midknight
midknight Reader
4/23/13 10:04 a.m.

Hi all,

Looking to get started on a bodywork and paint project. I've watched a ton of you tube videos and while I've learned a lot on procedure and technique, I'm still a little confused as to how much sanding and which grit to use before painting. I've seen people shooting paint after block sanding with anywhere from 600 to 1000 grit sandpaper. Also, the pics are never close enough to make out the brand of sandpaper. I'm using a red 97 ek Civic to learn on. Paint is crazed all over. Was going to dry sand it. Then a coat of high build primer/sealer. Block sand. Then shoot with an HVLP harbor freight sprayer. Obviously not going for a high end result, but with enough coats, flatting with the grit you all recommend between coats, and maybe a clear on top, I can get a decent result. So with all that being said, I seek the wisdom of the great collective as to: Which grit for initial sanding; which grit for block sanding after applying the high build primer; Do you sand between coats and if so, which grit. Also, and back to the topic, do you have a favorite brand/type of sandpaper and an supplier with good prices? Thanks, Ps. Anybody use the Trinity Paints advertised in abundance on Ebay?

Wayne

Teh E36 M3
Teh E36 M3 Dork
4/23/13 10:46 a.m.

I've been happy with lehigh valley abrasives, but it was for flap discs and belts rather than bodywork. For bodywork, you really can't go wrong with 3m products.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
4/23/13 10:52 a.m.

I've used 3M, it works well but can be a bit spendy. I also like Gator paper- you can find it at some ACE or True Value stores. My wife uses the heck out of some Gator for her work.

I'm self-learning body work myself right now. So far I like hand block sanding over mechanized means, though I haven't tried any of the hi-buck professional equipment (being a relatively low-buck kindof guy). 60-80 grit makes short work of material removal, 220 seems to do well for filler shaping, 400 before primer, 600 in between coats of primer, 800 to 1000 before paint, 1000 to 1500 between coats of paint and up to 2000 for final wet sanding. YMMV.

kpm
kpm Reader
4/23/13 12:52 p.m.

Carborundum sandpaper. Same company makes Norton paper and is usually cheaper.

Volvo is spot on with grits per use.

Cotton
Cotton SuperDork
4/23/13 1:00 p.m.

I'm testing between 3m dry, 3m Trizact (damp), norton dry ice, and Eagle abrasives yellow disk and buflex system now. This is all for repair and finish sanding after laying down clear. So far I have found I'm a huge fan of dry finish sanding and the eagle abrasives stuff is the standout in that area. I like the norton, but it has a tendancy to pigtail. The regular 3m is decent, but the eagle seems to last longer and is a little cheaper. the trizact system is very popular, but has to be used damp, and is very hard to tell when it stops cutting. I plan to lay down more clear this weekend and do a little more testing.

FYI I don't generally sand my basecoats before clears....and I would never sand a metallic or pearl before clear without shooting more color. In the past, if I've had to make a repair to the base on a metallic or pearl car, I've shot more color to blend.

midknight
midknight Reader
4/23/13 3:56 p.m.

Thanks for the info guys. I've noticed some brands note that they are made of aluminum oxide. Is this any different that regular sandpaper or is that just a marketing statement. Anybody use emery as sandpaper?

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