Finally my turn for a "Learn me" / "What car" thread

So the Maxima has reached the point where I'm tired of putting money into it. Latest thing is it not starting, cranks fine but no fire. Checked the fuel pump, fine, replaced fuel filter and FPR, no dice. Could be bad coils, ignition switch, or 12 other things....

Sooooo...

I'm looking for a replacement. Living in SW Ohio and being my DD it's got to be able to handle snow, preferably seat 4 in a pinch (2 doors are fine) and I'd prefer a manual transmission although that isn't a deal breaker. Budget is in flux at the moment but let's go with $8-10k out the door for now (may go up).

Now the learn me part - I'm looking at 2 somewhat different vehicles at the moment.

1. Acura RSX Type-S
2. BMW E36/46 coupes

What can the collective tell me about each? Pros/Cons, things to watch out for, specific years or models to look for (e.g. 330Ci ZHP) or avoid? What's "high mileage" for these models? Other than cooling system and window regulators, anything else about the Bimmers to look out for?

Feel free to share Cincinnati/Dayton/Columbus C-List links as well!

fix maxima

I'd get a second gen Camaro. I did it in the snow, and I sat six in a pinch. For 8K you've got yourself an awesome example.

DD = snow

Acura, or BMW.... keep looking

had an 04 rsx type-s for a while. they will never be as good as they are on paper, unfortunately because honda/acura cheaped out on the abs system, which means a little nimble, lowish power car needs to be used on long, sweeping courses because of the 3-channel abs system. two sensors, one for each rear tire, only one actuator, for both rear tires. this means, when you're trail braking nicely deep into a tight corner, and lift the inside rear tire, it locks up, the ABS sees this, and shuts off both rear brakes. always made the car go from rotating nicely to pushing mid-corner.

that said, if you're not going to auto-x it, they are great fun little cars to drive at 7/10ths with long legs and plenty of modding options. if i had kept mine, i was leaning in the direction of 9000+ rpm screamer build. if you're going to spin it over stock, look for an 03-up, as they had a bit higher rated valvetrain from the factory, can't remember which, one had double valvesprings, the other, single. supposedly the stock valvetrain was supposed to be good to 8900 rpm, and the stock bottom end good to 9500, both well beyond the breathing capabilities of the stock intake

belteshazzar wrote: fix maxima

for unknown $$$ and still have a 12-13 year old car with 175k+ miles on it and visible signs of self-lightening? I know that's the easy internet answer but I've been doing that for a couple of years now but it no longer makes financial sense - trust me.

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ctd/2357587273.html auto advice manual advice http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ctd/2357587273.html http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=299035065&dealer_id=73939&car_year=2003&systime=&doors=&model=MAZDA6&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1304353942770&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=&sownerid=100040656&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=n&make2=&certified=&engine=6+Cylinder&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=Manual&default_sort=&max_mileage=&color=&address=45177&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=9000&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=27&standard=false http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=292348639&dealer_id=65953283&car_year=2005&systime=&doors=&model=MAZDA6&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1304353942770&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=&sownerid=100040656&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=n&make2=&certified=&engine=6+Cylinder&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=Manual&default_sort=&max_mileage=&color=&address=45177&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=9000&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=21&standard=false this one is really an s..... but eh who cares good price and my last advice http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=298322648&dealer_id=66219601&car_year=2003&systime=&doors=&model=MAZDA6&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1304353942770&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=&sownerid=100040656&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=n&make2=&certified=&engine=6+Cylinder&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=Manual&default_sort=&max_mileage=&color=&address=45177&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=9000&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=57&standard=false do not buy a honda. and get a mazda. 3's can be had for that price type too.

mazda 3's http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=293152109&dealer_id=65230641&car_year=2004&systime=&doors=&model=MAZDA3&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1304354159209&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=&sownerid=100040656&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=n&make2=&certified=&engine=4+Cylinder&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=Manual&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=45177&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=9000&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=36&standard=false

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=298464663&dealer_id=55604493&car_year=2005&systime=&doors=&model=MAZDA3&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1304354159209&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=&sownerid=100040656&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=n&make2=&certified=&engine=4+Cylinder&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=Manual&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=45177&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=9000&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=103&standard=false

Like this one http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2353856810.html

Or here

http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2302909776.html

I see no problems with this plan.

V6 5 spd Altima - they are out there if you look and are patient.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Katy, I've thought about the 6 (being a former 2.5/5-spd Contour SE Sport owner) but just am not 100% sold on the idea yet for whatever reason, maybe just wanting to try something different. Now if a manual Sport wagon fell into my lap that would be different!

