I have some plugs and a coil, tell ne how.
Rather GRM it than drop ~$200.
SPDT switch in the wire that goes from the distributor to the ignition coil so it allows you switch from the running ignition coil to the flamethrower coil.
HT lead from the flamethrower coil to the spark plug mounted in the tailpipe.
With the engine running use the throttle to get the rpm up so the motor doesn't stall, flip the switch to the other coil.
This will shut down the ignition on the engine and turn on the ignition to the flamethrower. The freewheeling engine will pump unburned fuel into the exhaust which will be lit by the plug in the tail pipe. It can help to pump the pedal or work the choke to get raw fuel into the exhaust.
Flip the switch back before the engine stalls completely.
Be aware, there is a good chance when you turn the engine back on, the unburnt fuel in the mufflers will light off and burst the seams on the mufflers. Best to have straight pipes or glasspacks.
Flamethrowers won't work on cars with cats or modern ignition.
Be sure to get down with your rockasilly bad self, cuff your pants and have a pack of smokes tucked in your shirt sleeves.
914Driver said:I have some plugs and a coil, tell ne how.
Rather GRM it than drop ~$200.
I can’t help but feel somewhat responsible for this query... here is a link to a propane powered diy install-
https://itstillruns.com/inject-propane-exhaust-12157397.html
ShawnG said:SPDT switch in the wire that goes from the distributor to the ignition coil so it allows you switch from the running ignition coil to the flamethrower coil.
HT lead from the flamethrower coil to the spark plug mounted in the tailpipe.
With the engine running use the throttle to get the rpm up so the motor doesn't stall, flip the switch to the other coil.
This will shut down the ignition on the engine and turn on the ignition to the flamethrower. The freewheeling engine will pump unburned fuel into the exhaust which will be lit by the plug in the tail pipe. It can help to pump the pedal or work the choke to get raw fuel into the exhaust.
Flip the switch back before the engine stalls completely.
Be aware, there is a good chance when you turn the engine back on, the unburnt fuel in the mufflers will light off and burst the seams on the mufflers. Best to have straight pipes or glasspacks.
Flamethrowers won't work on cars with cats or modern ignition.
Be sure to get down with your rockasilly bad self, cuff your pants and have a pack of smokes tucked in your shirt sleeves.
This. I had a '39 Dodge D11 coupe that I had flame throwers installed on. This is exactly how it was done, and yes you will stall the engine if you don't flip the swtich back fast enough. It'll also destroy any mufflers you have.
There are kits you can get for modern ignition cars, but they have their own fuel source you mount in the trunk..which as we all know is a really safe idea.
Mazda rotary, deceleration fuel cutoff, excessive acceleration enrichment, and a short collector exhaust system.
Or, a completely stock pre-81 emissions package.
You need the DFCO (or thermal reactor and air pump) to fill the exhaust system with hot oxygen, you see. Then when you add fuel, you remove ALL the birds from under bridges when you activate it.
I used to do this for fun.
Add an injector and pump? Trying to think of a less damaging way. And with it being an elcsmino, the extra 1 gallon fuel cell foesnt concern me.
Rather not mess with the engine coil, what about an external coil and power supply just for the purpose of flaming? One coil per pipe or can one coil plug into two spark plugs?
Dan
One coil per pipe.
You need to shut down spark to the engine somehow so you don't burn the fuel intended for the flamethrower.
You could use a Model T Ford buzz coil on a switch to fire the plugs constantly as well. There are plastic-bodied buzz coils that will work on 12V. They were intended for railway machinery but the T guys use them as well.
This is all a bit silly, isn't it?
Yep. My brain is whizzing a buck eighty but my hands are tied by obligations; no outlet for creativity.
This is all pretty much mental masturbation, new (to me) car that likely has a list of things that should be done before reinventing the flame thrower.
Dan
Knurled. said:
Or, a completely stock pre-81 emissions package.
You need the DFCO (or thermal reactor and air pump) to fill the exhaust system with hot oxygen, you see. Then when you add fuel, you remove ALL the birds from under bridges when you activate it.
I used to do this for fun.
Or get all the cops on a stakeout running. A.couple of my friends had contests with a R100 and RX3.
Knurled. said:Mazda rotary, deceleration fuel cutoff, excessive acceleration enrichment, and a short collector exhaust system.
Or, a completely stock pre-81 emissions package.
You need the DFCO (or thermal reactor and air pump) to fill the exhaust system with hot oxygen, you see. Then when you add fuel, you remove ALL the birds from under bridges when you activate it.
I used to do this for fun.
First car was an '83 with a Cherry Bomb. A co-worker's Regal with an over sensitive alarm was my target. As long as I was within twenty feet, easy peasy.
If you do this, remember to change your oil more frequently. Like a lot. The unburnt gas ends up in the oil and begins to dilute it.
ShawnG said:One coil per pipe.
You need to shut down spark to the engine somehow so you don't burn the fuel intended for the flamethrower.
You could use a Model T Ford buzz coil on a switch to fire the plugs constantly as well. There are plastic-bodied buzz coils that will work on 12V. They were intended for railway machinery but the T guys use them as well.
This is all a bit silly, isn't it?
You get the fuel from pulling the choke, I thought. And, I assume, a nice leak in the exhaust upstream from the spark plug so it can get oxygen.
I've seen it done both ways, although the fast idle and simultaneous spark cut/buzzbox engagement seems to be the easiest done from outside the car.
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