FINALLY, I got a killer deal! also Miata Questions

I finally stumbled onto a killer automotive deal.  I have long been amazed and envious of some of the reported buys here.

Saturday I picked upa OEM miata hardtop, with the 1994 C package car with it, for $350!  The engine is in the trunk, but the guy I bought it from had torn it compeltely down, and started the rebuilding process.  He replaced all the bearings, had it bored 20 over, and installed new pistons.  He had also thoroughly cleaned all the engine pieces, they are totally grease and grime free.  I consider that worth the cost of the car! 

Now to the questions.  The car has the tan leather interior/roof which I believe means it's a C package.  It's an auto, is it for sure it has the limited slip?    I thought I read that the automatic may mean it doesn't.  is the rear end ratio different than a manual?

the only info I have for the pistons is "they are from the DNJ kit, I think they are -.7cc"  it looks like these are fleabay pistons, anyone know anything about them?  how would they hold up to forced induction, and how do I figure out what compression ratio I'd have with these? 

Since I will be adding boost to it, I'm going to take a step back and upgrade the rods.  Usually I just call flyin miata, but there cheapest rod set is nearing a grand.  Is there anything cheaper that will handle a 220-240 HP forced induction setup?

Finally, somewhere I saw someone did an expansive write up of head work for a miata and what kind of power gains you got from various things (porting, bigger valves, etc) but I can't find it now.  I think it might have been on FM's site.... anyone remember seeing this?

IIRC none of the autos got the LSD, but I'm sure someone who knows these cars will be along shortly.

Regarding the rods - I think for your power goals, what you're looking for are stock rods in good condition.

That is a ridiculous deal.

None of the autos had limited slips. It's a 4.10 rear, though.

Our cheapest rod set is still less expensive than having to rebuild an engine because you broke a rod - but they are over-spec'd for your use. You can use stock rods without any concern. You also don't want to go too low on compression or you'll build a doggy engine without the high power you would usually get for that tradeoff. At 220-240 rwhp, you can happily run 9:1 and I'd be willing to do 10:1 in order to spool that turbo up asap.

We don't have a writeup like you describe on our site. The actual power gains will depend on how much boost you're ramming through there, but if you're not sure do everything