What about some info on my original two choices above? Finding BMW info on here is easy enough but I didn't see a whole lot on the RSX.

honda/acura cheaped out on the abs system, which means a little nimble, lowish power car needs to be used on long, sweeping courses because of the 3-channel abs system. two sensors, one for each rear tire, only one actuator, for both rear tires. this means, when you're trail braking nicely deep into a tight corner, and lift the inside rear tire, it locks up, the ABS sees this, and shuts off both rear brakes. always made the car go from rotating nicely to pushing mid-corner.

I used to pull the ABS fuse on my old Avenger when autox'ing because i didnt like how it acted. Definitely fixed that problem. For free. Easily. Or get fancy and wire a switch to a relay for that circuit.

i will say the 6 is alot like the contours were. except better balance at the limit. im very anti honda but that just cause i used to have a honda tuning shop behind my shop and i could never get piece and quiet without having to listen to that annoying as hell buzz from a honda 4

Turbo Volvo wagon with a stick! Take your pick: 740, 940, 240, 850! V70r?

oldeskewltoy wrote: DD = snow Acura, or BMW.... keep looking

They call 'em snow tires.

My e36 M3 was fantastic in the snow, I would definitely recommend a ZHP they are excellent cars! I wouldn't bother buying an Acura, Honda's are much cheaper.

Given that this is a DD, I have to agree with mazda 6 or mazda 3. Given your budget, you are not going to get the greatest rsx or e46. As for the rsx, I find 06+ civic si's to be going for similar money as they seem like better cars. For the e46, I prefer the 325/328 cars to minimize the gadgetry. A 3 series without idrive and the other electronic toys is infinitely less problematic. However, you can easily get an 05+ mazda 6 with a v6 and a stick for your budget with less than 100k miles. The mazda 3 tends to hold its value a bit better, but you can get loaded 2.3 hatches for that price now. Either would be my choice for DD over the two you mentioned. If you are going coupe though, 05+ mustangs are generally in better shape than either of these two for similar money.

I found a Forester XT at the upper end of my range but it is an auto - no manual XT's to be found anywhere locally from my quick search.

Does the auto kill all the fun?

Joshua wrote:

oldeskewltoy wrote: DD = snow Acura, or BMW.... keep looking

They call 'em snow tires. My e36 M3 was fantastic in the snow, I would definitely recommend a ZHP they are excellent cars! I wouldn't bother buying an Acura, Honda's are much cheaper.

I'll second that - our E36 328i and E46 touring are both fantastic in snow with good winter rubber. They are also hilariously entertaining with the stability control off, yet the stability control isn't irritating when on....and it works.

You can definately get a loaded 3 with low miles in your price range. Very fun car for what it is.

my dad just picked up a loaded 04 3S sedan with 38k miles from a private seller for $9k.

from poking around under the hood a little, seems like there is a lot of space to work in there for the most part and simple enough to do most of your own work on.

failboat wrote: You can definately get a loaded 3 with low miles in your price range. Very fun car for what it is. my dad just picked up a loaded 04 3S sedan with 38k miles from a private seller for $9k. from poking around under the hood a little, seems like there is a lot of space to work in there for the most part and simple enough to do most of your own work on.

arent all cars easy enough to do all the work on?

KATYB wrote:

failboat wrote: You can definately get a loaded 3 with low miles in your price range. Very fun car for what it is. my dad just picked up a loaded 04 3S sedan with 38k miles from a private seller for $9k. from poking around under the hood a little, seems like there is a lot of space to work in there for the most part and simple enough to do most of your own work on.

arent all cars easy enough to do all the work on?

You're totally welcome at my house the next time I have to do the timing belt on my wife's PT Cruiser.

failboat wrote: You can definately get a loaded 3 with low miles in your price range. Very fun car for what it is. my dad just picked up a loaded 04 3S sedan with 38k miles from a private seller for $9k. from poking around under the hood a little, seems like there is a lot of space to work in there for the most part and simple enough to do most of your own work on.

Mine didn't have any traction/stability/ABS so I don't know about any of that!

tuna ok... ill admit that one is a lil bit of a pita takes a good 4 to 5 hours.

KATYB wrote: tuna ok... ill admit that one is a lil bit of a pita takes a good 4 to 5 hours.

And then you can come finish the bodywork on my 72 GMC. Those two jobs, in reverse order, have taken longer than any other single job on a car for me. The heater core on the Brick was tied for second, come to think about it.

Admittedly, the bodywork doesn't have much to do with how easy it is to work on, also the phrase "Honey, while you sleep I am going to go in the garage to work on my truck with a girl I met on the internet" would not work out well.