and exhaust. The passenger front shock is leaking, the soft top is dead but the owner bought a good hardtop for $1k. The passenger side front caliper refused to be bled and needed some cleaning (and eventual replacement of the bleed screw.) We installed new brake pads (Hawk DTC 60s) and bled the system. The ball joint boots are torn in the front, both upper and lower, and both sides. The outer tire rod end boots are torn on both sides. The diff appears to either be leaking or was leaking previously out of the snout.

All the hubs appeared to be OK, but the car will need new extended length studs at some point as it is still running stock studs. It also needs an alignment. We spent lots of time beating the beejesus out of fender lips to roll the fenders out of the way and the car was the recepient of used RA1s and new wheels from tire rack , which were 25mm offset TR motorsports wheels.

This is a solid car and the above is the list to make it truly track capable. The torn boots can be replaced later, but they do need to be done before long. Some of the mods move the car away from a standard race group like spec miata and would have to be replaced if the owner decided to go that route.

aussiesmg wrote: 5.0. EFI, Tremec and RX7 rear end grunt grunt [/URL]

That car makes me feel giddy just looking at it... Aussie, will the intake clear the stock hood?

I'll say +1 mattm's suggestion of driving whatever you have for the first few events. If you don't have any prior track experience you're not even going to get all the performance out of a grocery getter at first. If you're new to this get plenty of sim experience to speed things up.

As for a WRX, again I don't know what they go for...they're a bit complicated but pretty reliable and parts aren't too expensive, but if you want to go with a car of that style, the Evo is more track-oriented (especially the MR variant), the WRX is better for actual loose/bad surface rally-style driving.

The Evos however are even more complicated (starting from about the Evo 7...evos 7-9 are the best ones though) and probably not quite as reliable. Parts costs are in the same ballpark.

Both are pretty hard on consumables BTW. A Miata or S2k will be light on consumables.

noddaz wrote:

aussiesmg wrote: 5.0. EFI, Tremec and RX7 rear end grunt grunt [/URL]

That car makes me feel giddy just looking at it... Aussie, will the intake clear the stock hood?

No intake spacer is just a tiny bit too tall, but this works and matches the body creases in the hood perfectly

Build thread

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/rx50-project/33672/page1/

mattm wrote: When you haven't done an HPDE the answer is whatever you are driving at the time will be fine.

Alright boys, look for me at the next NASA event. I'll be in the 4x4 crew cab F150. The uphill esses should be fun, haha.

Kidding aside, I do agree with your message. I think my goal at the moment is a track friendly street car. Don't want to go crazy with mods (which is my nature). Work my way through the HPDE levels and then reassess my goals. Hopefully at that point I'll have a better handle on how often I can truly get to the track and if I'd get my monies worth from a dedicated track car.

z31maniac wrote:

Matt B wrote: I'd go with the S2K, with a E36 M3 as a second choice. The S2K would be the easy button, but a bit pricier. The M3 will require more hands-on maintenance, but I don't necessarily think it'll be that expensive if you go aftermarket. While the Miata is the obvious budget choice, if you don't dig 'em then don't worry about it.

Is $10k going to be enough to buy an S2K, add safety equipment and proper brakes?

Depends on the S2K of course. BTW prices are inflated right now, because summer. I've seen plenty of S2Ks south of $8K, but they mostly show up in the colder months. Also, all you really need are better pads and maybe a roll bar. No reason to go crazy. The car is already pretty capable.

That said, if a Miata just isn't the OP's bag and he want's at least a little grunt, any six cylinder E36 is probably the best budget option. Buy-in is below $5K, do some normal maintenance to the bushings and cooling system, add your track parts, then go to town. You'd be well below $10K, enough that you'd have all your entry fees paid for as well.

I would vote for a FC (2nd gen RX-7) with an LSX. You should be able to find one for under $10k pretty easily.

One of the drivers on our Chump/Lemons team has a L33 5.3 in his backed by a T-5. Puts down 300rwhp and 325ish tq with just an LS6 intake, 5.0 fox body longtubes with LS flanges on it on an 87 octane tune. He is a good driver but the car just works well for track use.

This option gives you a body style you like, a disposable shell if you wreck it and the power you still want.

bigmackloud wrote:

Slippery wrote: You dont want to get an S2000 if your budget is $10k.

Anything further on why you feel this way? I love details. I think a real consideration for all options is that if I'm starting track life at over 100k miles, a new clutch is likely to be in the near future (unless its already been replaced obviously). I really love the 951 but that's a pricey clutch! I guess I did get spoiled with my Mustang, haha. Thanks for all the responses. All appreciated. I'm actually surprised how much love the S2K has gotten here.

Tires $750 Brake pads $400 Rotors $ 200 Engine/tranny/diff/brake fluids $100

If its an AP1 then you would want to swap to AP2 valve retainers for track use = more money.

Total $1450

$10000 - $1450 = $8550 for a car in excellent mechanical condition.

I don't think you can find that car. I also have an S2000 and follow prices closely.

I think for $7000 you can find a very good e36 M3 for track use. Certainly better than any $7000 S2000.

Kidding aside, I do agree with your message. I think my goal at the moment is a track friendly street car. Don't want to go crazy with mods (which is my nature). Work my way through the HPDE levels and then reassess my goals. Hopefully at that point I'll have a better handle on how often I can truly get to the track and if I'd get my monies worth from a dedicated track car.

Wise words. I'd say that at first you want a predictable car more than a fast one. A fast car can lull you into thinking that you're better than you really are. But to learn, you need a baseline to build from. That's one of the reasons that Miatas are so popular - they have no bad habits, they rarely break, they're easy on consumables, and they can be made very fast with the right mods.